1. right on, COLD. Were the proper lash pads used. Schneider usually provides the right ones, good stuff.

2. Timing chain adjustment? Are you referring to the cam sprocket setting? On a performance cam like you have, I like to use hole #2 .

Static timing at 10* BTDC is good to start with. Try to get 36* BTDC @ 2,800, the idle timing is what it will be, leave it alone, if it starts drive it. You can't go fast at idle.

What carbs do you have?

 

1. right on, COLD. Were the proper lash pads used. Schneider usually provides the right ones, good stuff.

2. Timing chain adjustment? Are you referring to the cam sprocket setting? On a performance cam like you have, I like to use hole #2 .

Static timing at 10* BTDC is good to start with. Try to get 36* BTDC @ 2,800, the idle timing is what it will be, leave it alone, if it starts drive it. You can't go fast at idle.

What carbs do you have?

I purchased the lashpads kit from Schneider! .175 thickpads


I want to adjust the time chain in a way i can have the smoothest idle possible. The carbs i have are Hitachi SU Carbs 3 screws fully remanufactured by Z therapy.


Besides of the above, i will like to mention that i am dealing with a hesitation problem once realeasing the clutch and engaging 1st gear. I am experiencing a back and forth hesitation. Could i be using wrong spark plugs (NGK BP6ES)? I have a pertronix ignitor installed.

 

Well, duh, that's the order 510doc wrote it.

 

Thanks Stone, timing it by ear, close but no cigars, get it right with a light and be happy OR get an advancing timing light of your own!

 

"I have both carbs set to 3.5 turns and i am still having a back and forth motion after stepping on the gas and releasing the pedal before reaching 3000 RPM. "

It is IMPOSSIBLE to specify anything other than a starting point using 'turns'... that is not 'set it here and run' -- it doesn't work like that.

You need to decide if you want to run rich best or lean best, and determine optimal setting from there. This will be done disabling one carb and running on three cylinders until you get best performance, then repeating with the other carb.

As for the original comment of 'back and forth motion' learn to properly drive the vehicle. Sounds like the classic case of driving in too high a gear for the speed traveled and not having the engine in it's proper operating range which is generally from 3,000 to 5,000 rpms... I should start calling this 'camshaft lag' as when it happens in a turbocharged car it's called 'turbo lag'...

Downshift and try again.

 

Tony,


The problem shows up after leaving the garage. I step on the cluth, shift first. once releasing the clutch and stepping on the gas, the car starts shaking back and forth. If i step hard or real soft in the pedal it does not happen. It did not presented this problem with the former Far 311 Race Cam (4,500 to 8500 RPM). Once the car overcomes 2nd shift, the problem is gone.


Timing adjustment? I even raised both idle mixture knobs to 5 turns and the problem is still there! So its not a lack of gas problem! The Fuel pump pressure is 3 PSI.

 

I see a lot of room for error here. here are some important things you cannot ignore as you go forward:
If you have to tell your "mechanic" to time the car with a light instead of "by ear", then you need to get a real mechanic.
Valve lash is set cold for the sole purpose of getting the car running well enough to warm it up. Then it is done again with a hot engine.
The only way to determine if you have the correct size lash pads is to check the wipe pattern for each and every valve. This must be done before the engine is run. failure to do this can lead to rapid destruction of the cam and rockers.
You cannot properly tune the carbs until proper valve train adjustments (wipe patterns and lash settings) have been done.
If your mechanic is not checking these things, he's incompetent. He says you have burned valves? How did he determine this?