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How to prevent rust on a 280z?

11K views 20 replies 15 participants last post by  cgsheen  
#1 ·
Im about to buy a 280z that was originally from California (I live in New York). It has really minimal rust from what I could see. There was a paint bubble and some surface rust, but i didn't see any rust underneath the car. I'm wondering what the best way is to keep the car from rusting over this winter. I was thinking of spraying some rubber undercoating in the spots where Z's are known to rust. Does anyone know any other cost effective ways to protect from road salt? I don't have much time before the first snow.
 
#2 ·
#10 ·
#4 ·
That's where your problem lies: "cost effective" + "preventing rust on a 280Z"... That's an equation that doesn't usually balance - unless you're in Arizona.
 
#5 ·
Don't drive it in Salt-Spray Conditions.

Park it and drive a "winter car" like every other miserable SOB does in The Rust Belt.
 
#7 ·
If you are planning on fixing the rust (cutting out the bad areas and replacing with new metal) in the next couple years do not use POR15. It makes welding a bitch. Use a spray on rust converter that uses phosphoric acid and/or tannins. That will significantly slow down any further rusting and is easy to remove to do a correct rust repair.
 
#11 ·
POR-15 goes a LOT farther than you think it will. If you end up using it, start with a quart - you may not need much more than that. Be sure to read the POR-15 application guides. It is NOT your typical paint product.

I'm not sure how deep you were thinking of getting into this, but usually you'd take pretty much everything else off the metal before you POR-15. Then you cover it with something else... (also, I wouldn't ignore John Coffey's advice..,)
 
#12 ·
So i did end up using the por-15 and it came out good so far. Some advice for others who are going to paint it on. Make sure you can get under your car with a lot of arm room, this will make it a lot easier. Also, i didnt do this but if you have the time and patience you should take out the tranny, exhaust and gas tank so you can make sure you get everything.
 
#13 ·
POR-15 remains a temporary solution for me. Don't gloss over those paint bubbles and surface rust. Depending on where the areas are, you could have more of a problem on your hands than you realize.

Not trying to be too negative, just keep your eyes fully open when going into rust repair.
 
#17 ·
The only way you'll avoid rust is to not drive the car in the winter. You can paint the underside of the car but then it will rust out at the lower hatch are, around the gas cap, under the battery tray, under the SS trim around the windows, along the lower edge of the doors, etc, etc, etc. These cares are EXTREMELY rust prone. That's why you have to go to the SW to find one. Driving them in the winter is why none have survived in the NE.
 
#18 ·
Well
(1) bondo over rust accomplishes nothing but hiding the rust that will develop. POR-15/ Chassis Saver/ Rust Stop will seal the rust after it has been cleaned as best you can.

(2) If there are small rust bubbles, that is your next rust thru and no amount of POR over the top will prevent it unless you scrape away any paint etc into clean metal.

(3) Rustoleum makes a rubberized undercoat that will protect it but make sure you get the $8 can and not the $3 can. The cheap can will never dry, the other can be painted.

(4) When I got my car out of CA...it turned out it originated in Wisconsin. The guy there sprayed it inside and out with a substance I call snot. It is translucent and somewhat rubbery. Where he sprayed, it never rusted. But behind the bumper side trim panels, it looked like it was dredged up from the pacific. So one key is to wash it off regularly.
 
#21 ·
:laugh