http://www.datsunstore.com/high-output-alternator-p-1.html

 

Most of the high amp Nissan alternators require a pulley change, from the ribbed belt pulley to the older-style v-belt pulley. It can require some finagling to get a V-belt pulley that fits and then to get it shimmed out to the right location for alignment. The Maxima 90 amp alternator is one example, the case bolts on but the pulley needs work.

One thing to consider is that the quality of the rebuilt auto store alternators has a history of being very bad. That's why they give a lifetime guarantee. Cheaper for them to sell crap and keep replacing it than to rebuild the quality in to the part. Sounds harsh but that seems to be what they're doing. Qwest probably gets their parts from the same giant rebuilding center in Asia.

 

I was referring to the Nissan Quest.

I considered the Z Specialties alt, but the price is a bit crazy to me. Reading the post from Ratsun, all that is required to run the KA alt is a rewire of the connector. Not to mention a NEW OEM alt. is cheaper than the Z Specialties alt. by about $100. The Quest part was about the same cost as the Z Specialties part.

Anyone have words on the GM alt?

 

Thought you meant a $99 alternator.

You'll still need a pulley change. There's a few people around who forget to mention that when they say "bolt on".

I've looked at the GM CS130 option and it's not bolt-on. Needs bracket work and many people run it as a one-wire alt, which is a primitive way to make it work. No charge light and you have to rev it to get it started. It get's the job done though.

Good luck. The Zspecialties alt. is the only true "bolt-on", belt up, and plug in alternator amperage upgrade that I've seen, beside the 70 amp turbo alternator which is NLA.

Many people take their stock alternator to a rebuild shop and have them rebuild it to higher output. If you can find a shop that can do it, that might be an easy option.

 

Personally, I consider nothing more than a pulley swap a "bolt-in." When I have to start making brackets and crap that's when I get a little disinterested.

I called up a local shop, he said to drop it off with him. When I told him I was looking for about 70 amps at idle he replied with, "I'll see what I can do, I love a challenge." Still looking at the GM alt, seems like you don't have to wire it as a one wire. You just need the new pigtail.

 

Looks like the current upgrade of choice is alternator spec'd for a '91 Dodge Monaco. Bolts right in, you just need a GM V pulley, which any decent shop should carry. Hybrdz link.

Scored a pulley from a local Carquest for free and a new alternator is on its way to my local NAPA. Always had good luck with the new NAPA alternators.

 

http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/page26.html

here's a little info for you.

 

Thanks for that, lots of good info. Funny thing to note, I added a cable to the starter when I got the car, I thought it was missing. Didn't know it was never there from the factory!

 

Installed the new Monaco alternator last night, it definitely bolts in, but I had to grind about 1/8" off the bottom of the adjuster bracket for it to clear the alt. frame. No problems with the lower mount. Make sure you get a pulley that is about 2". The first one I used was about 2.75", and I had undercharging at idle.

It's charging at 14.7 volts. This is with my stereo up to the point where it hurts my ears, wipers on, a/c on full blast, map light on, all park lights on, high beams on, and stop lights on. I even tried rolling my windows up and down at the same time to "brown out" the system, but all is good!

I guess it doesn't fit the needs for those that want 100% plug-and-play, but it physically bolts in and I didn't have to cut any factory wiring.

 

It's charging at 14.7 volts. This is with my stereo up to the point where it hurts my ears, wipers on, a/c on full blast, map light on, all park lights on, high beams on, and stop lights on. I even tried rolling my windows up and down at the same time to "brown out" the system, but all is good!

For the record, what's your idle RPM while all of this happening. This is at idle right? Looks promising.

 

My idle is 900 rpm in gear for proper vacuum with my cam.

 

Just to be sure - your new alternator puts out 14.7 volts at 900 RPM with everything that you described turned on and drawing amps.

Sorry to keep asking, but that is the most important reason to do an alternator swap, output at idle speed, and you haven't said the two things together, just inferred it. I just want to be sure that that's what you're saying. Sitting at the stop light in the rain on a hot muggy night with the AC and headlights on, and the amp making your ears bleed, and the engine idling at 900 RPM, you will have no worries about battery charge because the alternator is putting out 14.7 volts.

 

That's right. 900rpm, voltage at 14.7 across the battery.

 

Does the voltage go up at higher RPM, or is it well regulated?

 

At about 3500 rpm, voltage SKYROCKETED!

To 14.8 volts. Overall, I'm happy with the alternator. The rest of my car, on the other hand...

 

It does sound like a winner to me.