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240z 1973 car ran now dead - no electric at all

3.4K views 16 replies 4 participants last post by  static.wise  
#1 ·
Dead silence. No hums, no fuel pump, no lights

Battery terminals are clean with no corrosion.

I checked the fuse box - when the fuse was placed on the clips of the section of Head Lamp slot (Light R/Luz DER) but not fully inserted, I heard clicks under the dashboard and flashing of the dashboard lights, but when the fuse was fully placed in the clips, nothing, completely dead. (Attach picture)

I used a multimeter and see I am only getting voltage from the two slots mentioned above and circled in the picture.

Could it be a fried fuse box or the fusible link?

Please help 🙏
 

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Discussion starter · #4 ·
Thank yo
This can be a little complicated if you can't read the 240Z wiring diagrams.
From the battery, the main power cable goes from the positive terminal to the starter. From the starter, there is a fusible link that connects the positive to a white wire.
The white wire goes to the fuse box for the brake and horn circuits. The white wire also goes up to the ammeter gauge.
The alternator positive is connected to a white/red wire. That wire branches to the fuse box where it powers the parking light, dome light, and cigarette lighter circuits. There are two branches with inline fuses going to the accessory relay and defroster relay. Other branches go to the ignition switch and headlight switch. The most important branch goes up to the ammeter gauge.

So going back to your picture:
View attachment 114515
The five fuses I circled below the headlight fuse should have voltage to ground at all times.
Thank you, I will check this 🙏
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Hey Steve! Its looking like a bad fusible link. Looks like the previous owner jimmy rigged it also. I connected a external wire from the battery on the positive terminal to the white wire on the fuse box. It got 12v and immediately turned when firing up. 😲

They cut off the fusible link connector to the fuse box wire connector, any suggestions on replacing that portion?
 

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Discussion starter · #7 · (Edited)
Ok will do!! Life saver 🤲

Would you know the gauge of the white wire in the wiring harness? Just in case it is fried I will try and replace it as well.

Would you suggest I solder the cut wires on the steering wheel or use wire crimp terminals for better connection? If terminals, what size terminals would you recommend for the WR (white/red) wire in diagram? 🙏
 

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Discussion starter · #9 · (Edited)
Would you suggest I buy a new harness?

The fusible link it soldered wire to wire and covered in heat shrink (in yellow) with the white/blue wire

Also attached the pictures connected to the steering wheels, to solder or to terminal? 🤔
 

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Discussion starter · #12 ·
The pictures above is do able, it's inside the wiring harness,

Referring to whas Steve said "The white wire in the engine bay is approximately 10AWG. Keep in mind that in the wiring harness there is also a 14AWG wire that runs from the connector for the voltage regulator to that larger wire. They are spliced together in the wiring harness"
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Can you take photos of where the wires have been cut? And if you want to use wire that matches the color scheme of the cut wires, you can probably find it at Vintage Connections.

The white wire in the engine bay is approximately 10AWG. Keep in mind that in the wiring harness there is also a 14AWG wire that runs from the connector for the voltage regulator to that larger wire. They are spliced together in the wiring harness.
Hey Steve, hope all is well - what brand wire would you recommend for the 10 AWG, I got some from Amazon but hesitant to use it due to the reviews of overheating issues