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Vacuum Stuff that I can Remove?

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25K views 16 replies 10 participants last post by  wannabrez  
#1 ·
Alright, I took some pics of the engine as there are some specific items that I want to ask what it is and what it does and then can I get rid of it.

The first picture is an overview of the engine compartment. Pretty much stock except for the sweet plug job done on the EGR valve.
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The Second picture is of the two vacuum connections on the right hand side of the intake manifold. what is the Item on the left and what does it do?
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Both of these two vacuum lines go around the back side of the motor (at the firewall) and connect to two cylindrical looking things on the passenger side strut tower (to the right of the fusable links) and then also connect to the plastic container mounted on the fender down low. What does this stuff do and is any of it needed?
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Next are the items mounted on the left hand side of the intake manifold and the throttle body. I live in Northern Va and do plan to keep the car as a daily driver which means driving in the winter when its cold. so i'm planning to keep the cold start valve when I get my new fuel rail and I'm thinking I'll need to keep the Air Regulator as well, right? But what is the diaphram looking thing with the white cap on it to the right of the throttle body? How can I clean this area up? I've seen enough engine compartment pictures to know that I can combine some of the larger hoses but what to know what I can just get rid of all together.
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Lastyly is the charcoal canister. I know that plenty of people have gotten rid of this as well. but I'm curious about the vacuum connection going back to the distributer. Can that just be removed back to the T off the distributer and capped? Also what about the vent line back to the fuel tank? How do you elminator that or do you need to reconnect somewhere else?
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I know thats a million questions but I've read enough to know that it can be done I just want to make sure I don't remove something that i need because I'm keeping it as a daily driver and not a summer or warm weather only car.

Thanks for all your help in advance.
 
#3 ·
skittle said:
Refer to the post/sticky on the page, then do what it says. This will help with further questions as well.
I completed my profile to provide location and vehicle information. I'll probably download the free copies of the service manual, but I have hard copies of all that stuff as well.

As I mentioned in my post I've read up on this stuff for a while now. I've read a ton of what other people, but that doesn't necessarily mean that what they did will work well for me and my planned usage of the car. I read through a crap load of the service manual this weekend looking for some descriptions of what specific parts do in the vacuum system and the fuel system, but nothing that satisfied my curiousity. Plus there were items I asked about in my pictures that I didn't even find in the service manual.

Yeah I can trial and error with taking things off and disconnecting them to see how they affect the car, but I'd prefer to get some sound opinions or advice from someone that knows the right answers.

I've done my fair share of searching on this site and others and just having gotten the information that i've felt comfortable with so that is the reason for my post.

I included pictures and asked specific questions to provide the most information possible to the people that have the knowledge and can help me out.

I hope that's acceptable reasoning behind my post.
 
#5 ·
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Y0RGO enjoy methode of disabling EGR... (Look Like Old Russian Bubble Gums)

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Yummie Orange
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Minty...
 
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#6 ·
I also went through my vacuum lines and they were cracked or not even connected! I live in a state where there is no smog testing and the Z isnt my daily driver. Below is one of the most recent pictures of my engine bay I could find. I remember removing the CSV, the AAR, EGR, dash pot, charcoal canister, rising rate FPR, AC, and probably a few other items. Try looking on Blues web page for the FI Handbook and figure out what you can delete.

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#7 ·
280Z-Hab

Your engine compartment is defintely one that I've seen before on my search for cleaned up engine bays. So I'm familiar with how it looks. Now my question is, with you removing the CSV and AAR, how is the car to start? Its not your daily driver, but do you only start and drive it when its 70+ degrees out? I'm trying to determine if its going to be impossible to start and hold an idle with those things missing when its winter.

We don't have smog requirements here either so I plan to replace the fuel rail and install an adjustable FPR so get rid of the rising rate. I'd also like to get rid of the charcoal canister, but what did you do with the vacuum line that goes to the distributor? Just cap it off or did you have to reroute it someway?
 
#8 ·
280z-hab. Nice bay, but I hate to say it, your PCV valve cover breather is hooked up wrong. The hose to the valve cover needs to go from between your afm and your TB, and the lower hose coming out of the block goes to the bottom of the manifold. As is, there is no pressure differential between the inlet and outlet and therefore no flow.
 
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#9 ·
Z Heap76 - I live in South Florida, so yeah, I guess I only drive my Z when it is above 70 degrees! Seriously, when the temperature drops like during our cold snap last year and we saw 30s or 40s or when I am at the Mitty in May and the temp is in the 40s and 50s, the Z wasnt hard to start, but I did have to keep the engine rev-ed for a couple minutes util it was warmed up enough not to die. As far as the rising rate FPR, I was having fuel issues and bought an MSD non-rising rate FPR from summitracing.com, then bought a brass plug from Home Depot for the intake manifold. For the charcoal canister, If I remember right, there is a "T" peice in the vacuum line going to the distributor. When I removed the canister, I just used a solid peice of vacuum line and routed it right to the intake manifold (not to the TB) but I left the hose to the gas tank open, I just tucked it behind the mount (I just dont smoke cigarettes working on Rusty's engine while it is running!).

As far as the valve cover hose, I was looking for a place to route this right into the TB when I switched to the 60-mm TB, but there was no port so I just stuck it right to my intake manifold. My PCV valve hose is nearly melted shut because my header isnt wrapped or coated, so I need to look into figuring out if I can just delete the PCV and the valve cover hose. But my Z seems to run fine with the hose routed as-is so I doubt I will even end up messing with it.
 
#10 ·
The stock Z efi system is designed to be used with a rising rate fuel pressure regulator.

A drop in vacuum (open throttle) adds more fuel pressure (more fuel). and Higher vaccum (closed throttle) reduces fuel pressure (less fuel).

The valve cover breather hose goes between the afm and throttle body.

Hope your long rubber gas hose has "fuel Injection" printed on it. Non fuel injection rubber hose is only rated to 25 psi. Rubber fuel injector hose cost about $8/foot. Non efi hose cost about $1/foot. Can use regular gas line after the fuel pressure regulator.
 
#11 ·
It would not be a bad idea to replace the PCV valve and fix that hose. It pulls the piston blowby out of the crank case and burns it. If it is left to fester in the crankcase it will greatly reduce your oil life, causing more wear. You can use heater hose or non FI lines for this, as even if the car is turbo, the most it will see is atmosphere, in fact they will be slightly less then atmosphere, though the heater hose will harden faster.
 
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#12 ·
So the gas line that goes to the charcoal canister is just open?
I understand that it is a ventilation line to carry fumes into the charcoal filter.
But what happens if it's just capped off?
If left open does gas make it's way out?
What's the best/safest thing to do with it if you are not going to run a canister?
 
#15 ·
Silly question I've seen asked before but never answered... what size vacuum hose do we use in these things? (1982 280ZXT)
 
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#16 ·
What size vacuum hose do we use???
 
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