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Should I re-prime with high build primer or will sealer be ok?

263 views 8 replies 4 participants last post by  Bruce83  
#1 ·
Hello all, I'm hoping for a little advice from anyone experienced in painting. For a quick back story, I took the car to bare metal. I put it in epoxy primer. I replaced a couple of rust areas with patches, I pulled the dents, and did all of the body work. I recoated in epoxy. I then did 4 coats of high build primer. I let the epoxy set for 2 weeks, each time before the next steps. I let the high build primer cure for 2 weeks before starting to block. It has been in a warm garage this entire time. typically, the low 80's. I did very thorough cleaning with wax and degreaser between each step.

Now for the question. The door is blocked to 600. I was able to use a 24" block with 400 to get 90% of the guide coat off easily and the finished the remaining spots as needed. More guide coat and then I did the same procedure for the getting it into 600. There are no low areas and just a few burns throughs from very, very minor highs. They pretty much revealed themselves when I blocked in 600. Two are in the center of the door near the body line. Then there are some minor ones along the base of the door. I will put the entire car in a sealer just before I spray the base and clear. It will be done at the same time with the proper flash times. Are these burn throughs too much for sealer to cover? Should I say block the car in 320 and apply 2 more coats of high build and then start the final blocking process?

I am not shooting for show quality. I want a very nice paint job I can be very proud of when people see it. It will always be garaged but driven regularly. Any thoughts and comments are welcomed. Thanks, Chris

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#3 ·
If you sanded through to bare-metal shoot those areas with epoxly, 2k primer and sand again. If you shot the whole car with epoxy and didn't sand through to bare-metal no sealer is needed as that's what the epoxy does. Shoot 3 coats of color and if clear-coat is used, shoot 2 wet-coats a 1/2 hour apart and if you get orange-peel, shoot 2 more coats to wet-sand it before buffing.
 
#4 ·
Thank you for the replies. I'm on no schedule, although I am really ready to be driving it again, so I think I will block the entire car in 400. I will then epoxy any bare spots and let them cure a week or two, Then then another 2 coats of high build 2k. More curing time, then, hopefully, the "real" final blocking. I will use a sealer because I've been told, with the color I am using, it has to be over a very uniform color. I already have the sealer so no point in not using it.
 
#5 ·
I used PPG Omni epoxy primer (it's cheap) and only wait 10 minutes for it to flash before applying 2K primer. I (hard and soft) block sand with 320 and keep blowing off the paper with air to keep it clean. My 83' 280ZX was silver, but I'm painting 2 coats of PPG DBC 2003 Nissan KYO Chrome Silver Metalic and 1 final dusting coat 10 inches away for the Metalic look. After it flashes in 10 minutes I spray on 4 coats of PPG 2021 StratoClear (it's PPG's best, but expensive) and so I don't get solvant-pop, I wait a 1/2 between coats. As of yet I haven't figured out how to apply the clear without getting orange-peel. So I wait a week and wet-sand with 600 and when almost smooth, wet-sand with 1500, then 2000. When I start my buffing, due to the 4 coats iof clear nstead of 2 I don't burn-thru.
Good luck with your car and don't let this part get you down, I'm more mechanical than a painter so I had to paint the underside of my hood twice and my front fenders 3 times. I've still got he the doors, rear quarters, back, fiberglass bumpers and side-skirts to do.