Perhaps a more detailed history of your Z might help. Are you the original owner? Any mods that might effect the electrical system? Model and year?

 

TCS and Slip lights? Wouldn't this be a drivetrain related issue?

I don't know a **** thing about the electronic drivetrain controls on this car. Looks like its time to bust out the FSM again.

 

I'm the original owner. 2003 model (bought in Nov 2002). Touring model,Automatic and no modifications. SES light, TCS off and SLIP lights comes on when there are issues with Camshaft Position Sensors (according to other posts/owners). There was a recall in 2003 but now Nissan is not honoring that (recall is for 2 camshaft sensors and the crankshaft sensor replacement).

 

When you clear the code, do the lights go off at least temporarily, and then come back on within a few miles? That was my scenario. It is possible you bought a bad sensor, not unheard of. Also, try some electrical cleaner on the plug - sometimes they get oil on them; and make sure the plug snapped on tightly and the sensor itself is bolted down tightly. If the code was truly reading Bank 1, don't think replacing the other side is going to help - it has its own readout clearly saying Bank 2, although the code itself is the same number. When you get the code read, does it clearly state Bank 1? Not "A" or anything ambiguous?
And I never did figure out why those particular lights come on along with the SES light, but that is what happens. When mine came on, I knew immediately what the cause was since I had seen many posts about it.

 

First time I took it to Autozone, the TCS off and SLIP lights went off after the code read. They came back by the time I came home (less than 10 minutes). I made sure sensor is tightened correctly and the plug did snap on tightly. There were no oil on the green plug to clean.
The second time I took to Autozone (after replacing the sensor), none of the lights went off after the code read. Yes, both code reads were identical:
------------------------------------
TROUBLESHOOTING P0340
OEM Brand: OBDII
The PCM has determined that a malfunction exists in the electrical circuit for camshaft position sensor "A". (Bank 1 or single sensor) (bank 1 identifies the location of cylinder#1, while bank 2 identifies the cylinders on the opposite bank)
------------------------------------
TROUBLESHOOTING P0340
OEM Brand: DOMESTIC
Defition
Cam sensor condition
Explanation
The Camshaft Position sensor signal is monitored for errors
Probable Causes
1.-Cam sensor defective
2.-Check connector and wiring to sensor
3.-Engine mechanical condition-timing belt/chain out of time

 

I say tell Nissan what is up and see if they will give you another sensor. i had a problem with a bad coil pack that took 3 replacements before I got one that lasted more than 50 or miles - had no problem since the latest one about 4 months ago.
A certified mechanic in my Z club says you can pretty much rule out reason 3 as there is almost no chance that a timing chain would slip.
I DO think all that Bank A and Bank 1 thing leads to some massive confusion, and to be honest, I thought I was throwing a P0345 code for Bank 1, but I could easily be mistaken on that and the code has been cleared so I can't check. So the only other thing I can think of is to replace the drivers side sensor and see if that makes it go away. It is slightly more expensive than the passenger sides, and you have to remove the throttle body to access it, but other than that, a pretty easy install. Keep us posted?

 

A is before B, 1 is before 2, there are only two cylinder banks on the engine.... whats the confusion?

To be honest, I can't find anything (so far) in the FSM that would lead me to believe that the PCM/ECU code has anything to do with the SLIP and TCS lights. Technically, the OBD2 diagnostic system ONLY interfaces with the "Check Engine" light (I think you're calling it the SES light, correct?). You have to remember that the ECU is monitoring either a voltage or circuit resistance as a signal from the sensors. The ECU will prompt that error code if it reads a value that is either higher or lower than expected. This could be due to a malfunctioning sensor, but it could also be broken electrical connectors, loose wires, corroded wires, a bad ground, short in the harness, etc. For right now, since the car is behaving exactly the same as before, I would suggest you make the assumption that the sensor itself is probably OK for now, and look into the wiring.

 

I never found the Slip or VDC light mentioned either, but I can absolutely guarantee that they both come on, along with the SES light, when a cam sensor goes bad (or as you mentioned, maybe when the wiring has a problem). It has been noted in many threads at my350 and at Motoring, and it happened last week when mine failed. Weird thing is that it is usually accompanied with an engine that won't rev past around 1800 RPMS or so, and mine never did that - it would stall if idling when the lights came on, or give a brief hiccup if at any cruising speed, and be hard to start when warmed up fully. But after replacement the lights went away and stayed away, so it works for me.
Oh, as far as the confusion, I am easily confused, lol. But there are multiple threads that are ass-backwards in which bank is which, and I just don't know why they use both A/B and 1/2. One poster even said he got 2 different answers from Nissan dealers as to which side is Bank 1. So I guess it is not just me.

 

Thats real weird how it trips lights for the VDC and SLIP, which seem completely unrelated to the EFI system... I think it would be nice every now and then if Nissan would decide to chime in and tell us the "why" behind their madness. Large companies should pay people specifically to sit on forums like this and help out the home mechanic. Its simple things like that which set a company apart from the rest.

 

I thought bank A was the drivers side bank?

 

maybe the vdc and slip lights come on because of the electronic throttle controlling the engine? maybe the prob is there? Just trying to put something out there that might get you problem solving.

 

that is true. the throttle-by-wire brings a lot to the table that I'm not familiar enough with yet. The FSM's keep getting more and more massive, so its hard to find all those little bits you're looking for. Still seems weird that the cam position sensor, which has more to do with ignition timing and fuel injection than anything else, would be throwing the VDC and SLIP lights.

oh and for future reference, bank A or 1 is ALWAYS the engine's right (or passenger side if looking at the car from the front) on any V6. ALL V6 engines have the same firing pattern 1-2-3-4-5-6 (some start at 6 and go 6-1-2-3-4-5, but once its in motion its the same thing) with the possible exceptions of some American V6's which were really designed as V8's and then later had two cylinders literally chopped off.

 

If I look at my car from the front, the right side is the drivers side. See what I mean about confusing? But you are correct that A or 1 is the passenger side.

 

Yesterday I bought the camshaft sensor for the Driver's side. I'm going to install that and see if that works. I'll update you guys when I'm done (in 2 or 3 days). I appreciate all your help.

 

Any update on your situation?

 

Been busy with family matters. I couldn't remove the air-intake block (the dealer had tried to remove it while back - I don't know why - and screwed up a bolt). Long story.......anyway......so I got really frustated and took the car to the Nissan Dealer today. Of course they charged me $96 for diagnosis and found the same side (passenger side) cam-shaft sensor mulfunction. I told to do the diagnosis because I was thinking Autozone's was not correct (but it is correct). So, since I need a **** car (been sharing Wife's Murano for 2 months), I told them to replace the sensor. They just called and said it's done and it's going to cost me $320. So, I'm down almost $500 bucks for this crap. $320 plus the 2 sensors I bought from another dealer ($80 + $80).

 

Ouch!$320 less $96 is $224, retail for the part is $60, meaning labor was more or less $165 for something that took me an hour. And that, boys and girls, is why they call them "stealerships". But at least you are back up and running. Question - if the other sensors were "bad" which is not unheard of, you should try to get your money back, especially if the dealer who just fixed the problem did nothing more than install a new sensor.