I'm stricltly a S30 (75-78) guy and don't know very much about the EFI on the S130's and the changes made to the EFI circuitry, However the L28E systems are similar in functionality.
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Key items to check against the Factory Service Manual - FSM for your year ZX:
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You need to source a free copy of your ZX's FSM from here xenonzcar.com under References drop down menu.
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Perform the many checks and measurements for voltage and resistances before and after cleaning the EFI Harneses and all grounds and ensure you have clean and secure battery cables, Fusible links and heavy gauge bonding jumpers from Batt to Chassis, Eng to Chassis.
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Fuel Pressure w/ & w/o a vacuum source, Fuel discharge pressure test as well as a volumetric (GPM) to validate the new Fuel Pump you've installed is up to the task.
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While we're on the subject of fuel, did you drop the tank to clear it of crusty corn flakes of rust particles. IDK if the S130 has a Sock in the tank but they're the first to constrain fuel flow due to crud in the bottom of the Tank.
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The EFI is highly sensitive to proper bonding and grounding as well as voltage drops and bad electrical connectivity and ampere carrying capability due to oxidized or corroded EFI Harness connections.

Happy Hunting and let us know what you determine or find out

 

I would check the rubber hose between the air flow meter and throttle body. With the car sitting for over a decade that hose probably dry rotted to some extent, especially where there are folds. If it’s leaking, (letting air in that isn’t being metered by the afm), it would do as you described. It would turn over and almost start, but would immediately die.

 

vacuum leaks will cause running issues. also, a faulty cylinder head temperature sensor can cause issues. you can test it.... on your car it is located on the passenger's side of the head inbetween the 5th and 6th plugs. can't miss it. like what's been said above, get into that FSM for your year car. also download the fuel injection bible (free over at www.xenonzcar.com) and that can help you diagnose and troubleshoot the bosch L-jetronic injection system. hope this helps.

 

Don't go and assume that your problem is timing. Unless you have checked the timing you cannot say its the timing. You can loosen the distributor and move it while attempting to start the engine to see if anything improves.
What year is the car......yes it makes a difference is some problems.

You are also making the assumption that you have fuel pressure. Just because your injectors are squirting (and that is a good sign) that they are squirting for the proper amount of time (duration). Your ECU is very dumb and gets no feedback on how well it is performing its job. PROPER fuel pressure is very important because, like you, it assumes that the fuel pressure is correct and sets the duration based on a couple of sensers on your car. These sensers are the CHTS/CTS (depending on the year), the AFM air flow reading, the AFM temperature reading and the TPS. So your ECU looks at these items and makes a calculation and determines that the duration should be X with the proper fuel pressure. If the pressure is hi you will be rich and if it is low you will be lean.

Pull the spark plugs and see if what color they are.

You should pull the fuel tank sending unit to check the condition of the fuel tank. Be careful with the sending unit as they are NLA.

 

also, disconnect the fuel line from the fuel filter (the line that goes back to the tank) put a bucket underneath and position the hose (safely) into the bucket. go and turn the key on your car, not to start, but "on" to where your fuel pump kicks on, and when it does, it will run for 5-seconds and then turn off automatically. monitor the fuel that comes out of the hose into the bucket and see what it looks like and if there is crap in there, or if any fuel at all. this way you know that fuel is being pumped from the tank up to the engine bay. if that is good, then you get a cheap fuel pressure gauge and put it inline before or after the fuel filter (I would put it before it) and then you check the fuel pressure. it should read 30/35 I believe and that will tell you that your gas delivery is good up to that point. and then go from there. check fuel before spark. then spark. then vacuum. easy stuff first.

 

The OP did not list the year of the car so if the car is a 82 or 83 the fuel pump will run for 5 seconds. If it is a 79 to 81 it will not. You will have to remove the small wire from your starter (this will prevent the starter from spinning the engine) and turn your key to start to get the pump to run.

 

I just assumed it was the ‘83 in the OP’s signature.

 

Missed that!

 

There is a lot of help for you at this link:

https://www.zcar.com/threads/how-to-restore-or-start-up-an-old-z-car-collection-of-links.421874/?post_id=2782727#post-2782727