ZCar Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
<head>
<title>None</title>
</head>
<body bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
I finally got a 5-speed in my Z. A long road to be sure. Not much documentation
on the web relating to changing out a 3 speed auto to a 5 speed. But, I collected
every piece of information I could and here is the result.

Almost perfect, except for two things. The stick is too far forward and I need
to know what can I do about it? My guess was to bend the stick towards the back
and then back up, but I'm sure the crome will just crack and pop off, and it
might make it too low. Any suggestions?
</body>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,670 Posts
You have to do two things: remove a small piece of sheet metal and change out the center console. There were two different center consoles, one for automatics and a different one for manual trannys.

Detail: For cars equipped with automatic trannys on the 280s (and I'm pretty sure the 240s as well), there was a plate welded at the front of the tranny tunnel shifter opening that reduced it in size. If you have that on yours, you'll need to drill out the 4-5 spot welds that hold that extra plate on and remove that plate to get the full size on the shifter opening. Then switch out the center console for a console from a standard transmission 240z. Both the 240 4 speed manual and the 5 speed manual from later 280s and 280zxs have the same external dimensions and shifter postion, so this should work for you just fine.

I'm restoring/hot-rodding a '78 automatic and I'll have to do all this on the 280 as well--ie. remove the plate at the front of the shifter opening in the tranny tunnel and get a manual tranny center console to replace the automatic tranny console.

Whatever you do, don't mess with trying to bend the shifter, you'll damage it beyond repair.
Alex in VA
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,339 Posts
If you decide to modify the shifter, ther easiest way is to got to someone who can weld and cut the shift lever down low where the boot will hide the marks and have the welder tack it in place and try it and see how it feels. Once you've found a comfortable spot, he can then finish the weld.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The plate over that was over the shifter was removed. The problem really, is the placement of the shifter pivot. It's way to far forward for a straight stick to be in confortable reach. If bending it is going to ruin the stick, I'll go with the plan that Gearhead has, of cutting it and re-welding it. The rubber boot and the leather cover should cover up any welding scars. Of course, if they don't I can always sand it down and get it re-chromed. Thanks for the advice!

If you need a list of parts (the small things like bolts and retaining rings and such) I'm planning on posting my experiences with this project on my web page. www.alien-e.com (nothing up there right now though)

alien-e
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
yes, it looks to me like you need to turn that shift lever around 180 deg. Also, there is a shift lever (in 260's for sure) which has more of an angle toward the back. This might fix your problem. But really, that shift lever is more straight - and it looks as though it bends toward the front rather than toward the rear...which would help. Get the shift lever with more backward angle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
As you can see from this side profile picture, rotating the shifter wouldn't solve the problem or make it any better.



Take a look at all of the pictures, on my website, here:

http://www.alien-e.com/shifter.htm

I'll look into that 260 shifter this afternoon, but I'm not too hopeful. I don't think they mount the same way.

Thanks for the help!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,175 Posts
Use a 280Z shifter!

I grabbed a shifter from a 5-speed 280Z and I have zero problems with hitting the transmission tunnel in my 240Z. It has a different curve in it to clear the hole. Shifters in the 4-speed 280Z's may be the same, but I had a few to choose from so I went with the one from the 5-speeder.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
166 Posts
Try this.........

Ok, here's a solution to your conversion problems. When I converted my 3-speed auto to an '83 280ZX 5-speed I encountered the same problems.

On the console, I went ahead and replaced the auto console with a manual. I don't know if the auto console will work. I don't think the outer boot will fit correctly. However if you’re on a tight budget then maybe you can make it work.

For the shifter, NissanAutoParts.

The shifter works great without hitting the console corners. Hope this helps.

Ruben
’72 240Z
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Used a 280 Z shifter!

I went to the junkyard after work and found, in the field of Z's, a few 280's with 4 speed manuals. Pulled the shifter, and a few other parts (including a walnut shifter nob that needs some work) and dropped it in. It was bent back just as Brian 72Z said. It's exactly what I needed! However, it is a bit sloppy, but I can take that out with a collar pressed into the pivot hole. I also picked up some other stuff to finish up a few minor projects, and it only cost 20 bucks. Thanks for everyones help.

alien-e
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,153 Posts
Re: Use a 280Z shifter!

Brian is exactly right. Buy a 78 5 speed shift lever. The pivot on the tranny is different on 4 and 5 speeds. Only the 5 speed one will operate the gears correctly. Only the 78 5 speed one will fit properly in your console.

Using a self bent ZX 5 speed shifter is a bad idea. It is too short.

Buy the replacement nylon shifter bushings while you are at it. Your stick will be firmer, and won't get hot like it does when you use the home made brass bushings suggested on Zhome.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Re: Use a 280Z shifter!

I did end up finding an shifter out of a 280Z. It works, but it's really sloppy. It already had a nylon bushing on it. However, the length of the tapered portion, past the pivot hole, was slightly longer than the ZX stick. With the bushing on, it was too long, with it off, it's too sloppy. A lot of the slop could be taken out with a bushing in the pivot hole, but I don't think I can fit the bushing down in there at all.

Thanks for your help, Zuber.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top