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I'm looking for a Z32 for under $6000, preferably closer to $4000. It's been difficult finding much so far, of course, and I don't really expect to find a TT - I guess I'd be happy with the N/A performance anyway. (As a side note, what mods would you recommend on a N/A, or is it not worth it - just buy a TT now?) But back to the main point, I found a few I'll be checking out soon, and I was wondering if anybody could give me some advice. They're a good hour's drive out so I wonder which to go to first. I ran CARFAX reports on all of them, and will run more on any other car I like, so if you have one for sale near North Jersey please tell me.

1. http://tinyurl.com/cmpxg
Mostly in decent condition, interior seats look a little beat up, tint is stick-on removable. Collided with parked car in 1992 causing damage to front left, appears minor (will check along frame rails). Seems 2 owners. Low miles, so the engine's probably good, and it's actually at a dealer.

2. http://tinyurl.com/8578f
Another N/A, with 40,000 more miles but has a completely clean record, looks like 3 owners, looks clean from the picture.

3. http://tinyurl.com/dtsw5
Ew, body kit, Ew, auto, Mmm, twin turbo. I gotta ask, though - a lot of people tell me the turbos need rebuilds around 90k miles. Carfax says 6+ owners. It -is- a 93 though.

I may have a very knowledgeable friend coming with me who knows how to look for problems, especially on (older) Zs. I have unlimited CARFAX reports for a month, by the way, so if you want anything checked, let me know. :p
 

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tell everyone where you are (i'm guessing NY?). we'd all love to help you find a Z.
you can find a decent NA for around $4k. you can find a beautiful NA for $6-$7k.
dave
 

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I'm looking for a Z32 for under $6000, preferably closer to $4000.

You are in solid NA territory.

As a side note, what mods would you recommend on a N/A, or is it not worth it - just buy a TT now?

Intake and Exhaust for NA is what I'd recommend. Thats about it. NAs are fun fun fun cars. If raw power is what you want though, save up for a TT now.

1. http://tinyurl.com/cmpxg
Looks ok for the money. If the engine passes muster, then not a bad find. Worth more like $2995.

http://tinyurl.com/8578f
New clutch is nice. Slightly older car - may have smaller calipers and other early 90 issues.

3. http://tinyurl.com/dtsw5
575 HP for $5100? 1 word: SCAM. Either you email this seller and they tell you they are in Africa and they will ship you the car OR this car has been ragged beyond believe and barely drives and/or blown motor.

Good luck with your search. I have found local AUTO circulars to be the best resouce for finding Zs. Especially in heavily populated areas.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Oh, right, I forgot. I'm in North Jersey, how many others around here? :) And yeah, I figured the 575hp for a bullshit spec (unless stickers/scoops count). I've seen my fair share of scams, call their bluff and judge their reaction, or just leave it alone. I thought I found a great 91 Supra Turbo until I used Photoshop to examine the photos beyond what my eyes could see - just outside of the pictures, there was a missing mirror and a big dent. I try to avoid Long Island if I can, it's so loaded with chop shops and bullshitters...

So anyway, this -will- be the first car of my own so I'm sure the N/A will keep me quite entertained. :D Fastest thing I've driven is our family car, '99 Olds Aurora (Great car by the way) which I don't believe makes more than 8.1s on the 0-60, with the manual I don't have. It's gonna be a daily driver.

I think the first one I'll look at is in Long Island, I'd argue him down in price then spend a little making it nice. New bumper, seats, exhaust and intake, I guess. The other car might be aging a bit, and the motor is the most important part.

Let me just say this is one of the friendliest forums I've ever participated in, helpful advice and greetings abound.
Rob



Post Edited (Jan 18, 7:48pm)
 

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Go over the engine thoroughly. If you can take the car on an "extended" test drive (couple hours) try and do that. Put it through the ringer. Drive it hard and then jack it up and check for oil leaks.

Bring a screwdriver and Check the codes

You want to look for failing sensors or electronics, dead injectors, leaky pipes & hoses, rust, etc..

Here is some important reading to get you started:

<http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/BuyingZ.htm>
<http://www.300zx.org.uk/tech_20.htm>
<http://auto.consumerguide.com/Auto/Used/reviews/full/index.cfm/id/2347/act/usedcarreviewroadtest/>
<http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/FAQpages/usedpurchasing.html>
"Motor´s Trend 1990 Car of the year" from Motor Trend 03/90
The Edmunds road test

Good Luck with your search! This site is your 1st and best resource.
 

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"Fastest thing I've driven is our family car, '99 Olds Aurora (Great car by the way) which I don't believe makes more than 8.1s on the 0-60, with the manual I don't have. It's gonna be a daily driver."


Just remember that Car and Driver tested their 90 NA at 6.7 secs in the 0-60 dash. A well maintained NA may not be the fastest car on the road, but it ain't that slow either.

I recommend you look for a good, close-as-possible-to-stock, low-miles NA for your money.

-MAS
 

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What ever car you decide to look at (I wouldn't bother with the TT). Show up an hour earlier than you tell the people so you can watch them start it. See how it runs when cold, listen for lifter noise or missing/sputter.
Make sure the car hasn't been driven for several hours, then see how the clutch works (is it grabby when cold?) do you hear any noise when the clutch is engaged that wasn't there before? Does the transmission go into gear smoothly and shift well? Don't rush the shifts when the tranny oil is cold but shift from gear to gear smoothly. Does it stumble or jerk?
Any clunks or noises from under the car at bumps? Does the car pull to one side or the other? Does it stop smoothly with no hard pulling to one side or shimmy?
Try to run it to 100 or so (yeah, I know what time of year it is) but you want to see how stable the car is. It should be smooth and stable (I think my '90 na is happier at 85-100 than it is at 50-65) no shakes or wandering.
Look under the hood, is the engine clean? Not pressure washed but well cared for. Has the factory wiring been hacked on? How about the stereo? Do all the speakers work?
There are a few things these cars, especially the early ones, sometimes show:
Injector problems (rough idle or stumble on lower rpm range)
Tension arm bushing failure (wander or shimmy)
Bose Stereo (referred to Blows stereo, need I say more?)

Lastly, try to get maintainence records. It's important that these cars are well and regularly maintained.
Good luck, let us know what you find-
Dan
 
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