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Discussion Starter #1
I took my car in for a timing adjustment the other day...and they set the distributor timing to 10 degrees ( or somthing to 10 degrees, they used a little light thingie ) And ever since they did that my acceleration has been killed, and my engine has been pinging/puffing....going Poufff Pouff Pufff when i put it under load.....now i checked my TPS this morning every made everything go the right way in that area...but i was wondering if any of you Z God/Godesses could tell me what the distributor timing should be set at Degrees wise



1982 280zx T


Thank's ou Cray Z people you

Matt
 

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Man, Don't pay someone to do your timing. It's pretty easy, just find someone that knows how to show you. It's not something I can explain but easy once someone showes ya. When you pop your hood you should see some stickers stuck on the bottom side (Facing the engine down towards the air cleaner) There should be two of them. One of them will talk about your AC system and the other about Idle and Timing, look there to see what the timing should be set at. Now I would assume your 82 and my 83 zxt should be set the same, if this is so then that mechanic retarted your timing (the spark fires later in relation to when the piston reaches the top of the cylinder and starts going down) My car's little sticker says 24 degrees BTDC (Before Top Dead Center) If it is the same on your car and he set it to 10 Degrees BTDC that would explain crappy acceleration.

Where in the world are you at? maybe someone from here is close to ya and can help ya out.

Josh 83zxt
San Jose, CA
 

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I agree with EagerCrow. In addition the timing procedure isn't straight forward on most cars. Normally you would have to remove the vacuum advance hose to get a true reading, some cars take this into account and spec with this included. 10 degrees BTDC is about as generic as putting 34 PSI into every car tire, if the owner doesn't know any better then maybe it's ok, otherwise it's just plain wrong.

Spend the money, buy the tools. Pinging would be from too far advanced.

ConorP
 

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10 degrees is correct for a N/A engine but check the sticker under the hood.

Disconnect the vacuum line at the vacuum advance before you set the timing and plug the loose end.

Check that your vacuum advance is working by removing the distributor cap and apply a vacuum to the vacuum advance unit. At 6 inches of vacuum the rod should start to retract and it should be fully retracted at 16 inches of vacuum.

Wayne Monteath
Masham, Quebec
 

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Discussion Starter #5
HA HA!!! when i called my mechanic and told him that it should have been set at 24 BTDC not 10, he told me that all you guys were wrong and that its impossible to be set at 24 it can't be done blah blah blah....so eventually he told me to call the dealership, ask them...let them laugh in my face (yes i'm using exact words, never using this guy again) and then call him back and tell him what they said.



Ok so my question is...how can it be set at 24??


thanks


Matt P.S. HELP ME PROVE HIM WRONG PLEASE!!!
 

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RTFM or the sticker.

1982

Non-Turbo = 8 +/- 2 degrees BTDC @ 700 +/- 100 RPM.

Turbo

Manual Trans = 20 +/- 3 degrees BTDC @ 700 +/- 50 RPM.
Automatic Trans = 20 +/- 3 degrees BTDC @ 650 +/- 50 RPM.

Even the Haynes manual, page 26, gets this one correct.

How to set the timing is covered on pages 44 - 45.

Wayne Monteath
Masham, Quebec.
 

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Weasel mechanics and other stuff

It's been my experience that your common everyday mechanic knows NOTHINGabout turbo motors, and most of them don't seem know a whole lot about normally aspirated Zs, either. One VERY good and very honest mechanic I know actually turned me away from his shop when I was trouble with my '82 ZXT, saying something to the effect of 'we don't work on those anymore.' (He later helped me a lot on the side as we got to know each other.) Point is, if you're going to pay someone to work on your car, pick a Z specialist. It will be worth it in the long run.

I agree, however, that you should do most of the easy stuff, like timing, yourself. Especially since, as Eager Crow pointed out, the timing info is on the sticker right under the hood. How can that weasel mechanic screw up the timing specs when they're right there in front of him?

One more thing: hate to tell you this, but I don't think '82 turbos had TPSs. That little black box on the throttle body does something else on the turbos. My '82's been gone for a couple of years so I don't remember exactly what it did do, but it's something else.
 

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I recently had the same problem, lousy acceleration, poor response, back-firing through carbs, and sounding like it was one breath away from terminal repair.

When I took it to the mechanic, he pin pointed part of the problem right away. My car is a 240Z with electronic ignition from a later year, probably a 79. Inside the distributor is a small plastic plate that retains several ball bearings. This is the plate that the vacuum advance relies on in order to do it's thing of changing the timing of the engine. In my case this PLASTIC was shot and I had ball bearings all over the inside of the distributor. My mechanic told me that it would literally be impossible to set my timing without replacing it. The reason for it is that even though he could set the timing, the first time I accelerated hard enough to generate some vacuum would probably cause the timing to change, and since the return mechanism was shot, it wouldn't return to the previous position hence out of timing. Additional driving / acceleration would only compound the problem.

So regardless of what degree BTDC OR ATDC you are set to, make sure that your distributor is functioning properly.

By the way, how the heck did your mechanic "finish" the car without a road-test? It seems to me that he should have noticed that it wasn't functioning properly, and needed addtitional work. If your distributor advance plate was shot, either before or after he did the work, that would explain why it got past him, but he should have checked that part and given you a heads up warning that it was going bad.

FWIW
 

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Tell that mechanic to pull his head out....

Of his ass.

You should look at that little sticker. If it is there, see what it says then call the mechanic, and read it to him....exactly what it says (I would never go back and I'd make sure to tell whoever I could to do the same). About not being able to advance the timing that much. You can cause on my 83 zxt I can set it all the way to 28 degrees BTDC. If nobody has removed the oil pump and or distributor then it should be possible. Check the sticker, buy an FSM, if you can't get yer hands on an FSM or don't have the money then go to checker or some auto parts store and pick up the Haynes or Chiltons, they are better than nothing, and only $20 or so.

Good luck,

Josh
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Re: Tell that mechanic to pull his head out....

YES!!!! So i called my dealership....now at first they told me it needs to be clsoer to 10, and then i informed them that it is a turbo.....heh...their tune changed REAL fast



So i called that jack ass mechanic back up, told him what they said, plus i even found it in my Haynes manual.....and i'm bringing it back on Monday to get it all fixed up and to give him a good talkin too.


Thanks again everyone for all of your help!!!


Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hey JR......TPS thingie

Well, its classified as a TPS when you order one from the parts store. However the funtion is different on the turbos...only 2 of the 3 pins are used...i dont exactly know why, im sure someone posted it on here before...oh well


Matt
 

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Re: Tell that mechanic to pull his head out....

If I were you, I'd demand to stand right there watchin when he does the work on your car, and not let it get out of my sight. I'd be worried that the dumb ass mechanic would screw with something just because he is mad that you called him on his FUBAR. then I would never ever ever never take it there again, and make sure they knew that.

Josh
 

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Year, Make and Model?

This is a very good example of not providing complete and exact information about your car when posting questions on this board.

There were 11 posts in this thread trying to help you with setting the timing, only 1 explicitly addressed the difference between N/A and turbo.

Up until you supplied the info in your last post I did not know that you had a 1982 280 ZXT.

I always thought you had a 280 Z that was jet black with a 1982 engine in it.

You are lucky, in that you can get a FSM on CD for your vehicle, so get one.

Wayne Monteath
Masham, Quebec.
 

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Re: Hey JR......TPS thingie

The TPS on a 82 turbo only uses the idle sense part of the switch.

The WOT function is handled by something else on your vehicle.

It is fully explained in the FSM.

Get one.

Wayne Monteath
Masham, Quebec.
 

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On turbo engines timing should rarely if ever need to be adjusted. Timing is controled by the ECCS system. All that is required as "timing" is setting the crank angle sensor which tells the computer when pistons are at TDC. To correct what your mechanic has f'd up you need to do a couple simple things. 1) adjust the throttle valve switch so that the idle contact has continuity when throttle is closed (idle position) and open as soon as throttle begins to open. 2) make sure that with #1 piston at TDC on compression stroke the distributor rotor is pointing at the number 1 spark plug wire position and firing order is 1 5 3 6 2 4 counterclockwise. 3) start engine and warm up 4) ensure engine speed is 650-750 then set timing to 20 BTDC by turning distributor slightly in appropriate direction. (clockwise for more advance, etc) 5) avoid this "mechanic" like the plague in the future. Good luck.
 
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