Sorry don't have a flat face scanner to scan in article, my scanner / fax requires the sheets to be loose.
In a nutshell the article goes into great detail but the steps are simple
Remove from car.
Wash in warm soapy solution using scotch brite pads to remove grime and goo on on wheel, being careful not to scrub the patina off the wheel. (The patina is the brown coloring on the plastic, yes it's plastic)
This should have removed the bulk of the old varnish, check the wheel to remove the last of the varnish using brillo or scotch pads.
Once the wheel portion is cleaned up, address the hub and spokes, prep for regular metal paint.
The article recommends painting the wheel first with some sort of polyurethane (no specific brand given) I used a fuel-proofing clear polyurethane specifically for r/c planes / boats but the choice is up to you. Take care to build up slowly, don't rush it as clear runs easy. Lay several coats on, let tack /dry between coats and build up as you want. If you wish to repeat the process, you need to scuff finish to accept more coats. Build up to the level of smoothness, gloss, or depth desired.
Once you're done, mask the wheel then paint the hub. Prep the metal with scotch brite or wet / dry sandpaper, then you can either go with the primer / paint method or go straight to some finish type paint for metal such as Rust-O-Leum. Paint to level of coverage and thickness desired, let dry.
Return to Car
I personally painted the hub / spokes first and I used Rust-O-Leum's Satin Black as in my opinion, it's the best match for the satin black of the dash, and other components. I let this stuff dry in the sun for a couple days before I tackled the steering wheel paint. I then painted 6 coats, allowed to dry over night, then scuffed and painted another 6 coats. Did this a total of 4 times with very light but uniform coats of clear. The end result still allows a slight feel of the "woodgrain" but feels smooth to the touch, has good depth of clear and high gloss.
By the way go check out www.sportzmagazine.com they do have back issues, and a subscription is only like $18 U.S. and only like $24 or so if you're out of the country.
FWIW
In a nutshell the article goes into great detail but the steps are simple
Remove from car.
Wash in warm soapy solution using scotch brite pads to remove grime and goo on on wheel, being careful not to scrub the patina off the wheel. (The patina is the brown coloring on the plastic, yes it's plastic)
This should have removed the bulk of the old varnish, check the wheel to remove the last of the varnish using brillo or scotch pads.
Once the wheel portion is cleaned up, address the hub and spokes, prep for regular metal paint.
The article recommends painting the wheel first with some sort of polyurethane (no specific brand given) I used a fuel-proofing clear polyurethane specifically for r/c planes / boats but the choice is up to you. Take care to build up slowly, don't rush it as clear runs easy. Lay several coats on, let tack /dry between coats and build up as you want. If you wish to repeat the process, you need to scuff finish to accept more coats. Build up to the level of smoothness, gloss, or depth desired.
Once you're done, mask the wheel then paint the hub. Prep the metal with scotch brite or wet / dry sandpaper, then you can either go with the primer / paint method or go straight to some finish type paint for metal such as Rust-O-Leum. Paint to level of coverage and thickness desired, let dry.
Return to Car
I personally painted the hub / spokes first and I used Rust-O-Leum's Satin Black as in my opinion, it's the best match for the satin black of the dash, and other components. I let this stuff dry in the sun for a couple days before I tackled the steering wheel paint. I then painted 6 coats, allowed to dry over night, then scuffed and painted another 6 coats. Did this a total of 4 times with very light but uniform coats of clear. The end result still allows a slight feel of the "woodgrain" but feels smooth to the touch, has good depth of clear and high gloss.
By the way go check out www.sportzmagazine.com they do have back issues, and a subscription is only like $18 U.S. and only like $24 or so if you're out of the country.
FWIW
