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And a common problem back on page 2... your shift lock solenoid will not disengage.....
AND when you press the brake pedal the solenoid doesn't CLICK?

The tranny interlock switch controls the solenoid & the start relay...... HMMMMMMMMMMMMM


http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=at&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=10&design=default&total=194

The tranny switch ( just for start ) is a Black & a brown.. but it looks like a 6 pin connector
http://www.courtesyparts.com/300zx-parts-z32-1990-1996/genuine-nissan-parts/power-train/319-control-switch-system/-c-882_883_953_965.html

http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_info.php?products_id=1501
 

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Is this a car you just acquired? Maybe that info is somewhere here on zcar but I didn't look. If you already drove the car for a while and had the engine rebuilt, you can probably ignore what's below your quote.

itawolf said:
Ok not much time to work on car b/c of work---dang 6 days aweek crap

I did find the TPS not reading right -----so I got a new one ---havnt installed yet

ok now to the key not starting the car---i was checking all grounds
i did find something different then what one of my cars shows and and what FSM shows

the theft relay in the car now has

WHT BRN/WHT
!
RED BRN/wht ------------This one goes across the front and over to the harness running into the pass side area into ecm area-----i havent chased it down but prob into THeft box or Auto cntrl box---

but the relay in my other non turbo z and the wiring chart show the relay as this

WHT BRN/WHT
!
RED BLK <-------this wire is the ground under the relay box

now if I take the brn/wht wire thats in the car and ground it----the car will start with the key
i'll get some pics up soon
Is this BRN/WHT wire exposed or inside a harness? You say you can see it going along the front to a harness headed for the passenger area.
If it's exposed and BRN/WHT stripe, it might be industrial instrumentation/enclosure/control wire that someone ran from the relay to a kill switch somewhere under the dash to control the function of the BLK relay wire to ground. Any loose BLK wires lounging around the relay area?
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Vigman said:
IS it possible that either the connector for the auto tranny switch is unplugged or the switch is damaged ( on the side of the tranny ) ?

Yes grounding the brown wire will make the relay go CLICK and allow the start signal to get to the starter motor...
BUT

If you have the car in drive or reverse and use the key and the car starts.... the power train will engage

Trans has a new inhibator switch----and is adjusted as it was never taken off the car---and the car ran fine------when i got the car almost 2 years ago ---it needed a trans ---so i rebuilt it----car ran good for a year then i decided to pull engine and do a rebuild -----i did recheck the switch thou --and it pins out ok as with what the FSM says
 

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Discussion Starter #44
dumbestone said:
Is this a car you just acquired? Maybe that info is somewhere here on zcar but I didn't look. If you already drove the car for a while and had the engine rebuilt, you can probably ignore what's below your quote.

Is this BRN/WHT wire exposed or inside a harness? You say you can see it going along the front to a harness headed for the passenger area.
If it's exposed and BRN/WHT stripe, it might be industrial instrumentation/enclosure/control wire that someone ran from the relay to a kill switch somewhere under the dash to control the function of the BLK relay wire to ground. Any loose BLK wires lounging around the relay area?
Its inside the Harness-----if you pull the blk theft warning relay out so you see the wires coming in ----it would be purple base---and on this base (relay base) its

WHT BRN/WHT<-----i can trace this one to the starter relay

RED BRN/WHT<-----I can trace this one over to the AUTO CRTL BOX to number 25---3rd over from center bolt--------but before it goes into AUTO CRTL it turns into a black wire???


IM pulling the front harness out from passenger side to left front head light ---and unloom it to get a better view....

IT seems factory

Turning black seems to be for ground but why at the ctrl unit???
 

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So the more I ponder this still seems like a missing power feed tied to both circuits ( or ground )

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Vigman said:
Ummm couldn't you just buzz it out with an ohm meter?

Mike
lol i did that --but you know how nissan is---they splice into wires here and there ---i want to make sure its one long wire with no breaks or other wires coming off it



Mike I bet if you went to your car an pulled the theft warning relay out ---then looked under the female base---you prob have 2 brn wires---i'm gonna check out the FSM later to see if i can fig it out

CAN ANYONE give me info on the extra fuse block (with 3 fuses) --in my daughters car?? the cover is the same as my cother cars so i dont know what these are YET!! I guess i need to pull them
 

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Discussion Starter #48
hhhmmm seem to have to do with year model---just looked at a 95 and it has 4 fuse blocks?? but his cover was faded

anyone have the break down of these fuses??
 

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Discussion Starter #51
put the new TPS on ---

car started but died in 10 sec---still the same but now getting a code 34----knock sensor??

well off to work for 16hours--but when i get home im gonna makesure i didnt cross the VTC and DET wires on the drivers side

^^^^^^ could this be why it wouldnt run for more than 10 seconds???

I hope so----then off to fig why the key switch wont work without bypass!!!

Man i love my bugaru!!!!
 

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I believe all the top caps for the underhood fuse panel are generic and stickers are added or removed for certain variants....

I think until your get the tranny solenoid to unlock normally, feeding power to other circuits your going to be S.O.L. and stuck in the 10 sec run mode...
 

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Discussion Starter #54
^^^ I believe ur right!!! if i can fig ut why the key switch wont work then i'd b getn somewhere

im starting to believe that the theft warning relay with two brns is for stick while the one with one BLK and a brn is auto
 

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Either way just ground the line out on the Starter relay side... that way the key will work.

Again, I think a power feed is missing....
You say you have a new engine harness in correct?
the multi pin going to the ECU is on & clean and the 6 ( or 8 pin ) that is with that harness is plugged in as well?
 

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Discussion Starter #56
yep all checked out!!!

if i just ground it out --besides that it will crank in all gears what other harm is there???

i could always install a push button(to ground it) and turn the key maybe???

gotta fig it out ----


ok if the brn/yel on the theft relay goes to the starter relay then i guess it changes colors along the way to brn/wht?????

lets see wires out of starter relay are
brn/wht
blk/wht
wht
blk/yel<---- to theft relay

and theft relay is
wht
red
blk or brn
brn/yel <--------to starter relay

so i guess they change colors?? i dont see it on the FSM

well must work...cant keep going over my notes and pics ---gotta feed family LOL

THX MIKE!!! & Others----keep posting thoughts!!
 

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Starter relay wiring ( 1991 )

E3 ( 1991 )
CONTACTORS
Black/ yellow
Black/ White ( From key switch )


Brown / White 1 side of coil ( path to ground VIA theft relay )

Other side of coil
Black/ white ( jump from above ) Start line from Key ( MANUAL )
White ( same but through the neutral saftey switch for AUTO )

Anti theft relay 1991

To E-9 ( theft warning relay ) you need to find this
5 pin connector

Contactors

Brown / white To starter relay coil
White From Key switch !!

Coil

Red ( small gauge ) to E 103/M-8 changes to orange to M-91 of theft control unit
Black to ground ( Small gauge ) in auto version
Brown to clutch switch then to ground manual version

Note if the theft MODULE is activated the relay will pull in
the red line goes high ( +12 ) and the coil engages..

This OPENS the Key line so:
White From Key switch !! never makes it to
Brown / white To starter relay coil

And the starter relay coil will not engage!

So no juice to the starter solenoid.


and the canadian version
http://www.zcar.com/90-96_tech_discussion_forum/no_starter_relay_all_901618.0.html
 

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I'm quoting from the 1991 book
The 90 might be different?
In the FSM posted here it doesn't show the anti theft relay, so no love there.....
 

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So suspect of many things still:

One side of the injectors is hot all the time & the ground pulses come from the ECM..
Maybe a noid light would be in order on the next attempt to see if you loose pulses...

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #60
OK half asleep --but zx on the lobe

I checked the VTC out to makesure the i didnt mix it up with the det sensor---chks out good

so I thought i would start it ----grounding out the relay

car ran (Idle 600-900) for a good 4 to 5 mins------but if you give it gas it just dies out ---like flooding out ----

IF you just let it idle ---it will only do that for 4-5 min!!
It starts right back up everytime

I wonder if the 20 year old IAC has gone bad??

code 55

I did unhook the battery ---to reset the ecu-----

and tried again and still same as above

well off to bed
 
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