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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought my Z that has been sitting for a few years before hand. The necessary parts have been rebuilt but it still has some kinks to work out. In the morning when it is cold, it starts perfectly fine. But after I take it somewhere and it has been running for awhile, when i try to start it up it tries to turn over for a bit and then makes somewhat of a gurgling sound. The guy who worked on it said something about sensors but he is too busy to really help me. Any ideas?
 

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The term "Heat Soak" has been used for this condition. The underhood temperature rises after the engine is warm from driving and then shut off. The fuel in the line bubbles/boils due to no air circulation in the engine compartment, the exhaust manifold design, etc...typical for this model.
 

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Start with the basics...

I know that we've all heard it many times...

But check all the basic stuff first.

As with any L-series engine, check the valve-adjustment first.
Make sure that the valves are not too tight when the engine is cold.
I know you said there's no problem when cold, but do this first.

Check the fuel pressure, especially after the engine has run a while and been at full operating temp for some time. Should be somewhere around
34-psi with vacuum-line on the FPR connected and approx. 44-psi with the vacuum-line disconnected.

Check the fuel-filter, if you haven't already replaced it. If the tank and lines are really rusted it's possible even the new-filter could be clogged.

Check the ignition-timing. Make sure it's at least close to spec. at idle.

Check for vacuum leaks. I like to use spray carb-cleaner. Use the straw and give each test area a brief-squirt then wait at couple of seconds for it to get sucked-up or evaporate then go to the next suspect spot.
Pay special attention to where the intake manifold meets the head and at each injector o-ring.

Doen't forget to take a good look at all those vacuum-hoses too.

Is the brake vacuum-booster a vacuum leak...Check it!

Make sure that the cold-start injector IS NOT! working when the engine is anything but stone cold!

Last but certainly not least...Check for the famous corrosion-at-the-connectors at the CTS and each of the injectors. If corroded, scrape, scrape and scrape carefully both the male and female parts of each of those brass-pins and contacts of the connectors.

Make sure that the engine is full of water/coolant. Because the CTS can't read the temp correctly if it isn't full.

After you've done this stuff...

Pull-out and examine the spark-plugs...Because they always tell a story.
And they never lie!!
Make sure you keep them in order, so you can tell whats hapening inside each exact cylinder.

Check the plugs right after the car will not start, because this will give you much info as to why it won't start when hot.

Be warned! If they read very dark or even black, that doesn't always mean that it's not starting because the mixture during hot-start is too rich.

Huhh?

It's possible that the hot-cranking mixture could actually be just right or even lean...But all other throttle positions and running is too rich!
If this is the case, those fouled plugs just can't start the engine unless it's at least a bit rich during hot-cranking.

The reverse of the above could keep it from starting during hot cranking.

Again, these are just SOME of the basics...
But this may be a good place to start!

Patience and persistance will yield solutions and positive results!

Do not hesitate to examine suggestions from other folks here, as there are a LOT! of good people here who can help!

Let us know what you find.

Good luck......ase mat
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks a ton man. To be honest tho, I'm fairly new with cars so this is a bit over my head. I can follow your instructions easily, but identifying what you speak of may be the hard part. Will a Chilton's give me enough insight?
 

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Yes !!

A good manual always helps!

Lots of arguements as to which of the commonly available books are the best...Clymer, Haynes or Chiltons.

If I was in your shoes, I would try the Clymer first.
It won't bury you with senseless detailed stuff and seems to be written well for newbies and others.

And as long as you ALREADY know your in-over-your-head...You won't be!

If I can do this stuff...
You can do this!!!
It just takes drive and determination...It sounds like you've already got that!

Your 1976 Z is a good car.
Not not without a few flaws or quirks, but a **** good car!

Almost forgot....If this is a California-model, I do have one more tip.

.....ase mat :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yo Ase thnx a bunch man. You took a lot of stress out of my morning. Im gonna go get bustin on this. Btw its a washington/ soon-to-be cali-model. so Im gonna have to look you up. Mid-Nov. Probably.
Thnx again.
 
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