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Discussion Starter #1
In a dillema.

Should i go for boring the L28 to 3 litre or go for the turbo swap in my 240? (i've already got an L28 fitted)

Going to use the diesel crank from the Maxima 83mm and do an 88 or 89mm bore.

Which would give more power and would be easier to do? If anyone has any 0-60 and 1/4 mile times I'd be interested.

Thanks.
 

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turbo most likely would be the best bang for the buck it's not hard to do. big bore can get expensive but seems like a nice setup. turbo you can easily get 350-400 hp pretty streetable where that is pretty much impossible to make that power with a stroker. i'm personaly building a 3.1 just cause it's less common and i like to be different. just my .02
Chris
 

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I would recommend going with a turbo. Stroker kits usually help out mainly torque, but have little hp gains. A turbo may be a little more work(and $), but would be more satisfying in the long run(as you're dusting most modern muscle cars). I would expect to see a low 13 sec 1/4 mile with a turbo L28. good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Interesting, gives me food for thought, thanks guys.

Chris do you know how much bhp a 3ltr will make and why a 3.1, does it make that much difference? I hear you have to sonic test the bores, which freaks me out a bit!

Are there any pros and cons to turbo or higher discplacements other then you get less bhp with boring but more torque. Is more torque an advantage?

Chris you mention that a 350bhp turbo would be more streetable then lets say a lower bhp bore. Why is this the case?

Sorry for the dumb questions but it's about time i found out the facts.

Thanks all in advance.
 

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I chose the stroker motor route with my 71 240z and have been very happy. I get about 225HP at the rear wheels and performance in the 0-60 about 4.5 sec 1/4 mile in high 12's. Besides the motor which runs triple mikunis, Rebello worked N42 head, Rebello cam, and Motorsport 6 in 1 headers with a 2 1/2 exhasut, I put in an LSD 3.9 rear end and a t-5 with low first and second. Almost all the components came out of the junkyard but the dollars add up. Engine has lots of torque from 3000 on but is done at 7K. Good luck on your path. Remember the fun is getting there!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
0-60 in 4.5 secs, now thats what I want!

So if this is possible with a stroker then what 0-60's are we talking about for a turbo with say over 300bhp?

3ltr6pk - thanks for the info. Is the car streetable? This is the most important q. I need answered.

Many thanks all.
 

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31TR6PK HOW DID YOU GET LSD FOR YOUR REAR END? IF ITS A STOCK 3.9 ITS NOT LSD
 

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well...

each has its + and -. lets look at both...coming from a research only standpointand based on what i found out from the research and planning.

stroker:

pros,

TORQUE...its what gets the car moving...and as the old saying goes...there is no replacement for displacement.
CARBS......Simple, no ECUs.....or RRFPRs....no fancy high dollar fuel pumps....bigger highpressure fuel lines etc
BRAGGING rights, i have a 3.1 liter L6..how bout you.
FAST look at norms car...12.9 in the qtr...and hes got a 2.9 liter?
PLUMBING, the exhaust is simpler....the induction is simpler oiling is simpler.

cons,
EXPENSIVE, compared to what im doing...you must rebuild it...get the crank...the custom pistons etc etc. shop time aint cheap. 85$ an hour here.
LIMITED HP, of course this is true with a turbo motor also...but you run out of options with high compression. and....
FUEL! high octane needed all the time. this kinda goes into the streetable catagory...you cant turn down the compression when your pockets get thin.

turbo motor,

(this all depends on whta your doing and who you are. if got lots of connections for shops and painter and what not all over this town...ive built vintage race cars before, and even work on a formula one ferrari..)

pros:

SOUND, to me the whinning of the turbo is so sweet...to hear it spool up and boost is great
EXHAUST, while more involved than the NA, (wastegate plumbing) you can run a straight pipe and it wont be too loud. and under boost, it makes a great whoosh sound(plus....if you run rich and put a sparkplug in the tail pipe...under boost you car becomes a flame thrower. !!!
CHANGE, turn the boost down....run regular unleaded on long trips and keep money in your pockets.....turn it up and add some race fuel...kick ass at the track...turn it back down and drive home
RELIABLE, you have to (well...not really) run FUEL injection, while this is also a con....you gain computer controled spark, and fuel delivery...its nice to have a car start and run first thing on a cold morning isnt it?


cons,
PLUMBING, your gonna need, new fuel lines, FI and all related components, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, turbo, wastegate (?), HP fuel pump, modded fuel tank, intercooler(?) plumbing for that, some heat sheil material. BOV, a nce FPR. its not cheap...but not expensive if you do it right. and wisely
FUEL INJECTION, while this is also a pro, you must think of your trouble shooting/ machanic skills, do you know what a relay is and how it works? can you use a multimeter? ever work on FI cars before? do you take all your cars to the dealer? these questions will help you out. if you can do all this yourself than youve got the right stuff baby, if not..think about this....electrical shops charge major money to wire in stuff like this.
STRESS, under boost....the motor is under alot of stress. parts might break more easily...oh...and that leads to the next
DETONATION!!!!! insert skull and crossbones here. this will kill a turbo motor in a matter of half seconds...if you go lean under boost...pistons start to melt...at an alarming rate. same thing with NOS too....incase your wondering.

so///this is really general i know. i can go into a huge amount of detail, if you like you can send me an email....and ill drop you my phone number....i know its very far
but im happy to share info a

laterZ

-Sparky
72 240ZT
 

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beautiful post....N/C

NC
 
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