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Discussion Starter #1
I have to change the head gasket on my 280 ZX TT 83 and i need to purchase some ARP studs, but from where?? (for the head)

By the way my local turbo guru means that the standard head gasket will hold up fine if I mill both surfaces - he only uses O-ringing on tractors with boost up to 20 bar 280psi !!! - try that on a L28 engine and see the head fly to the moon.
On those he makes the grove on both the head and the block and use copper wire on the block side to force the gasket to make a lump up in to the head - unbreakable he says.

I have a Motorsport catalog and the only reinforced head gaskets they have has a bore of 91 mm in either 1 or 2mm thickness.
I MEAN THEY ARE USELESS!!!!!(unless uoy have 91mm pistons.

Where can i find a cupper gasket that fits my standard pistons and have the standard thickness- i thought Motorsport had everything??

Let the boost be with you.

Brian Madsen
 

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Re: Where can i get the ARP studs??look O-ringing

Did you say Twin Turbo??? Top End Performance sells the head studs for $125(818-764-1901). I have them on my car. It will allow you to torque the nuts to 80-85 ft/lbs. The 1mm and 2mm gaskets you mentioned as worthless are probably the best gasket you can get for turbocharging on the L-28. The gaskets are solid steel gaskets and made by HKS. I have the 2mm on my car to help lower the compression to 8.1:1. They are a bit expensive 1mm($130) and 2mm($160), but can be reused 2-3 times and will never blow out on extreme boost applications. I run 19psi on the street and 21-22 at the track. The oversized bore doesn't matter, it may only very slightly lower compression and by no means disfavors performance. By the time you pay to o-ring your head and buy the $100 nissan comp gasket, you could have just bought the HKS and saved yourself time and money. By the way I had a nissan comp metal gasket and it does not compare to HKS.

> I have to change the head gasket on my 280
> ZX TT 83 and i need to purchase some ARP
> studs, but from where?? (for the head)

> By the way my local turbo guru means that
> the standard head gasket will hold up fine
> if I mill both surfaces - he only uses
> O-ringing on tractors with boost up to 20
> bar 280psi !!! - try that on a L28 engine
> and see the head fly to the moon.
> On those he makes the grove on both the head
> and the block and use copper wire on the
> block side to force the gasket to make a
> lump up in to the head - unbreakable he
> says.

> I have a Motorsport catalog and the only
> reinforced head gaskets they have has a bore
> of 91 mm in either 1 or 2mm thickness.
> I MEAN THEY ARE USELESS!!!!!(unless uoy have
> 91mm pistons.

> Where can i find a cupper gasket that fits
> my standard pistons and have the standard
> thickness- i thought Motorsport had
> everything??

> Let the boost be with you.

> Brian Madsen
 

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107,695 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Re: Where can i get the ARP studs??look O-ringing

> Did you say Twin Turbo??? Top End
> Performance sells the head studs for
> $125(818-764-1901). I have them on my car.
> It will allow you to torque the nuts to
> 80-85 ft/lbs. The 1mm and 2mm gaskets you
> mentioned as worthless are probably the best
> gasket you can get for turbocharging on the
> L-28. The gaskets are solid steel gaskets
> and made by HKS. I have the 2mm on my car to
> help lower the compression to 8.1:1. They
> are a bit expensive 1mm($130) and 2mm($160),
> but can be reused 2-3 times and will never
> blow out on extreme boost applications. I
> run 19psi on the street and 21-22 at the
> track. The oversized bore doesn't matter, it
> may only very slightly lower compression and
> by no means disfavors performance. By the
> time you pay to o-ring your head and buy the
> $100 nissan comp gasket, you could have just
> bought the HKS and saved yourself time and
> money. By the way I had a nissan comp metal
> gasket and it does not compare to HKS.

I don't know what he has put on this tractor to build up that amount of preasure - by the way they have lowerd the preasure after intalation of a new cam. I have not heard many Z turbo owners mentioning cams in their tuning specifications -what cam do you use??

About the gasket: Aren't you afraid that the top edge of the cylinder bore should heat up and be a source of detonation. You will have a 2.5mm glowing edge that is very dificult to cool down. The heat from that area normally has 2 ways it can be transported away - through the gasket and up to the head and through the cylinder wall - if you remove one of the cooling sources it would definetely not help you towards a detonation proof engine.

How much power do you get out of your engine with a 19 psi boost and how is your in and out temperatures?

You have told me on another occation that it would be crazy to raise my compresion because i have to shim up the cam towers and it would mean that i was bound to run lower boost levels - don't you have that problem with a 8.1:1 compresion ratio??

I know that you have a t3/t4e hybrid turbo, bigger injectors and a intercooler - probably some other stuf as well.

You seem to know a lot about this stuff and I might be wrong about the gasket but it seems to make sense. I'm only trying to make the danm thing right the first time to avoid pain to my engine and to my wallet

Thanks for your answers I hope that i did'nt offend you!

Brian Madsen
 

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Re: Where can i get the ARP studs??look O-ringing

The only way you are going to heat up the top edge of the cylinder bore is if it was not slightly chamfered. Only small frags of metal or sharp points are going to glow and cause detonation. No matter what gasket you use you will have some overbore in the gasket with respect to the cylinder. I use the stock turbo cam, but plans are for a bigger turbo grind to raise my power band to 6000 rpm instead of around 5000 rpm with the stock cam. Now for compression, if you have a unit like the Tech II you can get away with higher compression levels because of total control of the advance table. 8:1 compression is not too high for street, my compression use to be 8.6:1 before I went to the thicker head gasket. Now for cam timing, shimming the cam towers just seems to be a pain in the ass. Your piston/head combination should allow you to choose whatever compression ratio you want without shimming the cam towers. I have not actually checked my cam timing and suspect it would be off a little. That is something I need to do once I get an adjustable cam sproket. As far as power, I would suggest it makes somewhere in the 400+ range of power. I did alot of research before doing the turbo motor and based my setup on what Top End has been doing for years with great success. No reason to reinvent the wheel!

> I don't know what he has put on this tractor
> to build up that amount of preasure - by the
> way they have lowerd the preasure after
> intalation of a new cam. I have not heard
> many Z turbo owners mentioning cams in their
> tuning specifications -what cam do you use??

> About the gasket: Aren't you afraid that the
> top edge of the cylinder bore should heat up
> and be a source of detonation. You will have
> a 2.5mm glowing edge that is very dificult
> to cool down. The heat from that area
> normally has 2 ways it can be transported
> away - through the gasket and up to the head
> and through the cylinder wall - if you
> remove one of the cooling sources it would
> definetely not help you towards a detonation
> proof engine.

> How much power do you get out of your engine
> with a 19 psi boost and how is your in and
> out temperatures?

> You have told me on another occation that it
> would be crazy to raise my compresion
> because i have to shim up the cam towers and
> it would mean that i was bound to run lower
> boost levels - don't you have that problem
> with a 8.1:1 compresion ratio??

> I know that you have a t3/t4e hybrid turbo,
> bigger injectors and a intercooler -
> probably some other stuf as well.

> You seem to know a lot about this stuff and
> I might be wrong about the gasket but it
> seems to make sense. I'm only trying to make
> the danm thing right the first time to avoid
> pain to my engine and to my wallet

> Thanks for your answers I hope that i did'nt
> offend you!

> Brian Madsen
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Re: 400+ then HKS here I come

> The only way you are going to heat up the
> top edge of the cylinder bore is if it was
> not slightly chamfered. Only small frags of
> metal or sharp points are going to glow and
> cause detonation. No matter what gasket you
> use you will have some overbore in the
> gasket with respect to the cylinder. I use
> the stock turbo cam, but plans are for a
> bigger turbo grind to raise my power band to
> 6000 rpm instead of around 5000 rpm with the
> stock cam. Now for compression, if you have
> a unit like the Tech II you can get away
> with higher compression levels because of
> total control of the advance table. 8:1
> compression is not too high for street, my
> compression use to be 8.6:1 before I went to
> the thicker head gasket. Now for cam timing,
> shimming the cam towers just seems to be a
> pain in the ass. Your piston/head
> combination should allow you to choose
> whatever compression ratio you want without
> shimming the cam towers. I have not actually
> checked my cam timing and suspect it would
> be off a little. That is something I need to
> do once I get an adjustable cam sproket. As
> far as power, I would suggest it makes
> somewhere in the 400+ range of power. I did
> alot of research before doing the turbo
> motor and based my setup on what Top End has
> been doing for years with great success. No
> reason to reinvent the wheel!

Well you have just persuaded me to by a HKS gasket worth $130 and some studs worth $125 - are you a salesman??

I'm still a little confused about compresion but the day the cylinderhead is back in the car I will know - hhhmmmm - I think that I will leave it up to my local turbo professor but he tends to go the other way. He always aim on 7:1 for a really high performance engine and he has been worknig with turbos for more than 20 years but who says that he wasn't lost the wrong way 10 years ago!!.

I plan to use the standard cast pistons and my first aim is 300+ bhp hence I really don't want to use $5000+ on the engine alone, I would like to have some money to spend on the suspension, brakes and bodywork as well.

400+ it must be a task to awoid spinning the car and go with the backend first, even in 2nd gear.

I'l try to get the details on the 280psi thing and post it later

Thanks
Brian Madsen
 

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1,323 Posts
Re: 400+ then HKS here I come

Sure with lower compression you can run much higher boost levels, hence make more power. There is, however, a tradeoff with boost levels and compression. When you lower the compression, you create tremendous turbo lag. Until you hit boost you want your car to have some pep to it. With 7:1 compression you will have alot of lag until you hit boost, but you can run higher boost levels. It mostly depends on the application you intend to use your car for.

> Well you have just persuaded me to by a HKS
> gasket worth $130 and some studs worth $125
> - are you a salesman??

> I'm still a little confused about compresion
> but the day the cylinderhead is back in the
> car I will know - hhhmmmm - I think that I
> will leave it up to my local turbo professor
> but he tends to go the other way. He always
> aim on 7:1 for a really high performance
> engine and he has been worknig with turbos
> for more than 20 years but who says that he
> wasn't lost the wrong way 10 years ago!!.

> I plan to use the standard cast pistons and
> my first aim is 300+ bhp hence I really
> don't want to use $5000+ on the engine
> alone, I would like to have some money to
> spend on the suspension, brakes and bodywork
> as well.

> 400+ it must be a task to awoid spinning the
> car and go with the backend first, even in
> 2nd gear.

> I'l try to get the details on the 280psi
> thing and post it later

> Thanks
> Brian Madsen
 
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