Also can just get Testors (or similar) paint PENS at a hobby shop. Easy way to do this is to swab the paint in the depressed areas then take a paper towel that is dampened with a solvent like mineral spirits (not dripping, just dampened) or enamel thinner and wipe the excess off the high spots before it dries. (BTW for you golfers out there, this is also the method used to repaint the grooves and stampings on your irons!)
To get the black recessed areas easily, black wash the parts (modelers trick). Take flat black and mix with 1/4 -1/3 thinner, then with small brush wick paint into bristles and simply touch the area you want to paint. The paint will flow into recesses. Let dry and repeat as neccessary. (This works with any color).
Testor's Model Master Series is excellent for the most part, and you can usually get most colors. They have both a regular and airbrush thinner.
To get that meniscus look on the sides of the letters, you need to thin it out and let the thinner evaporate, that's the wash method that FantaZ mentioned. You can also do this when you have larger areas and you need the paint to flow smoothly and not show brush lines or obvious signs of different puddles being poured.
Sometimes I like to use Pactra Formula-U because of it's excellent adhesion properties, generally fuel proof and nice finish. The paint is much thicker than other paints I've used, and if applied properly will actually flow out and eliminate brush lines. Be aware that this stuff takes HOURS to dry properly, but the finish is worth it. I found it from my R/C Boat hobby, and we use it there in the engine compartment and anywhere you need water / fuel proofed.
Pactra's Racing Finish has some beautiful colors and because it's made for Lexan Bodies (R/C) it adhere's really well, but it will chip.
With the exception of the Racing Finish, you can find Clear Gloss / Satin / Flat in spray or bottle.
I picked up a can of this just to check the finish, and it is THE closest to whatever Datsun used on the Z.
I repainted part of a Speedometer Face Plate and left the other side original, Other than the obvious difference in new / old paint, (the areas where the spray faded out) you were hard pressed to identify which side was new paint and which side had been cleaned carefully.