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> So, I am going to
> change some of the factory components with
> higher perfomance
> aftermarket parts...

As a starter, some of the things you are looking at will not do much for you. I will work on them one by one. Below:

> Anyway..... Heres what Im thinkin about (as
> far as perfomance goes)
> performance throttle body

This will make a small increase in power, but more important is to match the new throttle body to your manifold. It is larger than your existing opening, and just bolting it on will not make much difference. You will need to get in there and grind away to make a smooth transition.

> fuel pump

This will only do something for you if your existing pump is bad. I would reccomend replacing the fuel filters and insuring the existing system is working at its best. It is very capable to begin with.

> non turbo cams

You mean stock cams? If you are looking for performace increases, and are taking that stuff off anyway, look at a mild cam. The L6 engines respond well to larger cams. The first or second cam that Motorsport has are great grinds. Look seriously at how you will drive it and go from there. If this is a daily driver, I would not reccomend anything bigger than their 2003 grind,(actually that is the part number). I am running that one in my 3.1L with triple sidedrafts, dailly driven. the 2002 is a great daily driver, but may require some spring changes.

> Timing chain kit

If you are rebuilding, this is a good way to go. It really is mandatory. No increase in performance, but piece of mind.

> 3 into 2 headers

I am not personally a fan of the Motorsport headers. And to be honest, if you are not doing a cam, some slight flow work, etc... the header will net you almost nothing,(someone on the IZCC mailing list checked several headers on a ITS racing car,(stock motor, any exhaust goes), and found that only one or two headers made any real difference over the stock manifold, which is very good to start with, especially when coupled to a fabricated exhaust. I can elaborate more on this if you want. You can get great performance from the stock manifold if it is port matched to the head.

> twice pipes exauhst system

Everyone I know who has this system says it is excessivly loud. To an obnoxious amount. I would reccomend either the 2 1/4 system, maybe 2 1/2 I have not heard anything good about the twice pipe stuff. You should look into what a shop would charge you to fabricate a system starting at the stock exhaust manifold.

> 4 row radiator

The stock radiator, or even a 3 row from later 280's are more than adequate. It is when you do things like bore it out over 3000cc's that you start to need something like that. A good rebuilt 3 row radiator will be more than enough for you.

> fan clutch

For a cheap performance increase, you might want to look into an electric fan setup. I am running two 14 in fans,(mine runs hot). The Z runs cool if it is moving. It is only is stop and go that it starts to run hot, and a simple electric fan, hooked up on a thermostat, can help. Then you free up the engine of that big fan on the front of it.

> water pump
Should always put a new one with any rebuild. Stock pumps are fairly bullet proof.

> oil cooler

This is not nescessary unless you plan on really racing this car, ie road racing. The oil stock system is very adequate. If you do install one, pay the money for a good quality oil thermostat. It basicly keeps the oil in the engine until it reaches a set point, then allows it to circualte to the oil cooler.

> hi capacity oil pump

You don't need this unless you are running a P-90A head, the hydraulic head. Make sure you just have a good quality stock one. If you are having pressure problems, insure you are getting a good signal. Many times, the sender or its connection are bad.

> crane hi-6 ignition

I have this and love it. It is somewhat involved to hook up. I have to box inside the car on the passenger kick pannel area. I needed an electronic distributor from an 280Z.

> centerforce II clutch

I have this and love it. I does grab though. But pressure is near stock.

> hks flywheel

Actually, HKS doesn't make them anymore,(Motorsport hasn't updated their catalog). They now carry a centerforce aluminum/steel friction surface flywheel. It weighes 13 lbs, vice the 10lbs of the HKS one. I am running it and it is great. It gives a good compromise on quick reving yet keeping some characteristics of the heavier flywheels,(driveability). If you still want a 10 lb all steel flywheel, call Arizona Z. They make their own 10lb steel flywheel and it cost less than the motorsport, or very comparable, both about 270-300.

> ram air induction (w/ k&n air filter)
Good choice.

> Anyway, I know that no one is gonna know
> exactly how much power this will get me but, Im sure
> someone out there must have a better idea then me.
> Any help would be great...... Jesse
> [email protected]
> 76 280z

If you did everything above, you can honestly expect your stock at the wheels of ~ 130hp to go to ~150. That may not seem like much, but it is a huge increase in the way the car drives. I am only putting ~165/170 but ~205 ft lbs torque, and I run with most every new car, low 14's in the 1/4 mile at near 100. I am still running the 3.54 rear, and run through the traps in third gear. So I could be faster. Be wary of anyone that tells you they are putting 250+hp from a non-turbo L28. That is race car territory, and not very driveable on the street. The highest you can get from a L6 with out turbo is about 315-325 at near 8000rpm with a huge 330 duration, 600 lift cam, with extensive port and polishing, huge exhaust, and triple 50mm carbs, tuned to within an inch of thier life. FI might net you a few more, but no manifold exists to support that kind of power with out a turbo.
Look at the page below, and look at the engine section as well as what is compatible between 240's and later cars. It has lots of good info. Bryan did a lot of research on this, and the page is the best out there.
Hope that helps.
-Bob Hanvey
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