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Discussion Starter #1
Hey people,,
Ive got a question...
I am about ot buy a 76 280z, as most of you probably know...
Heres the deal, as of now, It is 100% stock. So, I am going to
change some of the factory components with higher perfomance
aftermarket parts... I just got motorsports catalog and was wondering
if anyone could give me an idea on how much power these mods will
get me.. (0-60 in 9.4 seconds just DONT cut it)
Anyway..... Heres what Im thinkin about (as far as perfomance goes)
four barrel manifold
performance throttle body
fuel pump
non turbo cams
Timing chain kit
3 into 2 headers
twice pipes exauhst system
4 row radiator
fan clutch
water pump
oil cooler
hi capacity oil pump
crane hi-6 ignition
centerforce II clutch
hks flywheel
ram air induction (w/ k&n air filter)
Anyway, I know that no one is gonna know exactly how
much power this will get me but, Im sure someone out
there must have a better idea then me.
Any help would be great...... Jesse [email protected]

76 280z
 

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I have a '73 240Z with a '81 280ZX motor and have done quite a bit of the stuff you plan to do, but I have no idea about the specific power output. I don't know what kind of 4-barrel carb you're gonna put on there, I have a Holley 390cfm 4-barrel and I like it a lot. But it does have the tendency to overthrottle and needs time to figure out the right jets to use. I've been thinking about going back to performance SU's. Anyway, I've got the headers and exhaust from Motorsport that you talked about, and I love it. It's not too loud but it gets throaty up in the revs. I also put an MSD ignition box on with a Mallory distributor. I've heard great things about the Crane Hi-6 and the Fireball. The Centerforce II was a godsend. It'll grab no matter what, and feels better than the stock clutch. Make sure they send you the right sleeve and bearings. Good luck with the Z.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Nevermind the 4 barrel manifold, it was a mistake.

Never mind the manifold, it was a mistake, im gonna keep it fuel injected.
thanks.

> Hey people,,
> Ive got a question...
> I am about ot buy a 76 280z, as most of you
> probably know...
> Heres the deal, as of now, It is 100% stock.
> So, I am going to
> change some of the factory components with
> higher perfomance
> aftermarket parts... I just got motorsports
> catalog and was wondering
> if anyone could give me an idea on how much
> power these mods will
> get me.. (0-60 in 9.4 seconds just DONT cut
> it)
> Anyway..... Heres what Im thinkin about (as
> far as perfomance goes)
> four barrel manifold
> performance throttle body
> fuel pump
> non turbo cams
> Timing chain kit
> 3 into 2 headers
> twice pipes exauhst system
> 4 row radiator
> fan clutch
> water pump
> oil cooler
> hi capacity oil pump
> crane hi-6 ignition
> centerforce II clutch
> hks flywheel
> ram air induction (w/ k&n air filter)
> Anyway, I know that no one is gonna know
> exactly how
> much power this will get me but, Im sure
> someone out
> there must have a better idea then me.
> Any help would be great...... Jesse
> [email protected]

> 76 280z
 

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361 Posts
> So, I am going to
> change some of the factory components with
> higher perfomance
> aftermarket parts...

As a starter, some of the things you are looking at will not do much for you. I will work on them one by one. Below:

> Anyway..... Heres what Im thinkin about (as
> far as perfomance goes)
> performance throttle body

This will make a small increase in power, but more important is to match the new throttle body to your manifold. It is larger than your existing opening, and just bolting it on will not make much difference. You will need to get in there and grind away to make a smooth transition.

> fuel pump

This will only do something for you if your existing pump is bad. I would reccomend replacing the fuel filters and insuring the existing system is working at its best. It is very capable to begin with.

> non turbo cams

You mean stock cams? If you are looking for performace increases, and are taking that stuff off anyway, look at a mild cam. The L6 engines respond well to larger cams. The first or second cam that Motorsport has are great grinds. Look seriously at how you will drive it and go from there. If this is a daily driver, I would not reccomend anything bigger than their 2003 grind,(actually that is the part number). I am running that one in my 3.1L with triple sidedrafts, dailly driven. the 2002 is a great daily driver, but may require some spring changes.

> Timing chain kit

If you are rebuilding, this is a good way to go. It really is mandatory. No increase in performance, but piece of mind.

> 3 into 2 headers

I am not personally a fan of the Motorsport headers. And to be honest, if you are not doing a cam, some slight flow work, etc... the header will net you almost nothing,(someone on the IZCC mailing list checked several headers on a ITS racing car,(stock motor, any exhaust goes), and found that only one or two headers made any real difference over the stock manifold, which is very good to start with, especially when coupled to a fabricated exhaust. I can elaborate more on this if you want. You can get great performance from the stock manifold if it is port matched to the head.

> twice pipes exauhst system

Everyone I know who has this system says it is excessivly loud. To an obnoxious amount. I would reccomend either the 2 1/4 system, maybe 2 1/2 I have not heard anything good about the twice pipe stuff. You should look into what a shop would charge you to fabricate a system starting at the stock exhaust manifold.

> 4 row radiator

The stock radiator, or even a 3 row from later 280's are more than adequate. It is when you do things like bore it out over 3000cc's that you start to need something like that. A good rebuilt 3 row radiator will be more than enough for you.

> fan clutch

For a cheap performance increase, you might want to look into an electric fan setup. I am running two 14 in fans,(mine runs hot). The Z runs cool if it is moving. It is only is stop and go that it starts to run hot, and a simple electric fan, hooked up on a thermostat, can help. Then you free up the engine of that big fan on the front of it.

> water pump
Should always put a new one with any rebuild. Stock pumps are fairly bullet proof.

> oil cooler

This is not nescessary unless you plan on really racing this car, ie road racing. The oil stock system is very adequate. If you do install one, pay the money for a good quality oil thermostat. It basicly keeps the oil in the engine until it reaches a set point, then allows it to circualte to the oil cooler.

> hi capacity oil pump

You don't need this unless you are running a P-90A head, the hydraulic head. Make sure you just have a good quality stock one. If you are having pressure problems, insure you are getting a good signal. Many times, the sender or its connection are bad.

> crane hi-6 ignition

I have this and love it. It is somewhat involved to hook up. I have to box inside the car on the passenger kick pannel area. I needed an electronic distributor from an 280Z.

> centerforce II clutch

I have this and love it. I does grab though. But pressure is near stock.

> hks flywheel

Actually, HKS doesn't make them anymore,(Motorsport hasn't updated their catalog). They now carry a centerforce aluminum/steel friction surface flywheel. It weighes 13 lbs, vice the 10lbs of the HKS one. I am running it and it is great. It gives a good compromise on quick reving yet keeping some characteristics of the heavier flywheels,(driveability). If you still want a 10 lb all steel flywheel, call Arizona Z. They make their own 10lb steel flywheel and it cost less than the motorsport, or very comparable, both about 270-300.

> ram air induction (w/ k&n air filter)
Good choice.

> Anyway, I know that no one is gonna know
> exactly how much power this will get me but, Im sure
> someone out there must have a better idea then me.
> Any help would be great...... Jesse
> [email protected]
> 76 280z

If you did everything above, you can honestly expect your stock at the wheels of ~ 130hp to go to ~150. That may not seem like much, but it is a huge increase in the way the car drives. I am only putting ~165/170 but ~205 ft lbs torque, and I run with most every new car, low 14's in the 1/4 mile at near 100. I am still running the 3.54 rear, and run through the traps in third gear. So I could be faster. Be wary of anyone that tells you they are putting 250+hp from a non-turbo L28. That is race car territory, and not very driveable on the street. The highest you can get from a L6 with out turbo is about 315-325 at near 8000rpm with a huge 330 duration, 600 lift cam, with extensive port and polishing, huge exhaust, and triple 50mm carbs, tuned to within an inch of thier life. FI might net you a few more, but no manifold exists to support that kind of power with out a turbo.
Look at the page below, and look at the engine section as well as what is compatible between 240's and later cars. It has lots of good info. Bryan did a lot of research on this, and the page is the best out there.
Hope that helps.
-Bob Hanvey
 

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There is only 1 header made that really works on the Z car and it's made by who else but Nissan Comp. The 6 into 2 Motorsport header is garbage. I've used both and gave away the motorsport one, it's that bad, you will get the same if you just add a 2.25 exaust off the stock manifold with a good brand muffler. The Nissan Comp. header is a true Tuned header engineered for the Z's and it's the best you'll find. If you go with a cam, don't go over a 275 duration or your going to have trouble driving it around town. Up to that and you get good power and you'll find you will get better gas mileage along with it. If you want power out of the stock FI you'll get very little there, with the airflow meter it's a restrictive setup no matter what but a big throat with ram air will help a little. Before I trashed the worthless FI and got Mikuni's I had one and it did a little. Don't mention a 4bbl setup, those are trash and the people that sell them ought to be shot. A TWM FI setup will give you more power than you could ever need but if you want the most performance go with them, they smoke any turbo setup unless the turbo is setup on one of their units. They have seen over 500+ HP with their 3-2bbl throttle body dual injector setups. But that was a full race motor they used for demo's. Trouble is they just cost too damm much or I'd have one.
As far as exaust size, don't go over 2.5 and perferably 2.25. It starts to show on the low end torque if you go too large. The Nissan Header is also sold with 2 sizes for high end/low end setups which is a real plus also.
> As a starter, some of the things you are
> looking at will not do much for you. I will
> work on them one by one. Below:

> This will make a small increase in power,
> but more important is to match the new
> throttle body to your manifold. It is larger
> than your existing opening, and just bolting
> it on will not make much difference. You
> will need to get in there and grind away to
> make a smooth transition.

> This will only do something for you if your
> existing pump is bad. I would reccomend
> replacing the fuel filters and insuring the
> existing system is working at its best. It
> is very capable to begin with.

> You mean stock cams? If you are looking for
> performace increases, and are taking that
> stuff off anyway, look at a mild cam. The L6
> engines respond well to larger cams. The
> first or second cam that Motorsport has are
> great grinds. Look seriously at how you will
> drive it and go from there. If this is a
> daily driver, I would not reccomend anything
> bigger than their 2003 grind,(actually that
> is the part number). I am running that one
> in my 3.1L with triple sidedrafts, dailly
> driven. the 2002 is a great daily driver,
> but may require some spring changes.

> If you are rebuilding, this is a good way to
> go. It really is mandatory. No increase in
> performance, but piece of mind.

> I am not personally a fan of the Motorsport
> headers. And to be honest, if you are not
> doing a cam, some slight flow work, etc...
> the header will net you almost
> nothing,(someone on the IZCC mailing list
> checked several headers on a ITS racing
> car,(stock motor, any exhaust goes), and
> found that only one or two headers made any
> real difference over the stock manifold,
> which is very good to start with, especially
> when coupled to a fabricated exhaust. I can
> elaborate more on this if you want. You can
> get great performance from the stock
> manifold if it is port matched to the head.

> Everyone I know who has this system says it
> is excessivly loud. To an obnoxious amount.
> I would reccomend either the 2 1/4 system,
> maybe 2 1/2 I have not heard anything good
> about the twice pipe stuff. You should look
> into what a shop would charge you to
> fabricate a system starting at the stock
> exhaust manifold.

> The stock radiator, or even a 3 row from
> later 280's are more than adequate. It is
> when you do things like bore it out over
> 3000cc's that you start to need something
> like that. A good rebuilt 3 row radiator
> will be more than enough for you.

> For a cheap performance increase, you might
> want to look into an electric fan setup. I
> am running two 14 in fans,(mine runs hot).
> The Z runs cool if it is moving. It is only
> is stop and go that it starts to run hot,
> and a simple electric fan, hooked up on a
> thermostat, can help. Then you free up the
> engine of that big fan on the front of it.
> Should always put a new one with any
> rebuild. Stock pumps are fairly bullet
> proof.

> This is not nescessary unless you plan on
> really racing this car, ie road racing. The
> oil stock system is very adequate. If you do
> install one, pay the money for a good
> quality oil thermostat. It basicly keeps the
> oil in the engine until it reaches a set
> point, then allows it to circualte to the
> oil cooler.

> You don't need this unless you are running a
> P-90A head, the hydraulic head. Make sure
> you just have a good quality stock one. If
> you are having pressure problems, insure you
> are getting a good signal. Many times, the
> sender or its connection are bad.

> I have this and love it. It is somewhat
> involved to hook up. I have to box inside
> the car on the passenger kick pannel area. I
> needed an electronic distributor from an
> 280Z.

> I have this and love it. I does grab though.
> But pressure is near stock.

> Actually, HKS doesn't make them
> anymore,(Motorsport hasn't updated their
> catalog). They now carry a centerforce
> aluminum/steel friction surface flywheel. It
> weighes 13 lbs, vice the 10lbs of the HKS
> one. I am running it and it is great. It
> gives a good compromise on quick reving yet
> keeping some characteristics of the heavier
> flywheels,(driveability). If you still want
> a 10 lb all steel flywheel, call Arizona Z.
> They make their own 10lb steel flywheel and
> it cost less than the motorsport, or very
> comparable, both about 270-300.
> Good choice.

> If you did everything above, you can
> honestly expect your stock at the wheels of
> ~ 130hp to go to ~150. That may not seem
> like much, but it is a huge increase in the
> way the car drives. I am only putting
> ~165/170 but ~205 ft lbs torque, and I run
> with most every new car, low 14's in the 1/4
> mile at near 100. I am still running the
> 3.54 rear, and run through the traps in
> third gear. So I could be faster. Be wary of
> anyone that tells you they are putting
> 250+hp from a non-turbo L28. That is race
> car territory, and not very driveable on the
> street. The highest you can get from a L6
> with out turbo is about 315-325 at near
> 8000rpm with a huge 330 duration, 600 lift
> cam, with extensive port and polishing, huge
> exhaust, and triple 50mm carbs, tuned to
> within an inch of thier life. FI might net
> you a few more, but no manifold exists to
> support that kind of power with out a turbo.
> Look at the page below, and look at the
> engine section as well as what is compatible
> between 240's and later cars. It has lots of
> good info. Bryan did a lot of research on
> this, and the page is the best out there.
> Hope that helps.
> -Bob Hanvey
 
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