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Welding the wheel/jack stowage.

1211 Views 18 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Jaket2k9
Ok I know a boatload of you have done this and I was wondering what gage and grade of steel sheet/plate do I need to weld the wheel well up. The rust is in the middle and as a class project I asked if I can patch it up. If I can do that I got a major check mark on my todo list out. Now what concerns me is its near the tank width wise.

Would it be wise to use plasma welding there or should I use somthing like a arc welder and good ol 7018 or Mig it? I will have the pictures of the rust spot but I got the holes covered with foam at the moment but as soon as I get it done Iam gonna put a drainplug in and double coat in undercoating.

Another question I got some Torus rims I used to get a temp tire on way back when, they come a peso a dozen I was thinking is plasma cut it section and weld it into a patch for the back.
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You putting it over the old metal or cutting to fit? If over the old, are you not creating a space for water to collect from underneath. I don't know how water gets there for the drain plug to be needed, but I've found it in mine before too.
18 or 20 gauge for a patch panel.

I would cut out the old metal with a grinder or saw because the gas tank it right there.

MIG weld it like you would any other thin body panel. Spot here move spot there and grind smooth. If you have access to TIG you could use that as well.
Some kid reading this is going to blow up some crap. This is not a home project. First of all, whats right next to what you are cutting, welding? Gas tank, gas lines. If you are an experienced welder, just use a piece of old fender or door if not a donor cut.
7018 talk about over kill. Use a 110 volt MIG welder with CO2 or 75/25 and .025 wire. If you have TIG machine, weld in a Stainless Steel panel and you'll have no rust, except next to the welds. Coat those welds with a good coating of POR15 and no need to paint the SS.
7018 is good for manure spreader repairs.
Reform it to be a custom amp housing.
. My teacher suggested plasma for the job but I got MIG too. the drain plug is a "Just in case" but I will make it flush with double rubber gaskets so rust can't form if used. Iam gonna have one of the students thats got experiance in auto body help me come getting near the gas tank or else the teacher. The rust isn't on the tank itself just right at the bottom of the jack stowage bout 2.5 in wide and 3 in long. just right on the edge of where it was welded by the factory.

Plan is this.

Get what BGM said probobly few in'' over for the good metal.

Cut the rust out to the good metal

grind the old metal down.

Put the new Sheet it in and weld it.

As for a precaution Iam going to pick up some ceramic tiles to sheild most of the tank while welding.

When done take it home clean up under coat underside and line the inside.

From there either put the drain in or just keep a few rags on hand.

I plan on using the stow to keep my tool bag out of the way with the jack and some other essentuals.

Its going to be same color with liner black and plastically so if there is a slight flaw in the beeding after I grind it clean It'll look invisable in that stuff.

But thanks for the tips guys, I plan on doing this during this Febuary.
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Try making a step on the patch panel where your edges meet, it makes for a cleaner look. Not a bad idea to use seam sealer in any hard to reach places. I would still put up welding paper to block any sparks. Actually I would drop the fuel tank. but whatever.
I can't drop the tank but the rest sounds like a good idea heroe, I will pass it by my teacher while I get things set up. A thought I had that I got insporation from was a guy on one of these how-to forums welded the inside and JB smoothed the outside like how you would use bondo its about the same consistancy but generates low heat in the bonding process. If there is a higher grade version Iam getting it unless JB is the limit.
Seriously Dude, run your posts by your English teacher. In fact, print them out, sit down with her after school, and ask her to critique them. Half of what you say I cannot follow. ****, a few commas would be nice.
If you are worried about welding sparks, cut the replacement panel about 1" bigger all around and use 3M Panel adhesive to glue the panel in place (make sure you primer and paint those cut edges first). This is what most body shops do when they fix body panels and doors.
use a welding blanket to cover the areas you don't want sparks to hit.
zxtoy said:
use a welding blanket to cover the areas you don't want sparks to hit.
Yeah Iam going to pick one up when I go get more supplies for class. I think its best to do a little over kill with the tiles and blanket, Iam going to devide it into two sections 1 is for the above the stowage and the other is for the floor where the tank sits. One of my clasmates suggested that I fill the tank up to reduce fumes.

Heres the damage, I think where it sits it should be easy to fix its more towrds the bottom, the walls are fine just the bottom is rusted out.
That looks like a Picasso painting! ;D
Thanks, havn't finished cleaning the brake fluid off my phone lense. But the yellow stuff is foam the PO put in to combat the rust holes. But if you can see the rust where its at in the stowage. I thought a little more and I might add walls to keep things from rolling away in the pannels.
welding blankets are not cheap, a few squares of welding paper will do. I've used panel bond several times but I usually tack weld ever couple inches instead of stitch welding the entire seam. From that pic I would glass bead blast it and fiberglass it.
I agree with Heroe, just be sure to get the rust from the back side. Fiberglassing it should seal it from rust too. Did that to the windshield frame of the Camaro, never came back...I did take it down to the metal though. Then bondo over the fiberglass to smooth it out.
I had that thought but I was thinking cut and stight fiberglass. How does it hold with bed liner spray?
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