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my brakes squeal alot, cause I lost the anti squeal shims I put the squeal stuff and it dont work. so my friends sister told me to put WD-40 to stop the squeling, I ask how would that stop, she replied "just do it my husband is a mechnic so trust me"....ummmm NO!

Personalaly I dont think it will do anything but prevent me from stopping.
 
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no. oil and brakes are just a bad idea. Brakes need friction to stop the car. Oil lubricates removing friction. So your brakes will work worse. If a mechanic recommended this, I would say he is an idiot. And I am a mechanic.
 

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No-oo-oo-oo WD-40 or any other lube on brake parts. You'll spin that sucker at 25mph if you do. No tellin' what you'll hit.

Frank
 

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You need to get someone to do the brakes the right way, shims or not, they shouldn't squeek and some of that antisqueel stuff don't work, use sly-glide on the back of the pads, same stuff you use to lubricate the caliper slides and pad contacts and a little on the rubber boot for the piston, keeps it moist and will last forever. My brake jobs NEVER come back with a squeek, even them **** Volvos, I'm very fussy about the most important part of the car. and WD-40 isn't a lubricant, it absorbs into the metal and disperses water, hence the name, "W"ater "D"ispersant the 40th formula finaly worked and impressed the Gov. so away it went. Good thing he didn't tell you to spray PB blaster on them. For now, just turn up the radio. ')
 

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It does work sometimes but it is not the correct way to fix a brake noise issue. If you don't spray to much on the brakes it won't hurt anything. I learned that little trick from an old timer 25 years ago.

If you lost the brake shims buy some new ones and use the brake lube. Also don't forget to adjust the rear brakes up. That fixes a lot of brake noise issues also. Don't do the e-brake pull up adjust method. It doesn't work well. Jack the rear of the car up, use jack stands and remove the wheels. Then adjust the rear brakes up until you feel a drag on the drums when spinning the drums.
 

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If you don't have much cash, a good way to stop most squeal is to rough up the brake rotors. If you have a brake backing plate on your car you have to remove the caliper. Use 32 grit (best) or 60 grit for the sandpaper and giving the rotors a nice crosshatch spinning the rotor as you sand at an angle. Do the front and back of each rotor and clean them with rags and acetone (best removes grease and oil), brake clean (good), mineral spirts, or ect what every is handy. Be careful with the cleaners as the can hurt you if you ar reckless when using them and try to keep them off your skin. This method helps to remove the glaze that causes brake squeal. This procedure works very well and you can usually use it if you install new pads and the rotors are not warped.
 

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You also might want to make sure your pads/shoes and rotors/drums are not glazed. I just had my 97 Thunderbird brakes done. The rotors were about half blue, and the pads had plenty of thickness but were also glazed. Machined the rotors (last cut!) and new pads, cleaned and hi temp greased the slide surfaces, and my squeal is all gone, plus the brakes have their old strength back.
 
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Don't listen to old mechanic tricks. They are unsafe. Another old mechanic trick is to put sawdust in your oil reservoir if your engine has high shuddering and crankshaft knock. It'll dampen the vibration and noise. Would you do that? Another is to not loosen anything off when you replace your belts. Just pry them on with a screwdriver. Which then breaks the chords that keep the belt from stretching too badly. But that's an old mechanic trick as well. Works great. Wonder why the belts don't last like they should? maybe something is wrong with the shieve? How about doing alignments with a hand caliper? I've watched it being done.

Don't listen to old mechanics. The bad habits they pick up are horrible.
 

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How about the idiots that put a timing belt on and it's 1 tooth off, then turns the distributor to fix the problem.
 

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John watches some serious COPS on T.V. hahahaha.......I hear Ya gee, I use Sly-Glyd, but that's some sliiiiiiiddddddeeeeGliiiiiiiiiiiiiddddeee......eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeecccraaasshhhhhh boom bang
 

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lol
 

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First of all it's very common for these cars to have a brake squeal. The braking ratio or bias is part of the problem. These cars use a 70/30 ratio. That should be corrected by installing an adjustable proportioning valve. If you can't afford to do any changes, or don't want to do any changes then it's critical to use the right front pads on all first gen z's. Otherwise, change over to the Toyo truck 4 piston calipers, and the adj prop valve. The only pads that I have found on the market that don't give out a brake squeal consistantly is PBR's. Even then you must use the anti-squeal shims and you should use a very light coating of synthetic brake grease on the back of the pads and shims. Stay away from using Sil-Glyde because the temp rating isn't high enough for use with disc brakes.
The reason that I sell PBR's for the past 5 years is because they never squeal. I've seen some pads that start squealing within the first 2 miles of driving on some z's. Deglazing the rotors isn't a bad idea but it doesn't always work. If your pads have been cooked then all the deglazing in the world won't help.
Z man of Washington
 

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The reason brakes squeel, unless the things have been abused by overheating, is vibration, usually caused by caused by bad installation procedures. Any install. of brakes that takes less than ~ 1 1/2 - 2 hours (without considering time for the rotors or wheel bearings, which are extra) means a bad install because that's what it takes to do the job right. And that time is after the wheels are off. Under race conditions its OK to just slap a set of linings on in abt 1 minute a side, but that is not the case we face in the real world. U don't need any fancy setup in the Z to get decent brakes. Just OE shims/hardware and decent semi-metallic linings (this eliminates anything with the letters "RAY" in the brand name.).
 
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