Car starts instantly when engine cold. After warmup and shutting down for 10 minutes or so, engine requires many tries to restart. When restarted, has foul exhaust odor and will not idle until accellerator is held down awhile. Sometimes accompanied by loud shrieking sound from under hood when accellerating. Any ideas?
Warm Start Problem on '83 280ZX
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
> Car starts instantly when engine cold. After
> warmup and shutting down for 10 minutes or
> so, engine requires many tries to restart.
> When restarted, has foul exhaust odor and
> will not idle until accellerator is held
> down awhile. Sometimes accompanied by loud
> shrieking sound from under hood when
> accellerating. Any ideas?
I just put a message on the board for a similar
problem.Its caused by the fuel vaporizing in the fuel lines on and near the head the injectors too
the glove box manual says to press accelator to
the floor on a hot startup it only takes a moment
to eliminate all the fuel vapor (air)from the
fuel lines.you can insulate your fuel lines this will help.or deal with it its normal.I also heard
it is some what caused by the heat that rises
up to your cam when you shut it off causing expansion throwing off your valve lash
since valves are to be adjusted as often as an oil change.Your lash may be way off causing this normal problem to react very seriously on your car
Just an idea good luck
> warmup and shutting down for 10 minutes or
> so, engine requires many tries to restart.
> When restarted, has foul exhaust odor and
> will not idle until accellerator is held
> down awhile. Sometimes accompanied by loud
> shrieking sound from under hood when
> accellerating. Any ideas?
I just put a message on the board for a similar
problem.Its caused by the fuel vaporizing in the fuel lines on and near the head the injectors too
the glove box manual says to press accelator to
the floor on a hot startup it only takes a moment
to eliminate all the fuel vapor (air)from the
fuel lines.you can insulate your fuel lines this will help.or deal with it its normal.I also heard
it is some what caused by the heat that rises
up to your cam when you shut it off causing expansion throwing off your valve lash
since valves are to be adjusted as often as an oil change.Your lash may be way off causing this normal problem to react very seriously on your car
Just an idea good luck
> Car starts instantly when engine cold. After
> warmup and shutting down for 10 minutes or
> so, engine requires many tries to restart.
> When restarted, has foul exhaust odor and
> will not idle until accellerator is held
> down awhile. Sometimes accompanied by loud
> shrieking sound from under hood when
> accellerating. Any ideas?
I would bet my Z that the loud shrieking sound is a belt that is begging to be tightened or replaced and is completly unrelated to your other problem. I would agree with Jim and his vapor theory on the warm start problem, I had a Volvo with the same problem that was the answer I got.
> warmup and shutting down for 10 minutes or
> so, engine requires many tries to restart.
> When restarted, has foul exhaust odor and
> will not idle until accellerator is held
> down awhile. Sometimes accompanied by loud
> shrieking sound from under hood when
> accellerating. Any ideas?
I would bet my Z that the loud shrieking sound is a belt that is begging to be tightened or replaced and is completly unrelated to your other problem. I would agree with Jim and his vapor theory on the warm start problem, I had a Volvo with the same problem that was the answer I got.
Auxillary Fan or Cold Start Valve?
> I would bet my Z that the loud shrieking
> sound is a belt that is begging to be
> tightened or replaced and is completly
> unrelated to your other problem. I would
> agree with Jim and his vapor theory on the
> warm start problem, I had a Volvo with the
> same problem that was the answer I got.
I agree with the belt suggestion. Every since I replaced my alternator, I get that loud shreeking noise on sudden acceleration, and on extremely rainy days.
I know it needs to be tightened more, but I didn't want to strain it...I will be getting a new alternator belt soon anyways, because I noticed a few small cracks forming in it.
To answer your question, I don't know too much details about all the inner workings of the various parts of the car, but may I also suggest two things to check on?
1) Is the auxillary fan working properly after you shut off your engine? It's that big black plastic V-shaped thing that comes over the top of the engine. Its purpose is to cool off the intake system for 17 minutes after you turn your engine off, and to keep that very thing (excessive fuel vapors) from occurring.
If the aux. fan isn't working, check the wiring and connector to it. If that seems okay, then check the relay/timer for it with a meter, which is the first thing located just above the fuse box inside the car on the passenger side, but you'll need to remove the interior paneling to get to it.
2) Just a shot in the dark - The cold start valve, or the thermotime switch which activates it, could be sticking on longer or warmer than its supposed to, messing up the air/fuel ratio.
(?)
But I doubt it.....you're more likely to have clogged or congested fuel lines near the intake manifold.
> I would bet my Z that the loud shrieking
> sound is a belt that is begging to be
> tightened or replaced and is completly
> unrelated to your other problem. I would
> agree with Jim and his vapor theory on the
> warm start problem, I had a Volvo with the
> same problem that was the answer I got.
I agree with the belt suggestion. Every since I replaced my alternator, I get that loud shreeking noise on sudden acceleration, and on extremely rainy days.
I know it needs to be tightened more, but I didn't want to strain it...I will be getting a new alternator belt soon anyways, because I noticed a few small cracks forming in it.
To answer your question, I don't know too much details about all the inner workings of the various parts of the car, but may I also suggest two things to check on?
1) Is the auxillary fan working properly after you shut off your engine? It's that big black plastic V-shaped thing that comes over the top of the engine. Its purpose is to cool off the intake system for 17 minutes after you turn your engine off, and to keep that very thing (excessive fuel vapors) from occurring.
If the aux. fan isn't working, check the wiring and connector to it. If that seems okay, then check the relay/timer for it with a meter, which is the first thing located just above the fuse box inside the car on the passenger side, but you'll need to remove the interior paneling to get to it.
2) Just a shot in the dark - The cold start valve, or the thermotime switch which activates it, could be sticking on longer or warmer than its supposed to, messing up the air/fuel ratio.
(?)
But I doubt it.....you're more likely to have clogged or congested fuel lines near the intake manifold.
Belt dressing?
> I agree with the belt suggestion. Every
> since I replaced my alternator, I get that
> loud shreeking noise on sudden acceleration,
> and on extremely rainy days.
> I know it needs to be tightened more, but I
> didn't want to strain it...I will be getting
> a new alternator belt soon anyways, because
> I noticed a few small cracks forming in it.
> To answer your question, I don't know too
> much details about all the inner workings of
> the various parts of the car, but may I also
> suggest two things to check on?
> 1) Is the auxillary fan working properly
> after you shut off your engine? It's that
> big black plastic V-shaped thing that comes
> over the top of the engine. Its purpose is
> to cool off the intake system for 17 minutes
> after you turn your engine off, and to keep
> that very thing (excessive fuel vapors) from
> occurring.
> If the aux. fan isn't working, check the
> wiring and connector to it. If that seems
> okay, then check the relay/timer for it with
> a meter, which is the first thing located
> just above the fuse box inside the car on
> the passenger side, but you'll need to
> remove the interior paneling to get to it.
> 2) Just a shot in the dark - The cold start
> valve, or the thermotime switch which
> activates it, could be sticking on longer or
> warmer than its supposed to, messing up the
> air/fuel ratio.
> (?)
> But I doubt it.....you're more likely to
> have clogged or congested fuel lines near
> the intake manifold.
Jordan- if you don't want to tighten the belt any farther, try some belt dressing. You can buy it at any parts store, it makes the belt grip the pulleys better.
> I agree with the belt suggestion. Every
> since I replaced my alternator, I get that
> loud shreeking noise on sudden acceleration,
> and on extremely rainy days.
> I know it needs to be tightened more, but I
> didn't want to strain it...I will be getting
> a new alternator belt soon anyways, because
> I noticed a few small cracks forming in it.
> To answer your question, I don't know too
> much details about all the inner workings of
> the various parts of the car, but may I also
> suggest two things to check on?
> 1) Is the auxillary fan working properly
> after you shut off your engine? It's that
> big black plastic V-shaped thing that comes
> over the top of the engine. Its purpose is
> to cool off the intake system for 17 minutes
> after you turn your engine off, and to keep
> that very thing (excessive fuel vapors) from
> occurring.
> If the aux. fan isn't working, check the
> wiring and connector to it. If that seems
> okay, then check the relay/timer for it with
> a meter, which is the first thing located
> just above the fuse box inside the car on
> the passenger side, but you'll need to
> remove the interior paneling to get to it.
> 2) Just a shot in the dark - The cold start
> valve, or the thermotime switch which
> activates it, could be sticking on longer or
> warmer than its supposed to, messing up the
> air/fuel ratio.
> (?)
> But I doubt it.....you're more likely to
> have clogged or congested fuel lines near
> the intake manifold.
Jordan- if you don't want to tighten the belt any farther, try some belt dressing. You can buy it at any parts store, it makes the belt grip the pulleys better.
read your message last week about insulating fuel lines - I'm having the same problem with my '77 280. Starts great cold but immediately after a long drive (in excess of 15 minutes, long enough for the motor to get really hot) it just sputters & won't start. What's the best way to insulate those fuel lines? Sounds like a pretty simple solution to a very annoying problem.
Re: Belt dressing?
> Jordan- if you don't want to tighten the
> belt any farther, try some belt dressing.
> You can buy it at any parts store, it makes
> the belt grip the pulleys better.
Tighten the belt its as simple as adding oil.
Wonder solutions sold everywhere are for people who dont know which end of the wrench to use.And they also make a mess of your classic.
> Jordan- if you don't want to tighten the
> belt any farther, try some belt dressing.
> You can buy it at any parts store, it makes
> the belt grip the pulleys better.
Tighten the belt its as simple as adding oil.
Wonder solutions sold everywhere are for people who dont know which end of the wrench to use.And they also make a mess of your classic.
Re: Auxillary Fan or Cold Start Valve?
Another cheap and easy belt dressing that doesn't make a big mess is dishwashing liquid. Put alittle on your fingures and rub it on the v side of the belt in acouple of places. Don't put to much, it doesn't need alot. Start car shortly after, before the liquid dries. Once dried it becomes sticky. I once had a pulley that was misaligned and it would make some terrible noises and no matter how tight I got it it wouldn't stop. This fixed it. Hope it helps.
Another cheap and easy belt dressing that doesn't make a big mess is dishwashing liquid. Put alittle on your fingures and rub it on the v side of the belt in acouple of places. Don't put to much, it doesn't need alot. Start car shortly after, before the liquid dries. Once dried it becomes sticky. I once had a pulley that was misaligned and it would make some terrible noises and no matter how tight I got it it wouldn't stop. This fixed it. Hope it helps.
Re: Auxillary Fan or Cold Start Valve?
Flooring the accellertor on warm starts solved the problem! It's strange that this hadn't happened in the 16 years I've owned my Z until now. My auxilliary fan cuts in only after parking following long hot drives on very hot days. I've used belt dressing but will check the belts more closely. Thanks to all for comments.
Flooring the accellertor on warm starts solved the problem! It's strange that this hadn't happened in the 16 years I've owned my Z until now. My auxilliary fan cuts in only after parking following long hot drives on very hot days. I've used belt dressing but will check the belts more closely. Thanks to all for comments.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
Join the discussion
ZCar Forum
A forum community dedicated to Nissan and Datsun Z car owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, restorations, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Recommended Communities
Join now to ask and comment!