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Very high idle

867 Views 6 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  lionel280z
Hi everyone. While changing out my AFM 3 weeks ago something weird happened. The reason I was swapping them is because the one that is currently in the car has been tampered with to run richer and I wanted to put the stock one back on for fuel economy (gas is ridiculously high priced! :eek: )I put the stock one on and drove it for about 3 miles (generally to when the car was warming up) When sitting at a stop light by my complex i noticed the idle was sitting a little high; 1100-1200rpm. I pulled into my complex and went to turn down the idle air control and all of a sudden the car jumped to 1700rpm. I thought i must have knocked something off so i checked all of my vacuum lines (even propane tested) but to no avail.
I had my friend look at it and after tampering around a bit he found out that when he made a hot line go to the BCDD the idle would go back down. So obviously the BCDD wasn't getting power. We tested the line to see if I had somehow pinched it but it had good continuity. I then decided to try if i could get continuity directly from the main harness connector off the ECU to the end of the BCDD wire by testing every pin but I couldnt find any connection. I have gone through the FSM and the fuel injection bible but i cant manage to find a schematic of the BCDD circuit anywhere. All I could get out of the manual is that there is an amplifier on the back of the speedometer but I would rather confirm that that is where i need to start testing before I go and remove my entire dashboard.
Does anyone have any clues to what I should do? Or does anyone have a hidden schematic of the BCDD circuit? Im at a loss right now and currently have the BCDD hot wired which causes my car to backfire when its warm every time I change gears, so I'd really like to take care of this issue asap. Thanks in advance, Lionel
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I too have a high idle problem with my 75 280z, and can't seem to figure out what causes this problem. My car does not back fire, but it does seem to run very rich and it also will cut out suddenly with no warning at all. It then will not start until it is good and ready. I too would like to find out what causes these problems. I'm in the Phoenix AZ area, and would be appreciate some advice. DrR.
Air is getting through or past the throttle body somehow.

The Auxiliary Air Regulator is designed to let air past when the engine is cold. It is supposed to close when hot. That would be one place to check. Pinching one of the hoses from or to the AAR is the quickest way. If the idle drops your AAR is open.

I have had the throttle blade stick on deposits in the throttle body. Make sure that the throttle closes all the way. Pull up on the linkage to the blade while the idle is high to see if closes further.

The BCDD is also designed to let air past the throttle body under certain conditions. I have heard that they get stuck sometimes. They are harder to diagnose because the air passages are internal to the device. It's described in the Emissions section of the FSM.
Already checked the AAR. It is functioning properly, not to mention relatively new.
Check the boot between the AFM and the Throttle body, If its original most likely it has some hairline cracks in it allowing a vacuum leak.
Okay skittle ill check the boot. I noticed another very odd symptom today. If I put the car in 4th gear (I have the original 4 speed) and dump the clutch in the revs go up just like they were when I didnt have the BCDD hot wired. It doesnt matter whether Im stopped or not, if I hold down the clutch pedal to try and get the car to come back down to idle while in 4th gear the revs sit around 1400-1700rpm.

Another weird thing that I noticed today while driving on the highway was that when cruising the revs began to bounce around between 2000-4000rpm. The really odd thing was that I only barely felt it. It didnt seem that dramatic at all. In fact I might have not actually noticed it if I didnt see the gauge doing it. Now dont get me wrong, the revs were definately changing so its not just a bad tach, but it felt more like a couple hundred rpm. Does anyone have any experience with this?
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Okay after doing some more research I think this is my fault. I looked into the transmission controlled vacuum advance and it has test wires next to the coil. These are also the same wires im currently using as a hot for my BCDD. Ill look into it and confirm soon.
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