V8 into a 79 280zx? Please help
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umm iv seen it dun and matter of fact the car i curentily own had a v8 305 in it before i got it but now its haveing a L28ET out of a 83 <its a 1973 car> but these parts you need arnt hard to find try J D R jags that run they do a kit for them then there is the scareb z but i dont knoe much about them .. its not as hard as people make it out to be
I have performed a V8 conversion in a '79, and others have done it to similiar models. There are no manuals for this specific model year but the JTR manual that the post above refers to is a good starting point. Motorsport also offers a 79-83 V8 conversion kit, but be advised that a project like this requires a lot of skill and resourcefulness on the part of the owner. Also check out the V8 forums at Hybridz.org. I would start with a search of the forum database to retreive postings related to ZX conversions.
Here is a link to pictures of my car:
http://zdriver.com/rides/detailride.php?cat=2&relIdx=2&vehId=571
Here is a link to pictures of my car:
http://zdriver.com/rides/detailride.php?cat=2&relIdx=2&vehId=571
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hey greimnn
whats the estimated cost on that setup? how much were the parts, and how much was the engine?
whats the estimated cost on that setup? how much were the parts, and how much was the engine?
I have about $5000 into the conversion. That includes a brand new transmission and performance goodies for the engine.
I think I bought the salvage engine for about $600, but put more than that into the rebuild. The only things that are stock in the engine now are the block, crank and connecting rods. By the way, it is California legal too.
I did not buy any kit parts from Motorsport. I made all of my hardware myself, which wasn't that tough. I did not need to weld anything or cut out portions of the car. I did have the exhaust bent up by a shop because that takes special equipment and skills.
When ever you try to estimate how much it will cost to do a project like this, don't forget to account for all of the little stuff. It ALWAYS costs more to do a project than originally estimated.
I think I bought the salvage engine for about $600, but put more than that into the rebuild. The only things that are stock in the engine now are the block, crank and connecting rods. By the way, it is California legal too.
I did not buy any kit parts from Motorsport. I made all of my hardware myself, which wasn't that tough. I did not need to weld anything or cut out portions of the car. I did have the exhaust bent up by a shop because that takes special equipment and skills.
When ever you try to estimate how much it will cost to do a project like this, don't forget to account for all of the little stuff. It ALWAYS costs more to do a project than originally estimated.
I've heard.....
Hybrid is def. a ood resource for this kind of thing.
The only problems that I've heard with this is the use of power steering and getting headers that fit. If you use the MSA engine mounts I under stand that you will need a biger hood scoop in order to fit a carb.... unless you go fuel injected.
I was thinking about doing a v-8 conversion on my zx because I thought it would be an easy way to get more power.. ( rather than workin with my n/a L28e). I decided against it though because of the lack of resources... I wish you luck.
Hybrid is def. a ood resource for this kind of thing.
The only problems that I've heard with this is the use of power steering and getting headers that fit. If you use the MSA engine mounts I under stand that you will need a biger hood scoop in order to fit a carb.... unless you go fuel injected.
I was thinking about doing a v-8 conversion on my zx because I thought it would be an easy way to get more power.. ( rather than workin with my n/a L28e). I decided against it though because of the lack of resources... I wish you luck.
Re: I've heard.....
Yeah, he's right about the headers, ya need the hooker block huggers, and you have to heat the tubes on the driver's side and bend it to go through the triangle formed by the x-member, frame and steering shaft. the passenger side is fine though. The difference between the Z and ZX sb swap is the Z swap is based on a 2" (i think) step back to the firewall, where the ZX has a fire wall 2" further foreward, so there is no shoveing the engine back much. I think that there is a rad that fits with some minor help from an early camaro. If you do the chev, you gotta deal with the rear distributer where the hood latch is, it seems people just use pins or get creative. If you go with ford, you got the distributer in front, no worries, but more costly to build up. You gotta get the hammer out to make room for an auto I beleive, and for T5 you need to make room for the slave - which is apparently no fun to hook up with the lack of room. Some hi po guys have the sturdier turbo half shafts in to handle the juice, but that could wait. I wanted the vette IRS, 'till I went to a wrecker and he told me what he wanted for it. The part that I found interesting (don't know for sure) was that a 5L ford with aluminum heads and intake weighes 100 lbs less than the l6!!! Yikes, that long hunk of cast must be heavy!! I, just like the guys above, started doing some homework and crunching numbers and found that it was out of my reach. Good luck, and keep us posted!!
Dylan
Yeah, he's right about the headers, ya need the hooker block huggers, and you have to heat the tubes on the driver's side and bend it to go through the triangle formed by the x-member, frame and steering shaft. the passenger side is fine though. The difference between the Z and ZX sb swap is the Z swap is based on a 2" (i think) step back to the firewall, where the ZX has a fire wall 2" further foreward, so there is no shoveing the engine back much. I think that there is a rad that fits with some minor help from an early camaro. If you do the chev, you gotta deal with the rear distributer where the hood latch is, it seems people just use pins or get creative. If you go with ford, you got the distributer in front, no worries, but more costly to build up. You gotta get the hammer out to make room for an auto I beleive, and for T5 you need to make room for the slave - which is apparently no fun to hook up with the lack of room. Some hi po guys have the sturdier turbo half shafts in to handle the juice, but that could wait. I wanted the vette IRS, 'till I went to a wrecker and he told me what he wanted for it. The part that I found interesting (don't know for sure) was that a 5L ford with aluminum heads and intake weighes 100 lbs less than the l6!!! Yikes, that long hunk of cast must be heavy!! I, just like the guys above, started doing some homework and crunching numbers and found that it was out of my reach. Good luck, and keep us posted!!
Dylan
Re: I've heard.....
There is an alternative steering configuration on the '79 ZX that the originator of this post may have. It is a steering box instead of the rack and pinion. If this is the case, using a manifold from a mid 70's Camaro will fit without alteration. This manifold casting number is 364747. The passenger side can use the "rams horn" style.
The engine mounts are just flat plates that adapt the single bolt ZX mount to the 4 hole Chevy mount. The drivers side has a 1/2" spacer to help the manifold clear the steering box. With this setup, the distributor clears the firewall by about 1" and there is enough room for a carb with a 3" drop base air cleaner - no hood mods. It is very clean configuration.
I am running a Chevy T5 and am using the stock ZX slave cylinder and have adapted the bellhousing and clutch fork. Another alternative is a Tilton hydraulic release bearing, but that is about a $350 setup.
Check out the pictures on the link I posted above for engine mounts and manifold details.
There is an alternative steering configuration on the '79 ZX that the originator of this post may have. It is a steering box instead of the rack and pinion. If this is the case, using a manifold from a mid 70's Camaro will fit without alteration. This manifold casting number is 364747. The passenger side can use the "rams horn" style.
The engine mounts are just flat plates that adapt the single bolt ZX mount to the 4 hole Chevy mount. The drivers side has a 1/2" spacer to help the manifold clear the steering box. With this setup, the distributor clears the firewall by about 1" and there is enough room for a carb with a 3" drop base air cleaner - no hood mods. It is very clean configuration.
I am running a Chevy T5 and am using the stock ZX slave cylinder and have adapted the bellhousing and clutch fork. Another alternative is a Tilton hydraulic release bearing, but that is about a $350 setup.
Check out the pictures on the link I posted above for engine mounts and manifold details.
Greimann,
Do you have the chev mounts centered on the X member? Have you had your car weighed since the swap? Aluminum heads+intake? I'm curious if it sets more weight on the front end.
Do you have the chev mounts centered on the X member? Have you had your car weighed since the swap? Aluminum heads+intake? I'm curious if it sets more weight on the front end.
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Stop over at the web site dedicated to...
Hybrid Z cars http://www.hybridz.org/ and ask your questions there. Also, here is a link to the above mentioned Jags That Run web site http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html
If you use light weight parts (i.e. aluminum heads, waterpump, manifold, as well as a small starter and headers the engine will not weigh any more than the one you removed. Also, since it is a V configuration, the weight will be lower and farther back in the car. This will change the weight distrinution from about 52% front 48% rear to just about 50% - 50%. So the answer to your question is - there will be less weight on the front suspension.
I have a 365 HP 327 Chevy in my 1971 240Z based 1962 Ferrari 250 GTO replicar http://www.ofoto.com/BrowsePhotos.jsp?UV=969766190741_80589458103&US=0&collid=49144495103
Hybrid Z cars http://www.hybridz.org/ and ask your questions there. Also, here is a link to the above mentioned Jags That Run web site http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html
If you use light weight parts (i.e. aluminum heads, waterpump, manifold, as well as a small starter and headers the engine will not weigh any more than the one you removed. Also, since it is a V configuration, the weight will be lower and farther back in the car. This will change the weight distrinution from about 52% front 48% rear to just about 50% - 50%. So the answer to your question is - there will be less weight on the front suspension.
I have a 365 HP 327 Chevy in my 1971 240Z based 1962 Ferrari 250 GTO replicar http://www.ofoto.com/BrowsePhotos.jsp?UV=969766190741_80589458103&US=0&collid=49144495103
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