upgades for 90 300zx na

Before you get blasted.. Know this.. The N/A does not reach the 300 HP mark with bolt ons... If you want 300 HP get a TT.. Also the search bar does wonders

I also have a 1990 2+2 n/a. You won't ever get anywhere close to 300hp without a TT motor or possibly nitro

welcome and to answer your question with a little more thought... it can be done but its not cost effective.

Some have bored it, stroked it, oversized the valves, changed cams, had head work done, pulley, flywheel, headers, remapped ECU, and kinda got there.

Others have swapped to TT, gutted the precats and got 320+

when I was NA I had a "high flow" filter and headers... noticed no difference whatsoever on engine response... bottom line, the NA engine was built as efficient as it could've been, so it won't respond well to just bolt on math

ok thanks for the insight, so what do you guys think would be the best hp upgades as far as bang for my buck ,i was just using 300hp for a number, I just want a little more power for a little weekend fun and maybe a little red light action. btw thanks for the timely replies
Jason

lightweight pulley and lightweight flywheel the rest will go by unnoticed

there was a way back in the day when I was in n/a.(nice little rhyme there). I will tell you from experience it's not very cost effective but I was different . I added a supercharger after all the bolt ons headers, exhaust, intake, ecu ect... I'm sure I'm opening up a can of worms just mentioning it so do a search . after researching that you will know everything you need to know on why not to go supercharger.

No offense, but you have an n/a 2+2.
with that being said, update/upgrade your suspension and brakes. don't waste your time or money on anything else. have fun with and learn the car. then re-evaluate if you need more power.
if so, ditch the n/a 2+2 and get a tt.
baby steps.

thanks for the replies what brake and suspension upgrades would you suggest zman

On my 1990 NA, I had sub-frame spacers put on. They work to reduce lean and may help to increase sub-frame life. You can look at the easier energy suspension parts and larger swaybar. Some folks like the KYB adjustable struts/shocks if you track. I found some nice slotted/drilled rotors on e-bay. This is what I learned from reading posts, not an expert.

Thanks Jim I'll check into that.

Ok I've done a little research and this is what i've come up with i'm going with suspension first. I want to do new struts, sway bars ,and probably strut bars. but right now I want to start with struts, its down to :kyb agx , tokico illumina, or koni sport, also i'm not lowering it so do i need to change springs and do i need a camber kit and what bushings should i replace (do the struts come with any of these bushings) i don't mind spending alittle more to get it right but the more I can save here the more i can spend on another upgrade. I don't know much about suspension and this is alittle confusing all I want is a good middle between handling and ride quality I could handle a little harsher ride if i had to since it's not a DD ,please let me know if i've missed something.

Thanks guys Jason

I'd replace springs if you are replacing everything else. They are most likely sagged if never replaced and they never sag evenly.

Tennezboy90na said:

thanks for the replies what brake and suspension upgrades would you suggest zman

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For brakes, upgrade your brake lines to stainless steel ones, get a master cylinder brake brace, new pads AND rotors, possibly rebuild your calipers (you can paint them too while you're there), and fresh fluid.
For suspension, you can upgrade to non-adj./adj. anti-sway bars (and if you want adj. end links), adjustable upper control arms (front and rear), adjustable shocks WITH new springs, poly-u bushings throughout suspension, adj. tension arms, and front and rear strut bars. Oh, might as well replace the steering rack bushings too.
If you replace all of that your z will feel better than new, like you're riding on rails. You'll gain your speed through the corners, leaving others behind, and be able to stop very well with a SOLID pedal feel to the brakes.
After that, you should focus on engine performance.

z_man_95 said:

For brakes, upgrade your brake lines to stainless steel ones, get a master cylinder brake brace, new pads AND rotors, possibly rebuild your calipers (you can paint them too while you're there), and fresh fluid.

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stainless steel lines for stock brakes?

I can't see how that would be an upgrade if the car won't be abused... care to share any light on that?

Thanks zman, I'm trying to come up with a price list for your suspension recommendations to see what kinda damage i'm looking at, I think brakes will be the next thing but it seems to be the opinion of everybody here that engine mods would be a waste of money for an na. I would consider getting a tt but they few and far between in my area and if you do find on they are seriously overpriced.

Jason

salvadoran300zx said:

stainless steel lines for stock brakes?

I can't see how that would be an upgrade if the car won't be abused... care to share any light on that?

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His z most likely has stock lines, and the rubber is old and probably ready to crack. All the new components plus better pressure application will put a strain on the old rubber. So for peace of mind replace the lines. And why not stainless steel ones?

Stainless steel braided lines and 300 degree BMC brace are very good upgrades, I paid just over $150 for the two. For suspension: Eibach(sp) pro springs, KYB shocks and suspension tech sway bars with all ES bushings were just under $900 CDN dollars. Hope that helps

also I might add that the stainless steal lines not only look cool, but also give you a very firm feel when stopping because there is no rubber to expanded and contract slightly when hitting the brakes. with a master cylinder brace, brakes, rotors, pads and lines, you will feel your car is stopping at its highest potential