a dynamic damper is a device intended to damp out a vibration by setting up forces to oppose the vibrational motion.
Uhh.. wtf is this?
So I dropped my subframe in the garage today... Not that hard by the way, took 2-3 hours. But i noticed this... Its a rubber held bushing of some sort, held in by 3 12mm bolts. Wtf is it? Courtesy says it is a dynamic damper assembly but wtf does it do??
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Gotcha. Since they are 95 bucks each... i'll pass on replacing these, they look fine though so I'm not worried. My subframe bushings however, 3 out of 4 are dry, all are collapsed and fubar.
It's probably just added weight--inertial mass.
"dynamic damper assembly". Like calling the winter blues "seasonal affliction disorder". Arrrrrrrrrrrrgh
"dynamic damper assembly". Like calling the winter blues "seasonal affliction disorder". Arrrrrrrrrrrrgh
Thats the first ive seen those on a subframe..
Luminar...I have those in my '90...I had the same reaction first time I saw one. FWIW...I'd wonder how much they "do" for vibrations... I'd love to put in solid subframe bushings and remove those to see what the resultant vibrations would be...
I've heard that solid sub frame bushings do aweful things to those using leader gears. Dunno about normal rear end though. I'm sticking with ES all around. Also, **** this install lol. Getting those old bushings out is such a pain in my ass.
the first version of the rubix cube lol
propane torch?Cuis-z said:Burn em out.
dave, you do not want to burn them out, there is an outer sleeve of metal that the OEM bushing is pressed into, between this outermost shell and the subframe itself, is a wall of solid rubber about 1.5mm thick. This MUST remain to use the ES bushings. burning them out would hurt this rubber. Plus the oem ones are filled with silicon goo, i cant imagine burning them is a good idea.
I see. I would have probably learned that the hard way...
there is no rubber left when going to es or sold subframe bushings. Not sure what you are referring to. All the stock rubber is removed when doing the swap to either of those other bushings. Many people burn them out but there are easier/better/faster ways. I personally use a hole saw and sawzall to get the old bushing and sleeve out.Luminar said:dave, you do not want to burn them out, there is an outer sleeve of metal that the OEM bushing is pressed into, between this outermost shell and the subframe itself, is a wall of solid rubber about 1.5mm thick. This MUST remain to use the ES bushings. burning them out would hurt this rubber. Plus the oem ones are filled with silicon goo, i cant imagine burning them is a good idea.
woody, i wish i had a picture, but when you remove the two inner rings that hold the rubber/goo, then you remove the 1 large metal ring that those are attached to (the ring with the rivet), you are left with one final metal sleeve. This sleeve has rubber between it and the subframe itself. Correct?
Not on any of the subframes I have done this on.
I don't see it. And like I said it's not there on any of the ones I have done (6+). I've done ES and solids where you take all of them out and there is no rubber. Are you saying when you took that ring out the whole thing was covered? Or are you looking at just the top area there where the whole area is covered in rubber from the factory.
Ah, you did solids. the Energy urethane bushings require you to leave that piece in the far right of your picture in the car. It specifically tells you to be careful not to remove that sleeve. for the ES bushings only the middle and left pieces are removed.
I cut mine off. Dea weight in my opinion. They are only present on the NA 5spd cars. All TT's and Auto's do not have them from what I recall.
The are about 2~3lbs each side. I cut mine off when I did my solid subframe and urethane diff bushings. I m running the stock NA Diff and have not noticied anything off as a result.
The are about 2~3lbs each side. I cut mine off when I did my solid subframe and urethane diff bushings. I m running the stock NA Diff and have not noticied anything off as a result.
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