I would think 210+ hp with SUs and about 325+ hp with a turbo motor. This is of course with minimal investment into the engine. You can extract alot more hp from SUs and from turbo motors, but for the average person these seem to be reasonable/obtainable/realistic numbers without having to dump gobs of money into your motor.
For the SU setup:
Cam/header/Ignition upgrade/Exhaust/Porting/intake filters/pulleys/N-42 head/L-28 flattop short block/lightened flywheel
For the turbo setup:
Turbo motor/upgraded turbo/intercooler(IC)/FMU (fuel pressure regulator)/IC piping/ 3" mandrel bent down pipe and exhaust/Bigger Throttle body
This is my opinion from what I have seen and owned. My first trick engine was an L-28 flattop motor with e-88 head/cam(.495"lift/290duration)/SUs/MSD 6-AL/Blaster II coil/Motorsport headers/Motorsport 2.5" exhaust kit/SU ram air filters. I would say that the engine had about 200hp, but was pretty **** quick. I could beat new mustangs and I was running a 3.36 R-180 diff. I can only imagine if I would have had a 3.90. Hope this helps.
that setup is really weird because I am contemplating the same setup. What was your 1/4 time with that setup?? When u said u could beat New Mustangs u mean the v6 or the So called (5.0)?
Did that setup damage your Diff?? I may use the 3.90 with my crappy 3 speed auto to quicken it up a little. What C/R did u have with your E-88 and that flattop L28??? When u say 200 HP u mean Gross or Net? Here is the setup I may use...
Early E-88 with the Larger valves from a 280 head. L28 block with the flattop pistons, 270/280 duration with a 450 lift or better. either my Su's with K&N air filters or these really Cheap 40 thriple webbers I found in a junkyard on this Z. Nismo headers, already have a 2.1/4 exhaust just put in. And put in the same igntion that u have. I will some major porting done to the head and the intake manifolds. What else would u recomind to make my old Z a threat to thsoe Camaros and Mustangs?? Would i have about the same HP u did or more or less?
I think my C/R was about 9.6:1 and I always ran 93 octane, I think you might be forced to do the same depending on how your motor reacts to lower octane. At that time I was pretty unfamiliar with the race scene and never took the car to the track. As for the mustangs they were the older 5.0s and the newer 4.6L V-8's. The girl I was dating at the time owned the last year 5.0 and I use to beat her all the time. My diff was the r-180 and I never had a problem with it. I did have a problem with wearing out spider gears on the halfshafts about every 6 months. I never dynoed my car and I was only estimating that was the flywheel hp and I could have rated it a little high. I would strongly suggest the 3.90. It will feel like you have an extra 40hp(just a guess), but your acceleration will dramatically improve, no doubt about that. Sounds like your setup would be more potent than what I had with the bigger valves(nice hp gain) and the nismo header. If possible, I would recommend going to an 81 5-speed if you can make the swap from auto to manual. I think you can go with a bigger cam than you mentioned. I ran the cam you mentioned and then switched to the bigger cam and noticed a noticable power improvement and still had good low end. The car did idle rough, but it made people think I had some monster V-8 under the hood. I would think with the webbers you could easily get into the 13's and be a threat to any new camaro or cobra and easily beat the 4.6L mustangs, no sweat. I would stick to what you have stated, you are definetely on the right track. I hope you don't run the points distributer if your car is a 240. You can either upgrade to a later model distributer or I used the optical sensor package that removed the points from my distributer. Installed it and never touched it again.
Just ran across something intresting. That car that has the thriple webbers also has a N42 head on it. Would that head already have the larger valves and save me some money and time just to rebuild that head instead of my E-88??
I don't know aht condition that head is in because it is still on the car but would it be worth the money to just use that head or what??
Good call, the head will only lower the compression slightly, by about .2 pts. So you will probably have in the neighborhood of 9.3:1 compression. And the head has the larger valves and hardened seats in it. You would only need to get a valve job and replace and bad guides, seats, or valves if any. Alot cheaper than converting the E-88 head. Also, I would bet money that because the N-42 has the triple webers, it already has a performance cam in it.
Thanks for the answers, I know this is astupid question but how can I know if it is astock cam or if it is a performace cam? It is really weird to have the N-42 with the thriple carbs on a L-24 Block. How can I tell if I have any lobe damage?
Waht would be the best way to raise compression to about 10.1 or 10.2 with that head and block??
Are u going to come to the Natioanl Z shop in Tulsa Oklahoma??
there will be a stamp on the end of the cam that should give the specs of the cam. It will probably have the name of the company stamped on one end of the cam. Otherwise find the Nissan Part number for the cam and see if it the stock cam. **** I say cam, green eggs and ham! Sorry, got carried away! Lobe damage will be very apparent. The lobes will be pitted where they have wiped the rocker, you will know if it has been worn. I would not recommend raising the compression unless you have good control of your timing. 9.3:1 is a good compression. It would seem to me more trouble than it is worth to spend the money to shave the head and then shim the cam towers. And hope that you can run detonation free. I think you only gain 10hp per 1pt compression. So paying hundreds of dollars for 7 horsies is not worth the effort in my opinion. I hope to be at the show if I know when it is held.