Turbo Datsun 280Z Autocrossing in Oklahoma

You should NEVER 'worry about your brakes fading' on a course like that!
If your brakes go away, you need better fluid!

In EVERY case I have seen with people having brake issues at open track days they have old fluid, or cheap fluid.

You run Motul RBF 600 or 650 and keep it flushed every 6 months, or at least before a track day and you will not have an issue with fluid boiling (the most common cause for street drivers to experience loss of brakes).

Go with Hawk or Porterfield R4S pads and I guarantee the braking issues you will have will be TOTALLY related to your tires. The stock braking system will lock the brakes for repeated stops from 100mph with 13X7 SLICKS on the car with absolutely no fade (and red-hot glowing rotors and pads on the verge of bursting into flames by about the fifth or 6th panic stop!)

All the above being said, the second most popular reason for 'loss of pedal' in a Z (not fading, just excessive travel making all the braking occur on the front pads...) is misadjusted rear brakes.

Simply put, if you to the following three simple things, you will be amazed by how well the stock S30 braking system will stop the car!
1) PROPERLY ADJUSTED REAR BRAKES
2) MOTUL RBF 600 or 650 (CASTROL LMA or other high-end high dry boiling point fluid will work, must be above 600F!!!)
3) GOOD PADS (Hawk Performance, or Porterfield R4S)
optional
4) Sticky Tires...watch out! "POGO" comes to mind if you have shite shocks and wide slicks with an undulating surface on the track!

Well, saving money is certainly my MO, I guess a minister's salary will do that to you.

Otherwise I would already have the RS4 pads, I put those on my sister's '87 Supra Turbo and it was a huge improvement.
So, what I have is stock rotors, Toyota Calipers, whatever pads came with the calipers, stock rear drums. I replaced the right rear wheel cylinder about a month ago because it was leaking.
For fluid, I've been using Ate Super Blue and Gold brake fluid Type 200, DOT4, Boiling point minimum: 536°F, Wet boiling point minimum: 388°F. Have had this fluid for 3 or 4 years and flush the system regularly.

As for tires, well therein lies part of my problem I think. I currently have some pretty crappy touring tires with limited traction. Sooo, to brake without locking up the tires, I can't brake as hard, so I have to brake earlier and longer, so I spend more time on the brakes even though I'm not braking as hard. Maybe this is causing my already crappy pads to heat up even faster.

I've had a couple of scary moments with extreme brake fade, a year or more ago, but it was enough to make me extra cautious to make sure I have all the brakes I need when I need them.

Thanks for the tips guys! I'll start by making sure the rears are adjusted and when I have the $$ see about upgrading those pads and tires