ZCar Forum banner

Turbo Datsun 280Z Autocrossing in Oklahoma

1207 Views 3 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  boardkid280z
Just got my new turbo in and have been running it for 2 weeks with NO issues (which is pretty significant :). The turbo is from a Banks Sidewinder kit for a big GM Diesel. Should support 400hp, but I'm only running 7psi now because I didn't want it to break before the autoX.
Went to the autocross Sunday with the Porsche Club and had a great day, here is one of my runs:

Not open for further replies.
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
You should NEVER 'worry about your brakes fading' on a course like that!
If your brakes go away, you need better fluid!

In EVERY case I have seen with people having brake issues at open track days they have old fluid, or cheap fluid.

You run Motul RBF 600 or 650 and keep it flushed every 6 months, or at least before a track day and you will not have an issue with fluid boiling (the most common cause for street drivers to experience loss of brakes).

Go with Hawk or Porterfield R4S pads and I guarantee the braking issues you will have will be TOTALLY related to your tires. The stock braking system will lock the brakes for repeated stops from 100mph with 13X7 SLICKS on the car with absolutely no fade (and red-hot glowing rotors and pads on the verge of bursting into flames by about the fifth or 6th panic stop!)

All the above being said, the second most popular reason for 'loss of pedal' in a Z (not fading, just excessive travel making all the braking occur on the front pads...) is misadjusted rear brakes.

Simply put, if you to the following three simple things, you will be amazed by how well the stock S30 braking system will stop the car!
2) MOTUL RBF 600 or 650 (CASTROL LMA or other high-end high dry boiling point fluid will work, must be above 600F!!!)
3) GOOD PADS (Hawk Performance, or Porterfield R4S)
4) Sticky Tires...watch out! "POGO" comes to mind if you have shite shocks and wide slicks with an undulating surface on the track!
See less See more
I agree that pad and fluid selection are by far the most important aspect of a braking system. Ventilated rotors are only a necessity under the most demanding circumstances. I've raced my my Legends car on both tight ovals where time spent braking is equal to time spent at WOT and road courses where braking from over 140MPH to 40MPH is done several times per lap and never once experienced brake fade. That is with 11 inch solid, unventilated rotors. The key is the pad material and good fluid. I've seen guys save fifty bucks by buying cheap pads and cheap fluid and they are the ones who lose their brakes half way through a race on a 95+ degree day, even if they have ventilated rotors. The cooling ability of slotted or crossdrilled rotors does not make up for the lost surface area in my opinion.
Well, saving money is certainly my MO, I guess a minister's salary will do that to you.

Otherwise I would already have the RS4 pads, I put those on my sister's '87 Supra Turbo and it was a huge improvement.
So, what I have is stock rotors, Toyota Calipers, whatever pads came with the calipers, stock rear drums. I replaced the right rear wheel cylinder about a month ago because it was leaking.
For fluid, I've been using Ate Super Blue and Gold brake fluid Type 200, DOT4, Boiling point minimum: 536°F, Wet boiling point minimum: 388°F. Have had this fluid for 3 or 4 years and flush the system regularly.

As for tires, well therein lies part of my problem I think. I currently have some pretty crappy touring tires with limited traction. Sooo, to brake without locking up the tires, I can't brake as hard, so I have to brake earlier and longer, so I spend more time on the brakes even though I'm not braking as hard. Maybe this is causing my already crappy pads to heat up even faster.

I've had a couple of scary moments with extreme brake fade, a year or more ago, but it was enough to make me extra cautious to make sure I have all the brakes I need when I need them.

Thanks for the tips guys! I'll start by making sure the rears are adjusted and when I have the $$ see about upgrading those pads and tires :)
See less See more
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Not open for further replies.