[1982jetblack280z]

I know this queston has been answered like 6 times, but i'm not really that smart when it comes to the names of parts.


Now i just took my car into the shop and the guy laughed when he looked at my TPS....said it needed adjusting really bad...tried to pull another $70 outta me. Is there anyway to check it without the volt meter thing? Because i don't have one, and i blew my last $100 fixing my Distributor timing and getting new Brake pads, so i can't buy one. Please if anyone can help me it would really really be appreciated. Thanks E-mail me if you must

[email protected]

Matt

 

[RetrofitZ]

Re: TPS Question!!! I KNOW its already been answer

Matt,
All you need is a circuit test light.You can rig one up from the parts of a flashlight and some wires. Make it so that if you touch two lead wires (one +, one -) the light goes on. Disconnect the harness connector on top. Touch your leads to the center pin and the rear/aft pin. The light should go on. Begin to open the throttle. The light should go immediately off, any delay is no good. Release the throttle and the light should go on again. Losen the hold down bolts and rotate the housing until this condition exists. There is more in FSM, but this should get you going.
Retro

 

[zbartsky]

Re: TPS Question!!! I KNOW its already been answer

Matt
I would tell you not to pay anyone for that. On my old '78 I use to just fiddle with turning it a little at a time to see if my car performed any different. To tell you the truth it never really did that I could notice. But, if that switch wasn't hooked up, or if the contacts were wet, I would have all kinds of trouble. So for me it was either big problem or no problem. If your car is running fine I wouldn't mess with it. How could that guy know there was anything wrong just by looking at it? Sounds fishy to me.

 

[LovemyZ]

Re: TPS Question!!! I KNOW its already been answer

Go buy a volt meter, you cant live with out it, You can get a cheap one from
anywere for 10$.
Terry

 

[1982jetblack280z]

Re: TPS Question!!! I KNOW its already been answer

Well i knew it was bad when i looked at the connections and inside that black connector the metal was missing in the middle slot...so i assumed i need a new one of those. And the TPS is missing a screw and there was water in it the other day so i knew that couldn't be good.


Upon inspection i notced the contacts were green and corroded so that can't be good. And The final reason i know it needs to be adjusted.....When i rev the car past 2k RPMs....it holds at 2K for a LONG time before it drops....and from what i've heard thats a Tell Tale sign of either needed adjustment or replacement....


Matt


P.S. thanks for all the help you guys are AWSOME

 

[Zuber]

Re: TPS Question!!! I KNOW its already been answer

Provided all the parts are there, you can adjust this without a meter (by eyeball).

First, there is the idle contact towards the rear of the car.
In the middle is the movable contact arm.
Towards the front of the car is the WOT contact.

First, clean your contacts. Get a small piece of paper, and slip it between two of the contacts. Hold them together and slide the paper between them. This is enough to clean them. Do it for both sides of the middle contact.

In theory, the idle contact and the movable arm should be touching at idle. As soon as the throttle opens, this contact should break. At this time, there should be no contact with the movable arm. As the throttle continues to open, (about 35 degrees) the movable arm should contact the WOT contact. This provides enrichment during idle and wide open throttle applications.

To adjust, start with the idle contact. Loosen the two screws that hold the TPS to the TB. You should be able to turn the TPS until the idle contact just makes. Tighten the screws down. Check and make sure everything is still where you want it. If you were unable to get this contact to just touch, or could not get it to stop touching, you may need to gently bend the idle contact arm slightly to get it in the right position. Be careful.

After the idle contact is adjusted, start opening the throttle to around 35 degrees. Make sure that there is a period of time where NO contact is made with either the idle or wot contact. When the throttle is at 35 deg or so, the wot contact should make. If it doesn't, bend the arm slightly until it does. Check for proper operation from idle to WOT. You really can notice a difference when this is working right (better fuel mileage, too).