ZCar Forum banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,566 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Alright, I'm sure I may have mentioned before, but ever since I had first started the motor (with a new timing belt, water pump, tensioner, etc) I've been hearing a whirring noise. Sometimes it would go away, other times it would be there when I'm driving as well, etc.

Anyways, I originally thought perhaps my idler pulley was bad, but there was no clicking noise, and the pulley seemed totally fine when I had taken it off before. So, then after taking the cover off, I thought perhaps it was rubbing, because a slight strip of copper was exposed on the front of the timing belt, but... I guess that is how the belt is supposed to be.

So now I'm thinking, perhaps the belt is too tight? I couldn't get a ruler or anything back in there to accurately measure the tensioner's extension, but it *looks* like ~5mm.

Here are some pics.









Post Edited (Jan 14, 8:07pm)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,813 Posts
It actually looks larger than 5mm IMO. There's enough room in there to slide shortened ruler (or something visual with 4mm spacing) on top of the adj. arm -- then snap another pix. Probably need a helper to assist?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
257 Posts
use a feeler gauge, add up enough blades for 4mm and it should be plenty small enough to get in and check

oh and my idler never made a clicking noise, just the whirring noise for about 3 days before it broke



Post Edited (Jan 15, 12:46am)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,353 Posts
There is an easy way to ..

measure the gap at the tensioner. Grab a set of alan hex wrenches and start with the 4mm wrench. Lay the flat sides inbetween the pivot arm and tensioner body. Keep going up until the wrench does not fit or fits nice and snug. If it is within 4-5mm then its good. Now you may want to test the deflection of the tbelt. To do this scratch or paint a mark on the rear timing belt cover flush with the top surface of the t-belt, dead center inbetween the intake and exhaust cams on the exposed drivers side bank. Once that is done grab a steel ruler and place the ruler on the belt so the bottom of the ruler spans the width of the t-belt. Mark the ruler at the 1/4" mark. Press down on the ruler until the belt feels like it won't go farther (FSM calls for 22 lbs of downward pressure). If the deflection is less then 1/4" then the belt is too tight.
Now if that checks out you may want to try this.....re-assemble the motor and then remove one accessory belt starting with the outer belt then move in. Only remove one belt at a time starting the car and checking for the sound. Keep the runs short as the engine will heat quickly when the waterpump belt is removed. If the sound dissapears when a belt is removed then its time to check the components the belt drives. IE the alternator, PS pump etc.
Hope this helps!
By the way you stated you just did the 60K, how many miles are on the car? I ask this as the idler bearings look OEM with the paint marks.
MaxDoc



Post Edited (Jan 15, 6:12am)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,412 Posts
I would check your lower timing belt cover. I remember you were having problems geting it off at first and if you pryed on the pulley against that lower cover it can bend some. I had that happen to me and the belt rubbed a little so I just pryed that cover out some and it took care of it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,566 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys, I'll try and check out the tensioner and deflection today.

Maxdoc, this is a jdm motor I just installed, so I really couldn't say how many miles are on it. I have my other motor with 73-74k, think I should swap idler pulleys? I might swap the metal cover on them as well, because the old motor made no noises at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,353 Posts
If it was me I would definatly ....

pull the bearings off the motor. Once that was done I would check them closely or ditch them alltogether. Looking at the pics I really am a bit suspicious of the tensioner as it looks OEM. Paint marks really give it away.
MaxDoc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,566 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
The tensioner is a new nissan part, it was part of the 60k kit I purchased from Coz, and just installed (Only have about 10-12 miles on everything since the motor was installed).

Anyways, I checked the tensioner's extension, and it actually seems to be about 7mm, so I'm guessing that is likely the cause of the whirring noise?

It's tighter than on the other motor for sure (the other one seems to be right about 4mm).
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top