[mwilliams]

A couple of you posted the possiblilty of wiring mix-ups. You were right on . I had replaced the thermotime and temp sensor connectors a couple of months ago and had them plugged into the wiring harness in the wrong plugs. Your suggestions prompted me to switch them today and sure enough that was it. I have been pulling my hair out and replacing parts for the past two months. At least I've got a bunch of new sensors which will hopefully last the life of the car now. Thanx for the posts yesterday ! BTW I still have a vapor lock problem- if that's what it is. After running car to hot and then shutting if off for 10-15 minutes the AFM pops and it takes the temp gauge to return to below half before it drives (acclerates) properly. Any ideas on that would be appreciated. I've read all the stuff about wrapping the fuel rail etc. I've got to think there's if something else that would work.

MW

 

[Zuber]

Cool. Glad to see it worked. Get a FSM yet?

Lots of things you can do about vapor lock, really depends on how far you want to go, what you want to do.

Here are some ideas.

Get an aftermarket fuel rail. When you mount it, isolate it from the block (metal to metal contact). If the rail has a larger capacity than the original, it will not be as prone to lock.

Isolate your factory harness and steel fuel lines from the block. Find every contact point, and devise a way to prevent the metal of the rail/lines from touching the head. This includes the lines that run around the front of the head. Make sure that the bolts used also do not contact the rail. Drill the rail supports so that a rubber grommet can fit in the hole, and that should isolate things enough.

Bolt on one of the Nissan designed "Kluge" rail fans. Really ugly, and barely adequate, this will help with the problem. Problem with this system is that the sensor that turns on the fan doesn't do it until the engine gets really hot (meanwhile, so is the fuel sitting in the steel rail attatched to the block). So, it may help after the car has sat for 15 minutes, but may not be so helpful in the 5-10 minute range. Also, other posters have pointed out that having an electric motor under your hood that turns on after the engine has been stopped can be dangerous. If you have a fuel leak, and park in a garage, the vapors could ignite when the motor sparks to life. No personal experience with this, just warning you.

I personally think wrapping your fuel rail to be a complete waste of time and resources. It isn't radiated heat that is the problem.