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hiya all

ok my first question is i'm sick of seeing those dura lube commericials are those things for real and do any of you guys use that? And do any of you guys use synthetic oil for the engine, that have a ZX? And do you recommend switching to synthetic its more expensive but i'm willing to do it if its a lot better

thanks and Zya
Yuichi
 

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> hiya all

> ok my first question is i'm sick of seeing
> those dura lube commericials are those
> things for real and do any of you guys use
> that? And do any of you guys use synthetic
> oil for the engine, that have a ZX? And do
> you recommend switching to synthetic its
> more expensive but i'm willing to do it if
> its a lot better

> thanks and Zya
> Yuichi

If the dura-lube is like slick-50, I wouldn't use it. That stuff works by sticking to the metal, and on certain engine parts inside, it builds up sludge. This is what I've heard.

The synthetic is better from what I've heard, so I use it. But if you change over to synthetic, be sure you don't have much sludge in the engine. I did, and the synthetic freed it up, and it clogged the oil passages to the cam. I had to flush the engine many times, plus use compressed air to clear them out. If your car burns much oil, it isn't really worth it either, I think.
 

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> hiya all

> ok my first question is i'm sick of seeing
> those dura lube commericials are those
> things for real and do any of you guys use
> that? And do any of you guys use synthetic
> oil for the engine, that have a ZX? And do
> you recommend switching to synthetic its
> more expensive but i'm willing to do it if
> its a lot better

> thanks and Zya
> Yuichi

Yuichi,
There are very strong camps on both sides of the synthetic vs. petroleum based oil debate.
Here is my take on it. If you have a new engine or an older engine that basically burns no oil and you intend to keep the car long enough to run it another 100,000 miles then consider synthetics. I once had a Toyota SR-5 that I ran synthetic oil in from the first oil change on. The engine was like new at 100,000 miles when I sold it. Good deal for the new owner.
Now I have a '77 280Z with 165,000 miles on it. It consumes a quart of oil every 3,000 miles. It consumed a quart every 3,000 miles when I got it 7 years and 65,000 miles ago. It runs exclusively the standard petroleum based Castrol. Either 10W-40 or 20W-50. The mistake most people make is that they don't realize that, although the synthetics provide superior lubricity over a longer time-frame, they don't provide increased protection from acids that are by-products of combustion. Those acids also are not removed by the oil filter. The only way to get them out is to drain them along with your oil. That is why even the synthetic oil folks don't recommend going longer than 6 months between oil changes even if their oil. (like Mobil 1) is supposed to be good for 25,000 miles between changes. Since I only drive about 5,000 miles in 6 months I just use the standard Castrol. It doesn't lose its lubricity in 5,000 miles and accumulates no higher acid levels than the synthetics would. If I had gotten my engine new I might have considered using synthetics. Since I didn't, I don't. Hope this helps.
Merry Christmas,
Phantom
 

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Here's a good link where you can read about choosing the right oil for your Z.

Bob A.

<A HREF=http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/oil.html>http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/oil.html</A>#c7

> hiya all

> ok my first question is i'm sick of seeing
> those dura lube commericials are those
> things for real and do any of you guys use
> that? And do any of you guys use synthetic
> oil for the engine, that have a ZX? And do
> you recommend switching to synthetic its
> more expensive but i'm willing to do it if
> its a lot better

> thanks and Zya
> Yuichi
 

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We're going to try a synthetic/petro blend 0W30 from Esso (Exxon? in the US) in an '83 ZX n/a with 130k miles. It's a little cheaper and probably a good compromise to staight synth. Also better for cold starts in the Great White North (Canada?).

-D.

> hiya all

> ok my first question is i'm sick of seeing
> those dura lube commericials are those
> things for real and do any of you guys use
> that? And do any of you guys use synthetic
> oil for the engine, that have a ZX? And do
> you recommend switching to synthetic its
> more expensive but i'm willing to do it if
> its a lot better

> thanks and Zya
> Yuichi
 

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I used dura-lube on my old '79 280ZX before I had to junk it because of the rusty frame :( It made a rather impressive difference in the cars horse power and the Temp. gage NEVER went passed the lowest line, even when I would race around for hours at a time! It made the car start at cold withing 0.5 seconds, literally. I would recommend it to anyone personally. Take Care :)

Jay

hiya all

> ok my first question is i'm sick of seeing
> those dura lube commericials are those
> things for real and do any of you guys use
> that? And do any of you guys use synthetic
> oil for the engine, that have a ZX? And do
> you recommend switching to synthetic its
> more expensive but i'm willing to do it if
> its a lot better

> thanks and Zya
> Yuichi
 

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How does the synthoil work in turbo engines? I just swapped in a new engine is my 81 280zxt, the engine is a good runner and the turbo is in good shape. The reason I swapped the engine is because the turbo went. Most likely it was starved for oil. The previous owner kept good car of it, and let it idle before he shut it down and everything. I want to save myself some turbo trouble, should I use regular oil and change it every three months? or should I go for the synthetic?
 

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Re: Synthetic Oil is better even after the cost.

> hiya all

> ok my first question is i'm sick of seeing
> those dura lube commericials are those
> things for real and do any of you guys use
> that? And do any of you guys use synthetic
> oil for the engine, that have a ZX? And do
> you recommend switching to synthetic its
> more expensive but i'm willing to do it if
> its a lot better

> thanks and Zya
> Yuichi

One main reason synthetic is better is because it flows better at a wider temp. range than regular oils and you get most of your engine wear on start up when your oil is cold and thick and doesn't flow a well. Changing to synthecits helps in this area a lot and cuts down on the start up wear. I only run synthetics unless I'm running a engine I don't care about or am going to replace/rebuild. I recomend changing it every 5,000mi no matter what the bottle says. My 280Z motor is still in great shape after 250,000mi and doesn't burn any oil though it leaks a little out of the rear main seal but not enough to make me want to switch, I've been running either dual webbers or tripple mikuni's with this and have not been super crazy with it but take it up to 6,000RPM now and then. I don't care for oil additives, I always worry it will clog up small oil passages. I figure as long as you keep the oil clean, run good synthic oil (I also have a high volume oil pump/remote dual oil filter sence I've owned it, not a high pressure oil pump, no good for street driving) and I figure I'll get another 200,000+ before I have to do anything with the bottom end of this motor. Still can't get around valve jobs darn it....
 

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Re: Here is what I found out for turbos

After MUCH investigation on this question....
Majestic turbos in Irving told me they recommend Valvoline 10W-40 for these cars. No Additives.
Mike at Majestic told me I could use the synthetics if I wanted, but the life of the turbo wouldn't be prolonged because of it. He said the extra cost doesn't justify the reason. Don't extend oil changes on your turbo car. 2500miles - change it.
As far as additives go, never use them in a turbo because they will clog it up. They use particulate matter to coat engine parts. What does your oil filter do? Filter particulate. I found a paper on the internet about this, I can't remember where it was. One thing it did say was Why don't the major oil companies put it in their product? You can't find one that does. You also can't find one of these companies that will tell you what is in it, or where those independent labs are.
My philosophy is - if it's too good to be true, it probably isn't.
Straight Valvoline 10w-40 in a turbo. Bank on it.
 

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Believe test dat: Don't but this snake oil!

I am an engineer, and I appreciate real testing with measured data to quantify the performance of products like this that make claims of reduced wear, longer engine life, more performance, etc.

Consumer Reports magazine tested synthetics (and all the major oil brands) by running them in dozens of identically rebuilt engines in New York taxi cabs. They even modified the engines to the older style mechanical lifters that show faster wear.

Their conclusion: There was NO difference between the different oils, and the synthetics made no difference. They concluded this by measuring the wear on the parts (which is what oil is supposed to prevent)

There was no measurable difference between the different oil brands, or the synthetics.

Bottom line: Save your money. Don't buy the synthetics or Slick 50. Buy a brand that has the ASME certification, and don't worry.

They also tested changing the oil twice as often as recommended. Once again, no measurable difference.

Enjoy your ride. Skip the snake oil!
 

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Amen brother

> I am an engineer, and I appreciate real
> testing with measured data to quantify the
> performance of products like this that make
> claims of reduced wear, longer engine life,
> more performance, etc.

> Consumer Reports magazine tested synthetics
> (and all the major oil brands) by running
> them in dozens of identically rebuilt
> engines in New York taxi cabs. They even
> modified the engines to the older style
> mechanical lifters that show faster wear.

> Their conclusion: There was NO difference
> between the different oils, and the
> synthetics made no difference. They
> concluded this by measuring the wear on the
> parts (which is what oil is supposed to
> prevent)

> There was no measurable difference between
> the different oil brands, or the synthetics.

> Bottom line: Save your money. Don't buy the
> synthetics or Slick 50. Buy a brand that has
> the ASME certification, and don't worry.

> They also tested changing the oil twice as
> often as recommended. Once again, no
> measurable difference.

> Enjoy your ride. Skip the snake oil!

Patrick,
Thats why I run the standard Castrol and change oil every 5,000 miles or 6 months. My experience and all the independent experimental data I've read supports exactly what you said.

PS - same pretty much goes for spark plugs too.
Merry Christmas,
Phantom
 

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Re: Synthetic and Seals

I read on an earlier posting that gave the opinion that Mobile 1 is the only synthetic oil that does not dry up seals and gaskets. I know mobile 1 has a good reputation, and is required in new 'Vettes according to the owner's manual. Does anyone have information about the effect of synthetic oil on seals and gaskets? I prefer synthetic oil for newer engines, but I've got a suspicion that it doesn't cling to parts as well after shutoff and protect them from corrosion. I do believe its flow qualities are better across a wider heat range, and that at won't break down at very high temperatures.

The research I've heard about is conflicting. I read the Consumer Reports article, but another article by Popular Mechanics, I believe, showed that there was a lot less engine wear with synthetic oil after the engines were torn down and inspected.

> One main reason synthetic is better is
> because it flows better at a wider temp.
> range than regular oils and you get most of
> your engine wear on start up when your oil
> is cold and thick and doesn't flow a well.
> Changing to synthecits helps in this area a
> lot and cuts down on the start up wear. I
> only run synthetics unless I'm running a
> engine I don't care about or am going to
> replace/rebuild. I recomend changing it
> every 5,000mi no matter what the bottle
> says. My 280Z motor is still in great shape
> after 250,000mi and doesn't burn any oil
> though it leaks a little out of the rear
> main seal but not enough to make me want to
> switch, I've been running either dual
> webbers or tripple mikuni's with this and
> have not been super crazy with it but take
> it up to 6,000RPM now and then. I don't care
> for oil additives, I always worry it will
> clog up small oil passages. I figure as long
> as you keep the oil clean, run good synthic
> oil (I also have a high volume oil
> pump/remote dual oil filter sence I've owned
> it, not a high pressure oil pump, no good
> for street driving) and I figure I'll get
> another 200,000+ before I have to do
> anything with the bottom end of this motor.
> Still can't get around valve jobs darn
> it....
 

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Re: Synthetic and Seals

THis topic interests me because of my own experiences with the stuff. I put Slick 50 in my car when I first bought and without doing anything else it picked up about 200 rpm's idleing, ie. things where moving easier. It also ran a little cooler. My oil pressure sending was screwed anyways though so i do not know what it may have done about that. Everytime I cahnge the oil I flush the system using some oil flush stuff. About a year ago I tried some other stuff, I think it was duralube. After that my pressure was low (like it clogged something), and did not seem to do anything for the engine. I flushed it many times after that and finally about 9 months later my pressure showed an increase. Originally I thought it was the mains, the engine has 214K on it. It wasn't, even though I replaced the oil pump with a turbo. That stuff I will never try again. There is some stuff advertised on TV, they fill an engine with sand and race a viper around the desert without oil. Well, that stuff my uncle put in his primo '70 Mach I and it seemed to do a great job, along with the tranny additive and spray lub. I would use that stuff just to try it.
here is an idea though. Instead of adding that stuff to the oil, why not pull all the spark plugs and put a little in the cylinders themselves, that is about the only place it is really needed anyways, right? Turn the engine over with the plugs removed for a little bit. Replace the plugs with cheapies, $.88, and run for a little bit if it will start. It will smoke like **** I believe. After oil fowling them, change to your good sparkplugs, $1.88, and drive away? This is an idea for comments, not a suggestion yet. I have split fire plugs in my car and they seemed to help a little in burning the fuel from a power standpoint, but I would not buy them again. They are expensive and a very little difference. Has anybody seen the four progged bosch platinum? Do you have to gap four times as many times? I hate that job, although easy, it sucks.
Laters,
Joshua L.
 

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Re: Synthetic and Seals

Joshua,
Couple things.
1) Low oil pressure indicates a lower viscosity oil - thinner or more slippery. Higher pressure indicates a higher viscosity oil or a plug somewhere. Yes, your oil pressure can be too high. If your oil gets too viscous it won't flow through the passages per the original engineering design and the rotating parts will starve for oil resulting in very bad things. Much worse (and more permanent) than loss of power or poor fuel economy.
2) I haven't seen any revolutionary plug design in the past 35 years that was worth the extra dinero. The platinum tip ones tend to last longer but the only thing I've seen that contributes to achieving more power is electronic ignition and higher voltage coils.
I'm sticking with the NGK's. I have yet to find a better value for my Z.
Phantom
 

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I agree with phantom!!!... NGK all the way !!

> Joshua,
> Couple things.
> 1) Low oil pressure indicates a lower
> viscosity oil - thinner or more slippery.
> Higher pressure indicates a higher viscosity
> oil or a plug somewhere. Yes, your oil
> pressure can be too high. If your oil gets
> too viscous it won't flow through the
> passages per the original engineering design
> and the rotating parts will starve for oil
> resulting in very bad things. Much worse
> (and more permanent) than loss of power or
> poor fuel economy.
> 2) I haven't seen any
> revolutionary plug design in the
> past 35 years that was worth the extra
> dinero. The platinum tip ones tend to last
> longer but the only thing I've seen that
> contributes to achieving more power is
> electronic ignition and higher voltage
> coils.
> I'm sticking with the NGK's. I have yet to
> find a better value for my Z.
> Phantom

I have been using NGK BPR6ES11 in my 79zx
for three years and I have no complaintsyet!!
GEO79zx
 

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Re: I agree with phantom!!!... NGK all the way !!

if you want a plug to give you a little more power
ngk makes one as you already know
but i personally us the NGK V groove
the size is not in the books but
after talking to the zcar clubs in dallas
and cross referance i found the size needed is
the G-4 this will give any Z a little more pep
and there only 1.75 each
i hope this will help
 
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