'72Z, all stock intake(round tops) I looked in the articles section and tried that "lifting up on the inside of one carb to disable it and adjust the other one till it dies then back off to be just about right" thing. My problem is the car wont die-even with the jet screws fully seated. WTF? Both do this, and the car seems to idle rough but still ok. It even revs fairly decently. Did not drive it so no under load test. Cant get my hands on a syncrotester so I just backed out the screws for the butterfly evenly. I probably never should have messed with them, but my car was getting about 12 MPG-I cant afford that! This thing gets bad enough oil-mileage Any help appreciated. Just in case, will the E88 head accept a fuel injected manifold with no modifications?
i dont think the e88 will allow for fule injection, but i could be wrong on this. with the carbs is it still running rich? if you do a search for post by me in the last 30 days i posted an article on how to do this... i had ok luck with it, i'm still running alittle rich, but i think thats cause of the float level. have a look at it, it should be of some help.
Machining injector cutouts into the e-88 head is actually very easy if you have a drill press, and it isn't that hard really to do with a die grinder or even a dremel. However, you need another head to look at to see how they should go.
Someone probably has the needles set too high in the pistons. People think the flat notch at the bottom of the needles are suposed to be flush with the metal "pad" they go into, they are supposed to be flush with the bottom of the slide, not the countersunk pad. It's easy enough to pull the tops off and see/fix the needle hight via a set screw on the side of the piston that holds the needle in place. Set the wrong way, you can't adjust them as you have just described. It's also possible you have a float or float level issue? I'd check the needle setting first.
On syncing them, get a 2 ft piece of fuel hose. Put one end in your ear and put the other up to the mouth of one carb with it idleing and listen to how much air whooshing noise it makes. Put the hose up to the other carb at the same depth and listen to it. Adjust the idle screws till they sound the same. Then adjust the linkage between them so it touches both at the same time. You're synced real close to as good as any sycronizer will do it.
I adjust the mixture by turning one nut up -without touching the other carb- until it runs rougher then back it out till it just smoothes out, then do the same with the other. I work back and forth to get each carb as lean as it will go and still idle good. Then I check how far each is from it's stop. They should be within 1/2-1 turn of each other if the insides of the carb are set right. Once I get this best idle, I go 1/2 turn riche on both carbs. At best idle they never make good power.
If you live in San Diego and need help rebuilding/sync'ng ur carbs I can help you. Everything was said and done here on the forum but if you require a visual rebuilt and tuning Ill be more happy to help and charge you a 12 pack...
I was on that teglerizer site yesterday! That hose trick is really slick-thanks a lot! I actually rebuilt the carbs about 2 years ago and set the needles how the rebuild kit said to-a strait edge accross the bottom of the piston to level the needle base on-and they ran great and got good fuel economy till just recently. Oh-well, thats what I get for trusting an O'reilly part
be sure to check float levels. They naturally tend to bend so that fuel level comes up and car runs richer.
Also could be trouble with carb inlet needle/seat not sealing properly.
I've found that the Grose jets in my Weber DGVs don't reliably shut of as tight as they need to at idle. When that happens I get really bad flooding. Also, the Grose jets cause the float tab to bend more than stock needles that have a spring cushion. Gonna switch back to stock Weber needles soon.