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Discussion Starter #1
I own a 1973, 240 Z.

I am beginning a restoration and modification of the Z to hopefully reach something like this car (see the link):

http://www.ezarchive.com/ezarchive/AssetFile.aspx?id=220439

1. I was wondering if there are any online guides to step by step restoration? Whats best to do first, second and so on.


2. I'd also like to find good sources for parts..both seeling and buying new parts. So any recommendations would be welcome.

3. Lastly I'd like to know how the owner of the 240 shown in the pic modified his front end...its longer than normal and appears to have different bumpers front and rear. Is this a kit? If so from where?

Thanks
B
 

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Car has a g-nose and a rear spoiler. Gnose goes on the part infront of the hood so it makes it look longer. ****, i love the color of that car.

If your going to do a good restoration, do the bodywork/exterior first and rebuild the engine while its out, put it all back together and paint and then add to the motor and fix the interior and other small things while it can drive. Then you get some enjoyment out of it instead of letting it sit undrivable for a long time

Can find parts here:
www.victoriabrittish.com
www.zcarparts.com
www.zbarn.com
www.zspecialities.com
www.showcarz.com
or theres more on the links section to the left.


-BlaZed
 

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I also am in the middle of restoring a 73. First off what ever room you have set aside to work on your project, count on wishing you had a little more. If you can, take pictures, especially of the engine bay.It will save time later when trying to figure out where things go,bag and label your fasteners.And have patience when removing tough bolts.... A propane torch will come very handy.I have broken only 1 bolt, it was a bolt connecting the thermostat cover to the housing, it appeared to have a lot of electrolysis type crud covering most of the bolt. Hopefully your project is as rust free as mine. Good luck and have fun.
 

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That's my 72 240ZG 3.2L w/Nissan gunmetal gray (10% more flake added). I restored it last year and it took me 7 months from start to finish. There are 2 short vids of the car at NHIS on my website (www.baddogparts.com). And the suggestion/wish about having more room for parts it a very good one, as is the taking of pics (I didn't take enough), keeping a notebook with drawings and comments for each picture, etc. My restoration has lead me to start up a parts business. I purchased over seven 240s to make mine and our club race car (www.zccne.org for more info on the race car). I'd be happy to assist you in yours, just email me at: [email protected] Good luck with your efforts. I know I couldn't have completed mine without a lot of help and it's payback time.....
 

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As always Alan, you're not only right, your correct.....it's a 72 240Z w/a 2-piece aftermarket gnose, not the 5-piece original. If I had purchased the Japanese aftermarket 5-piece would it then be a ZG?
 

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the last step is to buy all my old 240z parts. I have a mint condition center console, still in the OEM box......absolutely pristine!!!!!!!!! and thats just one of many parts i have shelved in a climate controled garage.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the email..have had a vision for a time of where i want to go with this.
Maybe not as far as you went but here are my thoughs..overall.

I'm not interested in going back to a stock/ factory look. What you have done is most like what i have invisioned except I'm thinking a black to midnight blue transition on the paint..with added flake as well.

Exterior: I want go with the g-nose and small spoiler /ducktail..but keep it clean and classy. lower profile tires/ bigger wider wheels..again not too much so. (which reminds me did you lower your 240?) Also, i have the common rust in front of the back wheel wells on both sides...do they typically replace those or grind out and patch / buildup? my affected area is about a 4" circle. Ultimately I want to have the whole thing undercoated for preservation purposes. Paint wise is it recommended or necessary to take the car down to the metal..or better to patch sand, fill and prime?

Engine: i am going to rebuild the nissan straight 6 it has in it..but with some cost effective performance upgrades(any suggestions would be most welcome)

Interior complete update / replace: New racing seats, carpet, dash, console stereo, door panels and interior fabrics..all to black or charcoal grey.

Suspension: the steering seems to have some play in it..am sure most of the rubber underneath needs to be replaced. Any thoughts on that and steering/ suspension overall?

Thats all i can think of right now
Thanks for all the help

Brett
 

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My suspension is as follows:

1) GC coil-overs w/300 lb 2.5-inch springs
2) all poly bushings
3) 5 way adjustable shocks
4) 2.75 degrees neg camber- front/ 1.5 neg- rear
5) 16X8 wheels (225X45-front / 245X45-rear)

Engine:

1) 3.2L Rebello L28 w/triple Mukunis ([email protected])
2) MSD, euro dampner & distributor
3) MSA 6 into 2 into 1 coated header w/3-inch exhaust
4) Sebring Tuning muffler
5) Howe radiator w/dual electric fans

Tranny is an 82 rebuilt w/3:90 Quaiffe diff

It's not, as HS30-H mentioned a true ZG, it's a imitation ZG that happens to handle better and go much faster than a factory ZG.

I suspect your steering rack bushings (and all you other bushings too) are shot and need to be replaced.

Wider rear wheels means you will have to do some thinking as to how you plan on stopping them from rubbing against the wheelwell. Coil-overs, flares, lower profile tires, rolling the inner lip are all options. Some pre-planning before you start working on your Z will save you money and lower your frustration level....
 

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LOL again

GNOSEZ wrote:
> It's not, as HS30-H mentioned a true ZG, it's a imitation ZG
> that happens to handle better and go much faster than a factory
> ZG.

"Imitation" might be being a bit harsh. As long as you don't claim it is a "240ZG" then you won't get any rude remarks from me ;-)

But I should **** well *hope* it handles better and goes much faster than a Factory ZG with all those mods. You might have been better off mentioning that it handles better and goes much faster than a Factory HLS30-U ( which is what it actually *is* isn't it? ).

Punchline: My genuine Factory-built Fairlady 240ZG also handles and goes better ( and stops better ) than a stock Factory-built Fairlady 240ZG.

bvrettski, GNOSEZ is giving you good information and you will benefit from his advice. You are lucky that you found the owner of the car that is giving you your inspiration ( or rather, he found you ). Don't waste this opportunity. Advice and guidance from somebody who has been there and done that is too good to waste.

Good luck.
 

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HS30-H - your comments as always are right on the mark. Looking back on my remarks I see that the effects of back-to-back 80 hr work weeks has clouded my mind. I apologize. I meant no offense. Bvrettski and I are already communicating off forum on his restoration. And as to braking better, for the rest of this season (maybe another 4 weeks at most) I'll be switching back to regular pads for my front slotted rotors. The Porterfields need too much hard usage to be good on a street car. Next year the 1972 240Z (HLS30-U) will sport Wilwoods up front in addition to the 240SX's now mounted on the rears.
 

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Stop being so politically correct!
When I am done with school and start working, I am going to start restoring my Z as well.
GNOSEZ, my ideal 240Z looks almost exactly like yours! It's nice to see how somebody has the same tastes as me.

I might just buy a daily beater and hire a Z garage in Japan to provide me with parts. If I'm spending a fortune on a Z, I might as well keep it 100% Japanese.

Hey, I'm talking about "in 5 more years" here. I'm still a student/beggar.
 

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1/. PULL OUT ALL THE INSIDES
2/. CATALOG EVERY ITEM AND EVERY SCREW.
3/. Buy yourself a set of drawers and label every part you take out.
4/. TAKE REAL CARE WITH PLASTIC PARTS SLOW AND EASY OUT.
5/. It is not necessary to go to bare metal if the paint is fair/oxidised or no rust, Tried it both ways and believe me if you can go back to the base coat only you are half way home.
6/. Wear safety masks and use dust extractor unless you want cancer in later life.
7 Have time and plenty of it and do it in the fall and spring not summer and not winter.
8/. Paint before its too hot.
9/. Dont use Two pack use acrylic and watch out for contamination of the primer coats.
10/. DONT USE ANY SILICON/SILASTIC ANYWHERE NEAR YOUR PAINT JOB.
11/. RUST Dont cut corners use welding/brazing/repair dont BOG IT.


15 months ago I didnt own a 280ZX. Now I have three or is that four?.
some of my achivements..
http://members.datafast.net.au/~sg4/restorezed.htm



Post Edited (Oct 16, 8:11pm)
 

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You will find your restore project to be a real pain if you don't lay out a plan. You'll need to assess your restoration requirements and go from there. Some have mentioned their own ideas, but it is most important to actually have a plan no matter where you plan to start.
I was fortunate to come a across a 72 240 which I'm restoring as a "wannabe 70" -- body condition is a "9" No rust and just minor dings visible only to the naked eye.
Found a great Z parts car in the junk yard with mint interior -- I mean everything inside was mint!
Don't waste your money on "Nissan OEM" screws, pop rivets etc, you can get those at Orchard Supply Hardware for less than nothing!
Becareful when buying vintage Z parts on Ebay, too many Ebay rookies who jack the prices up on the parts beyond their fair market value. There were some links mentioned in this thread which are great sources for Datsun parts. Check out the following link to Motorsport Auto and order their catalog for $5, they list everything you could possibly need for your restore efforts, you can use their pricing list to gauge the fair market value when you come across items on Ebay:

http://www.motorsportauto.com/

My restore costs so far are as follows:
100% interior restore cost: $40 (courtesy of 240Z in junkyard)
100% exterior restore cost: $740 (emblems, lights, lens, weatherstrip kit)
100% Suspension/Brake restore $1900 (Coil-overs, Illimuna 5 shocks, new calipers,steel braided brake lines, polyurethane suspension replacement)
Brand new Volk Racing wheels TE37 Bronze: 15X7.5 rear & 15X7 front
Yokohama ES100 225/50/15 front/rear
Bare metal take down on body- removed all emblems, exterior parts, glass etc. -- priming body tomorrow and accomplish blocking body filled areas, lay 1st coat of paint(black) in the next two days.
By the time everything is said and done, I would have invested about 2 months in the restoration process and about $5K
I read some Z thread the other night where someone discussed how the avg cost to restore a Z was nearly $18K, I saw his list of restoration items which I guess came out about right. I have been very fortunate that I will have under $6K in my restore project.
It helps when you come across hidden treasures in a junk yard, good parts connections in the US and abroad, friends in the paint & body arena and a near perfect body to start as a baseline.--->I figure with the near perfect body saved me nearly $3K in body work alone.
Good luck in your restoration endeavors!
Hope to see everyone at the Z nationals next spring.
 
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