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Spring rates! A sudden enlightenment!

18002 Views 16 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  steves280
I found the spring rates for Tokico's (240Z application) and I converted them to metric units which I am much more accustomed to.

The American units for the springs were F 140lbs/in and R 165lbs/in. Obviously the front is softer to fight the 240Z's tendency for snap oversteer.

I converted those weird looking spring rates to metric to get F 2.50kg/mm and R 2.95kg/mm.
WOW, those are REALLY soft springs! I am used to seeing spring rates that are 2 to 3 times stiffer than that . . . on a road car! (obviously with aftermarket suspension) On a race application, I've set up cars with 12kg/mm and 10kg/mm springs.
Those aftermarket Tokico springs are softer than what most sporty cars come with from the factory!

I was thinking that spring rates of around 5-6kg/mm in the front and 7-8kg/mm in the rear would perform well for a canyon carver.
On the road, it obviously won't make a noticeable difference if you have these springs (except in ride harshness).
On the track, it could mean several seconds off the lap time!

Is it just that Tokico springs aren't designed for agressive use or are the springs they use at the optimum rates for the 240Z's light weight?
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To give you an idea why I was surprised:
My old 240SX had really soft and comfortable F 4.5kg/mm and R 5.5kg/mm.
Those were so soft that I had problems with sudden momentum changes in chicanes. Plus the ride was pretty smooth on the road.
I should mention that I had to toe in on the front to make up for the turn-in understeer that came from having softer springs in the front and also staggered tires.
I sold the car before I upgraded to a spring and shock combo of F 8.0kg/mm and R 6.0kg/mm, which were still considered "mild" by racing standards for the 240SX.

4.5kg/mm = 252lbs/in
5.5kg/mm = 308lbs/in

8.0kg/mm = 448lbs/in
6.0kg/mm = 336lbs/in

I understand that there are springs other than Tokico that come in these ranges. I also know that these can be combined with Koni shocks for the combo I'm looking for.
However, I want to know if you really need this stiffness for a 240Z. (I am looking to match the cornering ability I achieved with my previous car.)
What are the rates used by those who regularly race their cars? Autocrossers? Club drivers? Weekend racers?



Post Edited (Nov 7, 3:04am)
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Great info!
For autocrossing in F prepared in a 240 that weighs 2100 Lbs with a 2.8 motor, 400 inch pound springs on all corners is used quite often; those should fall around the 7K.G./mm rate. So for racing the rates do go up alot. I used 180 in the front and 200 in the rear last season in F prepared and the car was very sloppy. If I lifted in the throttle in a sharp corner then the inside rear would come off the ground and twice the car went up on 2 wheels. The front of the car dove way to much and the ass end squated too much under hard acceleration (the shocks I was using sucked too). I have not striped my car so the race weight of my car is a bit heaver at 2320Lbs. I plan on switching to 400 pound springs and much better shocks. The car is also used for the street. I connot imagine the tokico springs with anything other than street tires. With slicks they would be even worse than what I was running.
There are a ton of people who have high praises for the Tokico springs and Illuminas.
I mean no offense, but does it mean these people have lower standards?
You have to look not only at the spring rates, but the motion ratio. Remember, these are strut cars, so the springs are nearly a 1:1 ratio. Many cars have a motion ratio between .5 and .7, meaning that the spring is closer in toward the inner pivot on the control arm {MR=(D1/D2)^2 where D1 is the distance from the spring to the inner pivot and D2 is the distance from the lower ball joint to the inner pivot}. Add that to the weight of the 240 and you don't need super high spring rates. I don't know off hand what ratio the 240SX is, but that car is a double A arm suspension if I'm not mistaken. I'm pretty sure it is nowhere near 1:1. The Tokico springs you mention are virtually identical in rate to most aftermarket Z springs for street cars. Your comment about lower standards makes no sense. Springs rates are not arbitrary numbers. They are designed for a specific car and driving condition. Anybody can make high spring rates - that doesn't make them any "better" than a lower rate. I just looked up the 2002 Porsche 911 and the spring rates are 146lb/in front and 203 lb/in in the rear. This is obviously a capable car, yet has very soft spring rates. For pure track cars, the rates will be significantly higher than a street car. That is why virtually every street car converted to pure track use will get higher rate springs.
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I agree and many people "over spring" cars and end up with something that just bounces/chatters over bumps. I think lots of people over do spring rates and don't use large enough swap bars. A "soft" car will keep the tires on the track better than one that is over sprung. 225-250 Lb/inch should work good for most uses, I guess that stiffer would work for smooth tracks. There is no such thing as "one spring" that works everywhere.

"The front of the car dove way to much and the ass end squated too much under hard acceleration (the shocks I was using sucked too)."

If the shocks sucked, how do you know it was the spring rate causing the problem? While that does sound a little soft on the spring rate, it doesn't sound WAY off like you need to more than double it. Then again for the low speeds autocross racing is normally done at, maybe real stiff springs would work OK?
What Jeff G and Steves280 said...

What works on a 240SX does not work on a 240Z. Unless your 240Z has a very effective roll cage that ties in the front strut towers, spring rates over 300 lb. in. on the front are questionalble. The problem is that the front structure itself starts to flex at spring rates over 300 lb. in. (seen it and measured it). I know some road racers with 8 point cages have made 350 lb. in. front spring work with just a strut tower bar but I'm skeptical.

The 260Z and 280Z chassis are a bit stronger so you can go up a bit on the rates. But, anything at 400 lb. in. or more requires tying the front strut towers into the roll cage.

Also, the Tokico Illumina shocks don't have enough rebound control to handle springs over 250 lb. in. You'll have to move up to the Koni 8610s or equivilant Bilstiens.

- John
I was also wandering about this. my AE86 corolla is about the same weight as the 240z(maybe a little lighter), and has the same type front suspension. I am running 6.3kg/mm springs in the front, and its my daily driver. its not even really very stiff, and doesn't bounce at all, and I auto-x and circuit track race it all the time. if I had better tires, I'd even go for a higher spring rate. and BTW, the AE86 I'm sure has a weaker, more flexible chassis than the 240z.

but also, thinking about it, there are really 2 different ways to setup a suspension's stiffness. you can either go for stiff springs, and not as big of sway bars, or softer springs, and stronger sway bars. do most Z people just go for the latter? is there a reason behind this? maybe, something specific about this car that makes it work better?
> and BTW, the AE86 I'm sure has a weaker,
> more flexible chassis than the 240z.

I doubt it. Remember, the 240Z was designed in the late 1960s and has a pretty flexible front.

> you can either go for stiff springs, and not as big of sway
> bars, or softer springs, and stronger sway bars. do
> most Z people just go for the latter? is there a
> reason behind this? maybe, something specific about this
> car that makes it work better?

The fast 240Zs (the ones that run close to or beyond the lap records for their class) run stiff springs and soft anti-roll bars. They also run very sophisticated shocks. I ran Penske 8760 triples adjustables on the Rusty Old Datsun with 275 front and 300 rear springs, 23mm front and 19mm rear anti-roll bars. That car basically ran SCCA GT2 lap times on DOT-R tires.

Comparing spring rate numbers from one chassis to another is foolish. Unless both vehicles have the same suspension type (on both ends), roll centers, CG, sprung weight, unsprung weight, etc. then you're comparing apples to oranges.

- John
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"The American units for the springs were F 140lbs/in and R 165lbs/in. Obviously the front is softer to fight the 240Z's tendency for snap oversteer."

Actually, softer fronts gives MORE oversteer. Not that I've ever noticed "snap-oversteer" tendencies in my 240Z. Quite the contrary, you can pretty much hang it out there all day long and it never goes non-linear on ya, no surprises. SWEET! Unlike a number of same-era BMW and Porsche trailing arm and semi-trailing arm designs...

Ditto what's already been said regarding comparing spring rates on a 240Z to a 240SX, different leverage ratios.

FWIW, I've got 160 fronts/200 rear springs. Too stiff for the street, too soft for the track. What I'd call a decent compromise setup, though. Beats Z06s, Vipers, 911 Turbos at the track:)
Thanks for all the helpful info.
Info like this can only come from people who have raced the 240Z. It was the exact thing I was looking for.

About the snap oversteer:
I felt that the 240Z was way more unstable at its limits than other cars I've driven. Maybe it's due to a combination of its short wheelbase and its light weight.
I took my 240Z (perhaps a little too fast) through an unbanked hairpin. I chose a late apex to get a faster exit for the proceeding straightway. Making that tighter turn for the late apex, the car didn't warn me of any traction loss. It just snapped and spun without any power oversteer.
It really caught me off guard and taught me to know the exact grip limits of my car before I push it.
Maybe it's just me and my crappy driving.
> It just snapped and spun without any power oversteer.

Depending on the modifications, some 240Zs don't like lift throttle in a turn or at turn in. You can use trail braking to help the car rotate but (depending on setup) there's a fine line between helping the rotate and having the rear go away.

- John
also, that can depend on tires as well.

and yeah, this info is great. thanks guys!
What size bars are you using Dan and what shocks? I'm sure John's Penskes are nice but $$$$.
25mm front bar, 0mm rear bar (not very stiff, but it doesn't weigh much, either!)

Once I got some decent negative camber at the front (~2.5deg), the increased front grip allowed (required) me to lose the rear sway bar. Less total roll stiffness, but more drive grip out of corners.

Shocks are Tokico Illuminas. Very stiff, probably not the best high-speed vs. low-speed damping characteristics. But they've lasted a good long while and do a decent enough job. Generally set them to ~2F/3R.
Thanx a bunch for the info.
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