Speaker install in 280ZX 2+2 (1982)

once you do find out what size they are plan on running new wire to them. run them under the carpet to up into the console under the dash. nissan used a one wire common system and modern stereos are much happier with two wires to each speaker. tape off the old wires so they don't short. The wiring for the fronts will work fine even tho the speakers leave a bit to be desired in audio quality. you will need to identify the speaker, power and antenna leads from the schematic in the fsm and then splice in to your stereo plug the correct wires. Nissan did not use DIN standard color wire in those years. if you use crimp butt connectors cut your leads different lengths so you don't wind up with a huge bundle of connectors all in one spot. better to solder and heatshrink the connections. remember in japanese blue wires are marked L on the schematic. you will also need to buy a mounting plate from car toys or crutchfield or make one from a piece of aluminum as i did. crutchfield has an 800 number and usually helpful if you ask nicely. I would also replace the coax from the antenna to the radio as I have had two fail on me (radio shack). I seem to remember the grilles are held on with spring clamps unless you obviously see screws on each corner - either way they are readily removeable no need to pry up one corner. If you do a search you might find a post where some kind soul laid out wire colors in a chart. It is not a daunting task and I have no idea why whatever shop you took it to couldn't do it unless they wanted to sell you a radio and speakers. Pic attached is my 83. that mounting plate was made from a piece of al flatbar 4" x 1/8 thick. I screwed it to the plastic carrier from the old stereo. when you do that you can move the radio over to the left as I am going to use that area for a fuel pressure gage. the bought plates put it smack in the center .

First, no one should touch your car but you. In a 2+2 the speakers are in the side panels. You have to remove the door trom. Be careful remove the 2 buttons. Unscrew the bottom screw which is probably broke off by now and unscrew the clotheshook on top. There may be a screw on that panel under the seat. It is held on with 2 screws centered in front of each seat (I think). Then the panel pops out as it is held in place with those push popper things. The speakers are 61/2 even though 5 will work. I have some brand new 5 1/4 I'll sell you for $30 DB brand. I just assumed they'd fit my coupe...yeah that was wrong. 6 1/2 in the coupe too.

4" speakers in the front. The right one is accessible by removing the glove box. The center(left) can only be changed by removing the dash. Which will take a day but is the only way to do it right. There is also a list of things to do while it is out. To wit:

(1) After 30 years the foam weather strip around the vents and heater has turned to dust. Replace these with a spongy rubber self-adhesive roll from Lowe’s or Home Depot.

(2) If you ever wanted to update the stereo, now is the time to replace the center (left) speaker, inaccessible with the dash in place. If you use an oversize magnet, the dash vent case will not fit. This is cured by using a heat gun to soften the case so it will form fit around the speaker magnet.

(3) The instrument panel is held on by 2 screws on the bottom that screw in from the back side. You can reverse these now so that your instrument panel may be removed at a later date without dash removal.

(4) It makes it easier to replace all of the vacuum hoses. Note that these hoses have a very small outside diameter, 3/16” vs 3/8”, that is more widely sold. Also, the hoses that tend to crack are the ones coming from the engine compartment. Manual AC only had one hose. The myriad of hoses inside the car that control the vent servos may be ok. I personally have never had problems with these.

(5) Modifying heater valve screw to make it accessible later without removing the dash.

(6) Astro Bob in San Diego gives yet another potential problem to alleviate while the dash is out.
“An additional reason to pull the dash is to replace that short section of heater hose that
connects the valve with the heater core. That hose in my 79ZX was hard as a rock. I had to
carefully use a Dremel tool with a small cut off wheel to remove it from the heater core pipe, very slowly so I did not nick or cut the pipe. The original Nissan hose for that spot is molded with a slight bend, rather than being a straight piece of normal hose, but you can find slightly bent hose sections and any parts store, just using your calibrated eyeball to pick the right one. It is only about a 15 degree bend. The problem is that the hose is so short that bending a straight piece can place too much stress and cause early failure and leaks. And just like that valve, if the hose leaks, it is a miserable chore trying to replace it without taking out the dash and moving the heater box.”

You have to pull the entire panel to access the speakers. The grill that covers the speakers has clips on the backside and you'll bust the grills trying to pull them off from the face. If you go to a rear speakerboard in the back you'll get a major improvement in sound regardless of what stereo you're using. We make them ourselves and sell them either covered or uncovered. They use a pair of 6x9 speakers and have a bass port in them. Our zx version fits the coupes as well as the 2+2's. You can view them on our store at www.datsunstore.com ,just go to the audio section and look for your model. Just take 10.00 off of our posted price for the zcar.com discount.
I'd put a pic or a link on here for you but I haven't figured out how to do that with the new forum setup here. Z man of Washington