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My Hayne's sez you can pull a turbo in nine steps ie: less then 20 bolts? What I don't understand is why then I hear people talking about it like they were rebuilding the pyramids? Are these the "bolts from ****" ur what? I've heard 8 hours??? holy smoke, thats a long time to be wallowing around on the pavement bolt wrestling Will my car be on blocks while I.m waiting to get the *%##!^%*& thing rebuilt or can I run it without ffff,,, screwing it up worse?? Dang I don'tknow what ta do? There is a bright spot,,, I have another 83zxt "donor" car in the driveway ,wait,, the turbo is fried in it too,, so that may not be that bright a spot,, uh never mind. Sooo thanks fur responding guys. I'm on a campaign to stay inna Z.
 

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Sounds like my boss...

Recently did a job in Fairfield Ca. Instructions for the deal was completed in half a page, consisting of 9 steps. 127 hours later, the job was done...
The area where the turbo is tight, and can cause problems. I find it easier to take it out from underneath, after dropping the exhaust. That is, if you can get the pipe out of the turbo downpipe.
Then there is the access issue of the upper and lower forward bolt on the turbo to exhaust maniflod. With big hands, it's a challenge.

Back to the job in Fairfield, I got a call from my boss that first friday asking me why it was taking so long. His exact words were: "How hard can it be, all you have to do is hook up the wires and install the sensors?" Yeah, Joe, that's ALL...
 

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i took off everything (w/the manifold still on the car) very quickly 2-3hrs......except for ONE NUT that holds the turbo on.......it took 2 weeks more for that....i ended up cutting it off w/a torch....(i never would have been able to torque it properly if i put it back on)......i ended up having my whole engine redone so it really didnt matter....
the rough thing about it is, you have to remove a lot of exhaust parts and most are torqued pretty tight,rusty etc......i was able to get most of my stuff off because i had a lot of the parts off before and used anti-seize (silver) on them when i put them back on (anti-seize compound=glorious stuff).
it doesnt look like it , but i think it would be faster and a whole lot easier to take off the exhaust manifold......or have it done....if you have pneumatic tools (or could get 'em)....it would REALLY help....
i think it really depends on how hard it is to get those rusty exhaust parts off....and it would be a good time to get religon too (pray that you dont break any bolts off)......8hrs (i think) is not out of the park (especially if you havent done it b4)
you could check w/an exhaust place (that kinda stuff dont scare them) and see if they could take it off....and you could put the new one back on.....(take the manifold off) (use anti-seize when you put 'em back on).......s
 

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Hi Timbukto------------After pulling 3 of the Garrett T-3's out of junkyard cars, I have developed a system of sorts. The first thing to do is remove the guard that protects the brake master cylinder from engine heat. Then disconnect the rubber boot that runs from the throttle body to the turbo. This boot attaches to the metal pipe with the "J" bend,and through a short rubber coupling to the turbo. You should carefully mark all the tiny vacuum lines and their respective connections on all these parts. This is a good time to check the turbo for excessive play in the shaft. There should be just enough play laterally for you to feel it, and the wheel should turn freely. Working from under the car, disconnect the exhaust and downpipe from the catalytic converter at the front of the cat if possible. You may need to disconnect from the rear of the cat if the fittings on the front are locked up. At this point you may want to disconnect the wastegate actuating unit's arm, sometimes it's in the way when you try to loosen the turbo from the manifold.Then back under the hood for the four nuts that secure the turbo to the exhaust manifold. The upper left and right nuts were easier for me to get to from the top. The biggest hassle I've run into is breaking the upper left nut loose. It's a 17mm, and most of them are VERY tight. In addition, there is a major difficulty getting a wrench or socket on this nut. I solved this problem with a combination of a long breaker bar (Sears), a long extension and a crowsfoot wrench, all 1/2" drive. The remaining nuts were easier for me to access from under the car. Once these nuts are loose, you're over the hump. Next step is to disconnect the small diameter oil feed line from the turbo and the rubber return line from the oil pan. Don't forget to remove the wire from the O2 sensor, and you'll need to disconnect or cut the metal line to the EGR. At this point, you should be able to pull the turbo from the manifold, and drop it down under the car.

The first turbo I pulled took me two days. The last one took about 45 minutes. Good luck!

Roadman
 

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See? Everyone loves the "upper Left" nut

My best advice is to use Kriol or PB Blaster to loosen the rusty items in advance of owrking on it. Schmaydee said it best, removing other things may be easier. I simply dropped the downpipe, cut the intake boot, and pulled the WHOLE HEAD the last time I was in a junkyard...
If you havve a torch, you can bend a dog-end into one of the 17 box-ends you have, and it makes accessing the "upper nut" much easier.
Big Forearms and fenderwells don't mix...
 

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Re: See? Everyone loves the "upper Left"

Hi Tony, guys------------Yeah, Tony's right. I forgot to mention that you should FLOOD all the fittings with penetrating oil of some sort before you begin this operation.

I've never had to remove much besides the things I mentioned in my first post, but by all means do it if it's easier. And jobs like this are certainly the "mother" of many customized tools. I've made several for various Z jobs.

Roadman
 

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i have a spare stock turbo if your interested make offer, and it a simple job get some a can of free all from a air conditioning supply store looks like wd-40 except its a whit can and it'll loosen up any rusted bolt in 30 min. good luck
 

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A word to the wise>> all you guys running turbos<<< USE MOBIL 1 OIL!!!
I have 250,000 on mine and I eat mustangs and the like on a daily basis. I doen't cost more because you go 2 times as long between oil changes, and you get MUCH better lubrication all the way around, In fact all my vehicles use it
81 ZXT, 86 735 BMW, 97 Nissan P/U even my power washer It's JUST BETTER stop skimping and wise up you'll spend less time wrenching and more time driving
 
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