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Slotted Wheels not getting tight

3660 Views 14 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  speednick
So I have a 1972 240Z with the Toyota 4X4 calipers and the slotted aluminum wheels. It seems as though no matter how tight I get the lug nuts the wheel still feels as though it is not tight. I checked behind the wheel and it is not hitting anything, if I pull on the tire and it is loose. At about 30-35 MPH get a horrible shaking of steering wheel, any ideas? Also, the washers are getting deformed in from tightening the lug nug nuts.
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If the washers are getting deformed, it sounds like the lug nut is smaller than the hole in the wheel. Could it be that your OEM lugnuts are too long now with the conversion?
Shot wheel bearings?
Hub not installed correctly?
Wrong size wheel for car?
I will check the lug nuts just bought the ones from Advance Auto, I think they are the long shank type. Do I need to order a special lug nut for these wheels?

As far as the the wheel bearings and hub there is no play when I pull at the rotor with the wheel off. I can hear and feel the wheel moving.
I would bet the castle nut that holds the bearings is loose, but it could be any number of things. Is the mating surface of where the wheel and hub meet perfectly flat and clean on both the wheel and the hub?
I believe they are flat but I will check back of wheel tonight, would I get some play if I pulled on the rotor if the castle nut was loose? It appears to be tight to me, I will recheck it either tonite or tomorrow night. It is the same on both front wheels but the back seems to be ok, I thought it might be related to the 4X4 calipers but they are not hitting on the wheel.
hey man you want to buy some celica emblems?
That site shows a pretty good array of lug nuts. From your description, deforming washers, it sounds like you don't have the right type lug nut to go with your wheels. Find lugs that are the right size and will properly seat against the wheels.

Next, USE A TORQUE WRENCH! Preferrably, use a calibrated torque wrench and tighten the lugs to factory specs or to the specifications from the wheel manufacturer.

Third, figure out what exactly is loose. Others have given good suggestions to start. Don't be afraid to put the car on jack stands, take the wheels off, and manipulate the steering and suspension componts by hand to figure out what components are malfunctioning. Maybe it's just the wheels, or maybe it's a combination of things.
Lugnut shanks are too long. Remove a wheel and put a lugnut in the wheel with the washer in place. Now look at the back side of the wheel and you will see that the lugnut is flush or even sticks out beyond the wheel mounting surface. The shank needs to be shorter than the thickness of the wheel.
What Jeff said. I have a box of long shank taper seat, washer seat, short shank thin and thick wall, etc,etc. Try ZX nuts.
Shank Length of the nut must be LESS than the thickness of the road wheel at point of fastening. Some say 0.250" minimum shorter to make up for the idiots who refuse to put the washers on underneath as required by almost every mag wheel in existence!
I can't believe you drove it like that...loose wheels, really.
You are correct the lug nut is flush with the back of my wheel I will go get the correct lug nuts. Thanks for all of your help. I only drove the car around the neighborhood, but I am going to fix it before I drive anymore.
Finding the right length shank nuts isn't easy. Measure the current shank length (probably 3/4") and get the next shorter. They are M12x1.25 in case you don't know. www.rockauto.com should have them if(when) you strike out locally.
You should find what you need at the Zone or Advance...just ask if you can go check out their lug bins politely as most counter slugs consider it a PITA and are happy to let you do their work for you!
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