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Discussion Starter #1
Well folks, it appears my replacing the valve cover seal was useless, as the car is still pouring out smoke from behind the motor once it's warmed up. I couldn't think of any other place for it to be leaking oil like that (the intake valve covers looked dry) but it's going into nissan tomorrow for a diagnosis.


What do you think it could be?

There was a drip of oil on the top of the passenger downpipe flange, and that was causing smoke (where'd that come from?) And from a quick visual inspection underneath, nothing looked wet and I couldn't see any oil spots after idling it for probably 5-10 minutes.

Oh, and the oil pressure gauge is reading 0psi (wonderful) not sure if it's the oil pressure sender or, if it's actually getting 0psi (gulp).

What do you guys think, for places in the rear of the motor that could be causing the leak? I don't think the VTC solenoid would be to blame, because I put new silicon around that when I had to replace them.

Ugh, the short drive up and down two blocks has made me want this thing back ASAP, so I'm about to fork out the cash for nissan to fix it, but I'd like to hear your opinions first.
 

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You should check the oil pressure sender. Make sure it works. Or at least get it working and find out what you oil pressure is. Could it be that it's too high? And oil is coming out of a weak spot around the area above the downpipe? Just throwing this out that it might stimulate more ideas. More out there thinking than anything else.... ;)

If you think that it is dripping from something around the downpipe, really check around it. There has to be someplace that it is dripping from. Or could it be spaying from the turbo seal upward then dripping?

I say be patient and see if you can find it. You may have to pull the motor again. You did it before, you can do it again. Not a fun idea, I know, but you seem very capable and you have a place and the tools to do the work, which is great. Utilize it! Going to Nissan is going to mean big bucks!

Hope this helps? Good Luck.

Let us know what you decide or find,
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It crossed my mind, but I really think it was something dripping onto a manifold of some sort. The rear main seal looked good on the motor when I checked it.
 

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First off good luck finding the leak and I pray for your sake its something simple. Now, second off if a turbo seal is gone a turbo is fubar or anything like that you bought a used motor. And taken straight from NYXs website

Warranty Details:

Our JDM engines carry a 6month unlimited mileage warranty covering the engine from internal defects. This means, the motor will have compression and leakdown numbers within spec. The Engine will be functional on arrival, but consumers should replace common oil seals/lines and coolant lines. The Warranty does not cover turbo's, injectors, or any other add-on parts which are included with the engine. The warranty unfortunatly does not include shipping or labor costs associated with the motor.

Now, im not posting that up to be a dick but people if something like a turbo is gone its not Furquans fault if the motor is internally fine. Its a price you pay sometimes like I said hope it gets worked out. I also hope im not in your situation here shortly cause I know how pissed id be. Youll get it worked out man just be patient with it.



Post Edited (Jan 9, 11:07pm)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I don't suspect a turbo seal quite yet... we'll see tomorrow or wednesday after nissan does their leak test. Does anyone know if they use a dye or how they do that?
 

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Re: Z-Sport, Everett, Yah !!

Scott, I am sorry for your misery, and I hope a solution appears quickly.

My contribution is this: Why are you going to Nissan? How many discussions and complains do we field here concerning Nissan's lack of interest or sheer incompetence when it comes to our ancient Z32s?

I would affirm an earlier suggestion that you get the car to Everett, some way or somehow, even if towed, and have the area's best Nissan Z specialist look it over. I am speaking of Z-Sport, of course. I hear that Bellevue has a Z expert, but can you imagine the difference in cost between Milltown and Bellevue?

Give their guy Charles a call tomorrow and see what he suggests for you.

Directions: North on I-5 to Everett's 41st Street exit (left side), then north along Broadway to 36th Street, turn right, go a couple of blocks east. They do all my work, the jobs beyond me or too specialized, and they are good people. Tell 'em Dave with the perfect gold 90 NA sent you.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
For now, I'm just having nissan find out where the oil leak was coming from. They said it was just $49.95, which is fine by me. To actually get the problem fixed, I may go to z sport, unless it ends up being something stupid. (and yes, the oil filter is tightened. That's on the passenger side anyways)
 

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OK, I see, so what Nissan service offers is an oil leak diagnosis? $50 sounds acceptable for that. Yes, I suppose that would be a dye, or something they can see with a special magic light. Isn't this how they test a/c leaks too?

I know you already know this....but it takes very little oil to create mass amounts of frightening smoke. I learned this fact suffering with a bad turbo on a Volvo 242GLT years ago.

I am more worried about your 0 oil pressure reading. Is everything fastened in that area? That is a higher priority worry than the oil leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Here's what I'm wondering.

I know the valve cover WAS leaking, and I replaced the silicon seal on that yesterday. But, I did not wipe off the excess oil that had dripped onto the head and manifold (oops)

Sooo.. I'm wondering if the smoke is just from that oil that still remains burning off, or if it is really still leaking? It was smoking pretty bad after it warmed up today, more than it had before :/
 

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I think your hunch bears some weight Scott. That is....that the smoke is from residual oil on the HOT parts, and it should burn off in due time. It's too bad access and vision is so damned limited down the back of this engine.

Since we all know that you did the valve cover seal correctly and thoroughly, ( pretty basic stuff for any Gearhead), I am wondering if going at all the HOT parts, manifold, turbo, precat, downpipe, with a good solvent will reduce or eliminate the problem of residual old oil there. You need a cold engine, of course, maybe approach from underneath, and probably remove the battery for better access.

No one has mentioned the turbocharger oil supply connections - what condition are they? Source of high pressure leak there.

Of course, if you have a continual leak, none of the above will solve the problem.
 
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