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Discussion Starter #1
Not going very well. First, I had to put the jack on some boards in order to get the car high enough to even fit the jack stands under it. I put the jack stands under it and they fit very tightly. Next.. this part was very worrying: I started to lower the jack, and the car must have moved down at least three inches before I stopped the jack from lowering (the problem here being that the car was already resting on the jack stands.. so.. had the frame bent three inches?). The frame didn't look bent.. I don't know. I raised the car back up, took the jack stands out, and lowered the car.

Another problem is that I'm supposed to have four jack stands and two jacks to pull the transmission, and I only have two jack stands and two jacks. I'm wondering if I should just bring it into a shop.

I also tried getting ramps, but the only place I could find that had any ramps only had 7.5 inch ramps.. probably not enough to pull the tranny.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Nic



Post Edited (Nov 5, 8:29pm)
 

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get two more jack stands.

Jack one side up first, put the jack stands on.

Jack the other side up, put the other stands on.

Keep raising each side until they're all the way up.



If that doesn't give you enough clearance, put something beneath the jack stands.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have two jacks - one that came with my car and fits in the "rocker panel flange notches" on the side of the car, and one that my friend let me borrow, which does not fit in the "rocker panel flange notches". The Haynes Manual says to only use this kind of jack on two spots, one exactly between the front wheels, and the other exactly between the rear wheels (the differential).

Earlier I was lifting up the entire front of the car with the truck jack, and putting my two jack stands on either side of the car, supporting the front of the car (except that they didn't seem to support it very well...).

Should I be lifting up one side of the car at a time, instead of one end of the car (front/back)? Will I need two Z31 jacks to lift up a side of the car?
 

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I do fine with just the Z31 jack and 4 jack stands. It's probably not the best idea, but it's all I have so I go with it.

and sorry, by sides in mean front and back.

The ONLY two points I jack my car up at is the front crossmember and the rear differential. My body is too rusty to go at it any place else.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was just worried because when I had the jack stands in place and started to lower the jack (which was in the fton), the car should not have moved at all, but it lowered with the jack, so I guess the frame was bending.

I like the idea of ramps, but I couldn't drive onto them (the clutch has NO friction left) so I could probably push my car onto ramps with a different car. The other problem though is that the only ramps I've found are only 7.5" tall. Do you guys think that's high enough? I measured and I only had it 5" taller with the jacks. Oh, and a third problem: four ramps is $60. Kinda expensive. I'm not sure what to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I guess my main question is this - should I be worried about the front of the car lowering when it shouldn't have? I never checked to see how far down it would go with the jack stands still under it, I jacked it back up and took the stands out.
 

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Where are you putting the jackstands? Make sure you don't put them on any part of the suspension, which is sounds like you are doing.

Look in the beginning of the Haynes manual to check for suitable locations for jack stands.


I ususally put the front ones just to the left and right of the jack on the front crossmemeber, and in the rear, wherever looks strongest near the rear diff.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I put the front jack stands on the spots marked in the Haynes manual on page 19, illustrated in the upper left corner.
 

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Nic,

Make sure that you jack the front of the car up first. If you jack the rear of the car up first then the emergency breaks will not be holding the car in place and the car will try to roll and start tilting the jacks as mentioned. It is a good idea to wedge a piece of wood underneat the tires to stop the car from rolling.

If you can't get two floor jacks I would recommend at least having 1 floor jack and one scissor jack (like z31 stocker).

Make sure that you have 4 jack stands, you can't get away with ramps or anything else. You will have to use something extra to heighen the jack stands, I had to.

Be really careful and do everything nice and slow so that you can see what is taking place.

Post if you have questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I was jacking the front. I will try to restate my problem so as to make it more clear: I had the front of the car jacked up, no problems so far. I put the jack stands in place, as indicated by the Haynes Manual. They fit in tightly - there was no room left between the top of the jack stands and the car. I figured the car was now stable without the jack - it was resting on the two rear wheels as well as the two jack stands, located in the spots indicated on page 19 of the Haynes manual in the upper left corner of the diagram. Next I was going to remove the jack from the front of the car. The car should not have moved at all when I lowered the jack, but instead the front of the car lowered with the jack, almost half a foot. Thinking the frame must have been bending, I jacked the car back up all the way. As I started jacking it up, there were creaking metal noises.

I did just think of another possibility, which is that as I lowered the front, the rear of the car raised up, so the entire car would have been pivoting on the jack stands, with the rear wheel still on the ground of course. This actually makes sense now that I think about it, because as I raised the front of the car up with the jack, the rear suspension would have been taking much more weight, lowering the rear of the car.
 

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I can't imagine the frame actually bending, even under the weight. It is the frame after all, and we aren't talking about an SUV. If you have anyone you know locally who is mechanically inclined, have them give you hand in the jacking process. Raising cars and putting them on jack stands is pretty universal. You do want to make sure it is the frame you are using to support the care however! Anything would likely cause major problems.
 

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I attempted to put a jack stand right next to the spots on the side where you actually put the jack to lift it. it didn't take teh weight and crushed the part directly behind my front passenger tire. It was a pain in the ass to straighten out and mask with bondo.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I got it up on jack stands, now I've gotten to the part where I guess I need a special tool to get the snap ring off to remove the stick shift. Any helpful hints?



Post Edited (Nov 6, 9:17pm)
 

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Ahem...GET THE SNAP RING TOOL IT WILL SAVE YOUR LIFE.

Option 1: No snap ring tools
Result 1: 2 hours, swearing, broken stuff

Option 2: $5 cheapy snap ring tool
Result 2: 5 minutes and a smile on your face

Make sure you get one with a size that looks like it will work as they make a number of different sizes.
 

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the last time i did a clutch job on a z , i jacked the car up and put it on cinderblocks. i left all the wheels on and put the cinderblocks under the tires. two cinderblocks stacked under the tires, gave me more than enough room under the car too work. If using this method, do make sure your e-brake is working properly so your car does'nt roll off. jack it from the crossmember and rear diff. if you run out of jack heigth, place a cinderblock under the jack, once you've got the car high enough to get one cinderblock under the tires. this way may sound a little"junkyardish", but it worked awesome! And this is the very best way to raise the car if you have "FRAME RUST" issues! Good luck and use caution!
 
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