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I was wondering how you made your fuel rail. I have to say that I keep looking at your car and thinking what a great looking engine bay...very neat and tiddy. I am kind of using your car a a guide :) Hope you dont mind.
Anyway I can find the alum. tube to make the rail it self but what did you use for the injectors down spouts...and where did you get them. Thanks for your time and all your help.

Lloyd "Ewan" Tillman
 

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Ewan wrote:
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I was wondering how you made your fuel rail. I have to say that I keep looking at your car and thinking what a great looking engine bay...very neat and tiddy. I am kind of using your car a a guide :) Hope you dont mind.
Anyway I can find the alum. tube to make the rail it self but what did you use for the injectors down spouts...and where did you get them. Thanks for your time and all your help.

Lloyd "Ewan" Tillman


Thanks for the compliment.

Acquiring the blank is the first and most difficult part. I found 21" to be a good length.

Remove the factory fuel rail or try to line up the blank over the injectors so you can mark the injector positions on the blank. The objective here is to make sure the rail fittings and hoses line up perfectly with the injectors.

Get 6 barbed fittings (5/16", I think) with male threads on the other end. Drill and tap the bottom of the rail so that the male ends can be screwed into the blank. The barbed ends should now line up nicely with the injectors. You can then slip the barbed ends into the injector hoses or get all new hoses.

You also need to drill and tap the ends. What you do here depends on what type of fuel line you use. If you are using the factory 5/16" hose, then use the same barbed fittings on the ends. You have the option of using AN fittings. Although I can drill and tap, I chose to let a machine shop do it ($40, if I recall).

You need to relocate the FPR. I made a simple bracket and have it in the front of the head. It can go anywhere within a reasonable distance.

Last thing is to make brackets to bolt the rail to the intake. I used a 1/8" thick, 1" wide aluminum strip. It is strudy enough and easy to drill, fabricate and finish.

Total cost was about $100. $30 for the blank, $40 for machining, $20+ for the fittings and strips.

Scottie
 
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