Runs wierd cold

kbcnick said:

When i first start the car in the morning or after work at night it starts fine but will idle at around 500 and slowly raise to around 1700, and stays there.

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That is an exceptionally high idle.

i can adjust the TPS a bit to bring the idle down but i need a new idle valve hose( which if anyone has one, i need one, cant find anywhere)

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Try courtesyparts.com .

anyways so the high idle is the least of my worries right now. then after its gotten up to around 1000 if i give it a quick pump of gas it seems like it misses and the revs drop, so i have to slowly give it gas to get it going, then its surges a bit when accelerating.

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Could be various things, such as the MAF, or intake air/vacuum leaks.

i have considered the air regulator, but i have no idea where this is.

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Air regulator does not affect the mixture.
Get the FSM so that you have some idea of what parts are called, what they do and where they are.
http://www.xenonz31.com/reference.html
You can also see how to retrieve error codes from the ECU.

also on another note, has anyone done a breather filter on the crank vent hose?

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Why would they want to?

i put one on and then plugged up the intake hole until i can get the chance to cut it off and fill it but i want to make sure before i cut the piece off.

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Why bother?

I my self have the same problem with my car right now. I've run the codes and got nothing so i started testing components under the hood and have found out the the airflow meter works just fine. CHTS works just fine. But what i have found out was that the air regulator wasn't getting voltage at all to the connector. I went back a bit on the wires to the Air Reg and found some voltage. I then checked the resistance from the connector to the place where i went into the wires and found a lot of resistance. So I'm sistering in a new wire from where it connects to the ECM and the fuse box.
There is a quick and easy way to test your AFM. get some gator clips x2 and connect them to a battery. Next connect the gator clips to the AFM, positive goes to terminal E on the AFM and negative goes to terminal D. next get a DMM (Digital Multi Meter) and connect negative to D and positive to terminal B. You should get a voltage of 1.6 volts + or - .1V. Next blow air threw the AFM and your should then get 2-4V. if any of those numbers are not correct then it is bad.

The air regulator, bypasses the throttle valve to control the quantity of air for increasing the engine idling speed when starting the engine at an underhood temperature of below 176°F. A bi-metal and a heater are incorporated into the air regulator. When the ignition switch is turned to the Start position or when the engine is running, electric current flows through the heater, and the bi-metal, as it is heated by the heater, begins to move and closes the air passage in a few minutes. The air passage remains closed until the engine is stopped and the underhood air temperature drops below 176°F.

The air reg does give a hard start and low idle when cold and it is not drivable at all do to bogging of the engine for not getting enough air into the engine and makeing the air/fuel mixture way too rich on start up. That is what every nissan ASE cert has told me and what i have found from All Data and a few other places. they all say the same. I have also fixed the connectors on my air reg and the car not runs and has no low, rough or boggin at low idle.