have you by chance recently taken the dash out? i had exact same problem in my 76. i had taken the dash out to install a new full cover, re-installed it, and a few weeks later...no parking lights. FINALLY found that i did not make a good connection at one of the dash wiring connectors behind/under the glove box. check those (un-plug, inspect, re-plug).
Running/Parking Lights not Working
I think that this will have an easy answer but because I'm not real good at reading the wiring diagrams and my dad and I are freezing our asses off right now from being outside for a couple hours, I'm going to describe the situation and see what you guys think.
When we turn the lights on using the switch the headlights come on, but nothing else. No parking lights, no rear lights and none of the gauges are illuminating.
Step on the brake pedal and the brake lights come on. Use the turn signal and they blink.
We checked all the fuses and wiring at the steering column and under the dash, but can't find anything that looks damaged or has a bad connection.
It seems to be that because its grouping all the lights together that aren't working it would be a simple answer, unfortunately we weren't able to find it.
When we turn the lights on using the switch the headlights come on, but nothing else. No parking lights, no rear lights and none of the gauges are illuminating.
Step on the brake pedal and the brake lights come on. Use the turn signal and they blink.
We checked all the fuses and wiring at the steering column and under the dash, but can't find anything that looks damaged or has a bad connection.
It seems to be that because its grouping all the lights together that aren't working it would be a simple answer, unfortunately we weren't able to find it.
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On a s130, the flasher will do crazy things too. I was popping fuses when turning on the hazards, which run thru the same flasher. Replaced the flasher and all was well.
It could also be the combo switch. It gets oxidized and you have to clean the internal contacts.
I assume you have tested all the bulbs. That you are not getting 12v to the side markers. If you jump the contacts at the combo switch, do you get results?
It could also be the combo switch. It gets oxidized and you have to clean the internal contacts.
I assume you have tested all the bulbs. That you are not getting 12v to the side markers. If you jump the contacts at the combo switch, do you get results?
What you described are bulbs all on the same circuit.
Are you sure the fuse is good?
These older glass fuses can look 'good' but can be an open circuit due to heating and cooling during use.
They sag and develop hairline cracks.
Does the fuse box show signs of overheating; ie. clear plastic cover melted, backside of fuse box melted or charred?
I have found that all the fuses should be changed every couple of years just as a preventative measure.
Resistance, bad/corroded connections and older bulbs, can cause more heat to the circuit so it's a great idea to inspect and clean/replace all your bulbs and use dilelectric grease to add a level of protection, especially on the bulbs outside the cars interior.
Are you sure the fuse is good?
These older glass fuses can look 'good' but can be an open circuit due to heating and cooling during use.
They sag and develop hairline cracks.
Does the fuse box show signs of overheating; ie. clear plastic cover melted, backside of fuse box melted or charred?
I have found that all the fuses should be changed every couple of years just as a preventative measure.
Resistance, bad/corroded connections and older bulbs, can cause more heat to the circuit so it's a great idea to inspect and clean/replace all your bulbs and use dilelectric grease to add a level of protection, especially on the bulbs outside the cars interior.
Ok let me try to respond to all the comments.
First we did not remove the dash, however we did just recently install new carpet, could we have knocked some connections lose up behind the glove box or are they up high in the dash area? My dad did the carpet replacement so I didn't really get to see how all that went back together. I was working on the seat recovering while he did that.
Second we did not actually test any of the locations for power. We checked the fuses and connections around the steering column because of the multi switch being there. I was assuming since all the lights that appear to be on the same circuit it had to be something malfunctioning in one centralized location.
We did check the fuse panel, but i guess we will rereview them since you're saying that they could look good but not be. I don't see anything like that looks like the fuse panel is damaged, but I didn't remove it from its mount to look at the back of it. I can do that to make sure there aren't any issues there that need attention.
I guess I'll check over a few connections and the fuse panel to confirm everything is as it should be and report back with my findings.
First we did not remove the dash, however we did just recently install new carpet, could we have knocked some connections lose up behind the glove box or are they up high in the dash area? My dad did the carpet replacement so I didn't really get to see how all that went back together. I was working on the seat recovering while he did that.
Second we did not actually test any of the locations for power. We checked the fuses and connections around the steering column because of the multi switch being there. I was assuming since all the lights that appear to be on the same circuit it had to be something malfunctioning in one centralized location.
We did check the fuse panel, but i guess we will rereview them since you're saying that they could look good but not be. I don't see anything like that looks like the fuse panel is damaged, but I didn't remove it from its mount to look at the back of it. I can do that to make sure there aren't any issues there that need attention.
I guess I'll check over a few connections and the fuse panel to confirm everything is as it should be and report back with my findings.
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