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Hello,

Is there anyone here who has done it themselves? Whats involved? I have never changed one, but at some point I am going to want to put one in, Is it something you can do at home with your floor jack and stands? Or? And what brand is the best? I do not want to throw a cheep piece of junk in.

Thanks.
Scott Milella
 

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Here's what I do. (Long)

It is actually fairly easy. One thing about the Z's I'm sure you've noticed is ample room. All the bolts are easy to get at, etc.
Drain the tranny fluid using the drain plug on the very bottom. This plug is magnetic, if it has metal chunks you might want to check the bearings and seals in the tranny while you have it out.
Remove the drive-shaft, the starter, speedo cable, disconnect the reverse light wires, remove the shifter. I believe the ZX's have heat shields under them, these have to be removed. You need the car high enough off the ground to work under it comfortablly. I prefer the front to be higher than the back and I remove the tranny from the front. Place a jack with a section of 2X4 under the back lip of the oil pan and put a very slight tension on it, this will support the engine. Place another jack under the tranny and loosen the tranny mount bolts from the body, not the one nut that holds the tranny to the mount. Remove the tranny to engine bolts maybe 4-6 depending on who's been there before, these are easy I think 14mm. Most everything can be done with a ratchet & socket with various lenght extensions. Once these are removed, finish removing the tranny mount bolts. Now be careful, wiggle the tranny and pull back it will seperate from the engine and come back about 2" before it is free. At this point it is usually laying on my chest, they don't weigh that much about 80lbs. Now you are ready to unbolt the clutch from the flywheel. These bolts are easy and have a specfic torque that is very important upon reassembly, check the manuel.

As far as clutch goes, that depends on your power level, I have them made with a replacable pad material but mine are hard to drive smooth and you can easily shock the tranny. If you are mildly modded get a normal stock type clutch, I haven't kept up with brands.

Make sure you pay attention to which direction the clutch disc faces when you take it apart and make a note so you can be sure it goes back together right. Also if your flywheel is dicolored or rough, worn have it surfaced or replaced. Make sure you follow the torque specs these will definetly influence clutch life and engagement.

Always use a clutch alignment tool. Some come with clutchs others are like $3 at Advance, pep-boys whatever.

The worst part is putting the tranny back into the engine, a helper is nice as is a well lit area. Take your time and devote a day to this, at least.

btw my first clutch job took about 8 hours now they take me 3.5

Good luck
Matt
 

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Forgot something (short)

Always replace the throw-out bearing and lube the input shaft(he he) it will go together much easier.
 
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