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I just replaced my steering coupler, and steering rack bushings and WOW! what a difference. Before the steering wheel had noticeable slop that made it hard to keep in a straight line. Now the slop is gone and I don’t feel any increased harshness in the wheel. For most people here this will be a little simplistic, but for others it will be very useful.

I ordered a complete urethane set from <A HREF=http://www.suspension.com/nissancars.htm>http://www.suspension.com/nissancars.htm</A>. It was $204 including shipping and includes these bushings: front and rear control arm bushings, front strut rod bushings, front & rear bump stops, transmission cross member bushings, rack & pinion bushings, differential carrier mustache bar bushings, steering coupler bushing, rear sway bar bushings, front &rear end links, tie rod end boots.
Just for reference the two steering bushings are:
7.10102G Nissan Rack & Pinion Bushings
7.16101G Nissan Steering Coupler Bushing

The Steering Coupler is kind of hard to work around. Mine is a ’76 280Z with no EGR, I would guess this is more difficult with all that later model stuff around these parts. There are 4 nuts and bolts that hold the coupler together, you will have to steer the car back and forth to get to them as you work. Before you loosen the coupler bolts, loosen the upper coupler from the steering shaft. You need to do this so that you can slide the joint down to clear the bolts. The bolts aren’t attached so you will have to use two wrenches to get them out. After all the nuts are off, use a screwdriver to force the joint apart by sliding it down the steering shaft. Then everything will fall apart. Notice how the two joint halves and two plates line up for later assembly. The new steering coupler came with the metal sleeves in the wrong holes, just push them out and re-align them. Then reassemble the whole thing. If you are replacing the rack bushings you might wait to tighten the coupler to the steering shaft until you are done.

The Steering Rack bushings require a little more human contortion and upper arm strength. I used drive on ramps and they gave plenty of space to crawl around under the car. First remove the splash plate. Then locate the 4 bolts that hold the rack to the chassis. Each bolt has a jam nut that the manual doesn’t warn you about. Use your many tools to find one that will fit and loosen these nuts from above the rack. If you back them out slightly and leave you ratchet on it you can then loosen the bolt from below out of the jam nut and bushing strap at the same time. Lift up the rack slightly (there isn’t much space) and remove the old bushings and laugh at how bad 23 year old rubber looks like. The new bushings are in 4 pieces, make sure you glance at the instructions to understand them. The drivers’ side slides in great, but the passenger sides where about 1mm too wide. I took them to the belt sander and adjusted them for a better fit. Then they fit fine as well. Tighten everything back down, including those annoying jam nuts, and the upper coupler steering shaft bolt.

This took me about an hour and a half with all the right tools. The driving feel is so much better, now I can’t wait to find the time to finish the rest of the suspension and new sway bars!
 
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