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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to attempt to replace my turbo this weekend and would appreciate any tips you guys might have.

1) Is it easier to remove the unit from the top of the car and the underside?
2) Are there any special tools besides a good set of sockets and wrenches?
3) Any other tips would be greatly appreciated!!

The car is an '82ZXT, manual tranny with 120K on it. Thanks again for all the help. Please keep this site going!!

BTW, it is a factory unit. The upgrades I want are minor, and from earlier posts, I understand the stock unit will be enough.
 

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> I am going to attempt to replace my turbo
> this weekend and would appreciate any tips
> you guys might have.

> 1) Is it easier to remove the unit from the
> top of the car and the underside?
> 2) Are there any special tools besides a
> good set of sockets and wrenches?
> 3) Any other tips would be greatly
> appreciated!!

> The car is an '82ZXT, manual tranny with
> 120K on it. Thanks again for all the help.
> Please keep this site going!!

> BTW, it is a factory unit. The upgrades I
> want are minor, and from earlier posts, I
> understand the stock unit will be enough.

you might want to get yourself a set of stubby wrenches. also, a neddle nose pliers would be helpful. the stock turbo unit i picked up was these thin metal plates which corner bend up to prevent the nuts from turning. the turbo should also come out for the top with no prob except for disconnecting the downpipe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
> I just put a new turbo on my 83zxt, and the cars are pretty much the same at that point. I replaced mine from both the top and under the car. I put the car on jack stands, removed the wheel so I could get under it safely.

From the top I removed the
1) the heat shield on the master cylinder
2) the Intake air assembly( black on my car. It comes off easily just a couple of clamps and screws.

From under the car I removed the exhaust pipe and cat because I could not get the down tube off easily.

I used a screw driver to open the nut keepers on the nuts on the turbo and removed the nuts. You may need a can of liquid wrench because the nuts were rusted on mine.

I removed the four nuts holding the turbo, the oil feed and return lines and dropped the whole assembly and removed it from below. Since I had the down tube on it it took a little shifting and twisting of the assembly to get it past steering parts.

Be careful when removing the the hose that feeds the intake manifold from the turbo, I ripped mine and had to buy a new one from the dealer.

I put on a new O2 sensor,(easy to get off with the down tube on the bench.

With all new gaskets for the turbo, I put it back on from the top, put new keepers on for the nuts, bolted the nuts and put the down tube on from under the car. This might be a good time to check for leaks around the gasket where the turbo attaches to the exhaust manifold. I thought I had everything tight and set but I found that if you don't snug up all nuts the same amount and then tighten them diagonally( TL-BR, TR-BL)you might have leaks.

I also put on a new oil feeder line , cause the car has 165K on it and I am not sure if it had ever been replaced.

Rebolted the exhaust on( new gasket for the cat), remounted the intake manifold and reinstalled the heat shield.

It took me about 6 hours of actual working time and 2 days worth of running down parts that I did not buy when I got the reman turbo to replace the old one.

I would suggest you buy ( in addition to the turbo:
Minimum
New gaskets for the turbo intake( exhaust manifold) and exhaust( down tube)
New keepers for the turbo nut attachment( they have a tendency to break off when opening them)
New gasket for the cat( which ever end you can get loose)from the exhast pipe or muffler.

Optional
New O2 Sensor
New oil line feeder tube(may not be optional based on your turo mfg. warranty.)
New turbo to intake hose.

The new turbo brought new life into the car.

Good luck, and if you need any more detail, please feel free to let me know. [email protected]
 

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AWOODS,

Towards the end of your installation you state you remounted the intake manifold, you did not mention you removed it in the beginning. Did you remove the intake manifold in the beginning to get to the upper turbo mounting bolts? and plus did this allow for the easy installation from top?? If you did remove the intake manifold, did you also have to remove all the fuel injectors as well?? Also how long did it take to wiggle the old turbo out past the steering column?? Just curious because I have a 83 280ZX turbo and my turbo is dead, I still can drive my car but it does not have the extra punch. I have been saving for a remanufactured turbo to buy from turbo city and also have been planning my removal and installation job. Everything you wrote sounds perfect to me but like I questioned, the intake manifold is right in the way of the top of the turbo mounting bolts. The keepers for the turbo mounting bolts break off you say when you remove them?? Where did you buy the replacement keepers, upper turbo mounting gasket, oil line and other 2 gaskets from?? and how much where they?? Right now my remanufactored turbo will cost me 475 dollars that's why I am curious what everything else cost. I want to buy everything ahead so I don't end up running around town to find little things during the installation. Thanks for your input.

> From the top I removed the
> 1) the heat shield on the master cylinder
> 2) the Intake air assembly( black on my car.
> It comes off easily just a couple of clamps
> and screws.

> From under the car I removed the exhaust
> pipe and cat because I could not get the
> down tube off easily.

> I used a screw driver to open the nut
> keepers on the nuts on the turbo and removed
> the nuts. You may need a can of liquid
> wrench because the nuts were rusted on mine.

> I removed the four nuts holding the turbo,
> the oil feed and return lines and dropped
> the whole assembly and removed it from
> below. Since I had the down tube on it it
> took a little shifting and twisting of the
> assembly to get it past steering parts.

> Be careful when removing the the hose that
> feeds the intake manifold from the turbo, I
> ripped mine and had to buy a new one from
> the dealer.

> I put on a new O2 sensor,(easy to get off
> with the down tube on the bench.

> With all new gaskets for the turbo, I put it
> back on from the top, put new keepers on for
> the nuts, bolted the nuts and put the down
> tube on from under the car. This might be a
> good time to check for leaks around the
> gasket where the turbo attaches to the
> exhaust manifold. I thought I had everything
> tight and set but I found that if you don't
> snug up all nuts the same amount and then
> tighten them diagonally( TL-BR, TR-BL)you
> might have leaks.

> I also put on a new oil feeder line , cause
> the car has 165K on it and I am not sure if
> it had ever been replaced.

> Rebolted the exhaust on( new gasket for the
> cat), remounted the intake manifold and
> reinstalled the heat shield.

> It took me about 6 hours of actual working
> time and 2 days worth of running down parts
> that I did not buy when I got the reman
> turbo to replace the old one.

> I would suggest you buy ( in addition to the
> turbo:
> Minimum
> New gaskets for the turbo intake( exhaust
> manifold) and exhaust( down tube)
> New keepers for the turbo nut attachment(
> they have a tendency to break off when
> opening them)
> New gasket for the cat( which ever end you
> can get loose)from the exhast pipe or
> muffler.

> Optional
> New O2 Sensor
> New oil line feeder tube(may not be optional
> based on your turo mfg. warranty.)
> New turbo to intake hose.

> The new turbo brought new life into the car.

> Good luck, and if you need any more detail,
> please feel free to let me know.
> [email protected]
 
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