ZCar Forum banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Yeah I've posted this once, but didn't get much help. Thought I'd try again.

Okay so I've been having quite a few problems with my Z these last few months and its really pissing me off. I've replaced the AFM twice and I'll be going to my 3rd one here soon. The AFM went bad in June and I bought a remanufactured one from O'Reilly which went bad in about a month. I returned that AFM and bought another remanufactured one from Advance Auto Parts which just went bad today. I can't rev past 2,000 rpm so I know its bad again. Could something be causing the AFM's to go bad, or is it possible that I've just bought two shitty ones?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,710 Posts
make sure your connector is good mine was bad and caused the same problem if i would push down on the connector then it would work and would rev past 2000 but as soon as i took pressure off of it it wouldent rev past 2000 - just make sure all the pins are clean and that they all line up well - my problem was one or two of the pins in the afm were slightly bent and kinda pushed the connector wierd

probably not your prob but worth a try i guess
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
548 Posts
I agree. Your car is pushing teens-twenty years old. Check the connectors first on anything electrical on a japanese car. They use some low grade metal for some of their contacts. Get yourself some dielectric grease. Autoparts store should have it or the electrical section at Lowes/Home Depot. It comes in a small tube and looks kinda like vaseline. When you get a connector cleaned up or replaced just smear a little of this grease on the contacts. It helps make a better connection, repels moisture and stops the corrosion. Works great for all the light bulbs in the car too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I'll try cleaning the connector, but I really don't think thats it. I think something is causing the air flow meters to go bad. The two that I replaced worked fine for about a month and then screwed up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
548 Posts
This is a long shot. Is it possible your battery is marginal or not getting fully charged because of a bum alternator? Some electrical components can be fussy about the voltage and amperage they operate with. Sorry I don't have a solid answer for you. Let us know what happens, good or bad.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thats possible I suppose, I have noticed the voltage meter jumping. I'll see a signifigant drop when I shift into gears, then it usually pops back up. It's an automatic.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Might try and buy a higher quality part........i would stick with a quality remanufacuted one or a genuine nissan part........that could be part of your problem
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
548 Posts
I've heard about the backfire. I guess it breaks that glow wire in the AFM. That extra gas has to go somewhere. If it gets in the intake it could leak past the rings and get into the crankcase. The 240Z's had the fuel pump driven off the timing chain on front of engine. The diapragm would dry out and crack or get a hole. Result was the fuel pump would pump gas into the crankcase and starve the carbs. It made the car run like crap. Not to mention thinning the oil out. I bought (2) 1971's around 1982/83 with pretty low miles. People had them for sale because they thought the engines were shot. I put them on the car trailer, took them home, changed the fuel pump and the oil. They ran fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Yeah thanks guys I just bought a new fpr and I'm going to replace it this week, hopefully it fixes the problem. I'll let you know if it does.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top