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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm having serious difficulty removing the pin holding together the joint between the rear strut and the lower control arm. My car is a '73 240. It is the design with the extra restrictor pin mounted in the strut. The ba&@#ard is on tight and even after heating it still won't come loose. The end is starting to mush over from the mallet blows and I can't see where a puller could be used. Any suggestions would be great.

SpencZ
 

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Try soaking it overnight in penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench or WD40. Can you still get the nut to screw onto
the pin? If so, try stacking up washers over the pin so that when you tighten the nut it bears on the washers (which bear on the control arm) and pulls on the pin. You risk stripping the threads but at this point, I think the pin is trash anyway.

good luck, ross
 

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SpencZ,
I went through this. Ross gives good advice about the penetrating oil. I did this and I rented a 5# sledge hammer from the local rental yard. I then took a good drift pin and with only about 5 good knocks I pushed it through to the other side. I feel your pain though, prior to this I had spent the better part of 5 hours knocking on that thing with a regular hammer!
 

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It you are trying to remove rear strut thing, its easier to remove the entire control are by the differential. I did this about two weeks ago and asked the same thing in this group and everyone said that if your lucky enough to get it out, you probably wont get it back in and I think they said it was expensive to replace since you end up smashing it so quickly pulling it out.
Quick question, since i have a 73 240z, i was just wondering if you have a rear sway bar, I thought it was odd that my car doesn't have one, but there is a place to mount it in there control arm.
 

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This can be done without damage!

Remove the control arm and strut tower as a unit if you haven't already. One thing there is not really ample room to do this kind of work under the car without hours of frustration. Take the assembly to a machine shop and have them press the pins out hydrolically. Not only can they do it in minutes they shouldn't beat up the pins and thread. I did mine to replace all the bushings and happened to know a good machinist. He made a pin from scrap steel rod that was slightly smaller than the pins diameter. He drilled and tapped one end of the rod and screwed it onto my pin to protect the threads.

This should not be expensive and most shops are very easy to work with. Even if it cost $50 to do both arms and put them back together with the new bushings, which is a pain in itself you have to ask how much is 8 hours of your time worth attempting to do this with the wrong equipment and possibly damaging hard to find parts.

Good Luck
Matt
 

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I was forced to cut the pin between the gaps, then have the middle section of the pin pressed out of the strut assembly with a 25 ton press. Of course, I will be ordering new pins soon. If you are forced to come to this point, I can e-mail you more detail if you want.

Scott
 

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I'd agree with a cross between matt and ross: soak the pin in PENETRATING OIL and use a hydraulic press to push it out.
with a big enough press, you don't need the penn oil. A GREAT penetrating oil for this is something called KROIL (Sili-Kroil is the name on the can, but everybody I know calls it 'Kroil') It comes in an orance can, and works wonders! WD40 never worked too well as a penn-oil, I guess because it's primary function was Water Displacement (i.e. WD). "WD40: Another benefit of our space program." Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for all the info. I've already got the whole rear end apart so things are already looking good. Unfortunately, the pins are deteriorated to the point where the threads on the pins are junk. I'm not really worried about destroying the things either. I'm doing a full restoration on the car and everything that isn't 100% is getting replaced. In responce to MattZ's question, My car doesn't have a rear sway bar either. I did some reading up on this and it turns out that the rear sway bar induces some oversteer which at least for myself, is not desireable. There are mounting pockets for the sway bar but I don't believe they were std. equipment. I'll give the suckers a good soak and a thorough beating. Thanks again.

SpencZ
 

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<b>RE: Removing Rear Strut Joint Pin</b>

Ive heard that you can remove the four bolts on the axle flange and the 3 bolts on the strut tower and the whole a arm swings down enough to change the strut. Is this true? If it is this seems significantally easier.
 

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Yes adam it is true!!

I did this to mine a couple years ago when after trying hopelessly to remove THE PIN!!!!!! Just be careful not to scratch your paint on the fender up. Later, norm
 
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