Does anybody have any tips on welding pieces to the car in strategic places to strengthen it? I'm in the process of rebuilding my car and will have a welder handy. I'm thinking V8 in the future so I'd like to have a SOLID car. Thanks in advance.
> Does anybody have any tips on welding pieces
> to the car in strategic places to strengthen
> it? I'm in the process of rebuilding my car
> and will have a welder handy. I'm thinking
> V8 in the future so I'd like to have a SOLID
> car. Thanks in advance.
Check out the url listed. It has a alot to do with convertibles but there is a pretty good section about strengthening the body.
I had a 74 260 that had a chevy V8 with no frame rail reinforcing. I raced the car in SCCA soloII FMod with no problems for over two years. The key was that the original motor mounting points were used allowing engine torq to go the front suspention subframe instead of the unibody. By the way the V8 car is long gone but my basicly stock 75 is still moving me happily down the road.
Hey petfish, why did you let go of the v8? What tranny did you run? how did you do in scca racing? what tranny did you run? what rearend? any u-joint problems? what about cooling? any info would help.
> I had a 74 260 that had a chevy V8 with no
> frame rail reinforcing. I raced the car in
> SCCA soloII FMod with no problems for over
> two years. The key was that the original
> motor mounting points were used allowing
> engine torq to go the front suspention
> subframe instead of the unibody. By the way
> the V8 car is long gone but my basicly stock
> 75 is still moving me happily down the road.
> Hey petfish, why did you let go of the v8?
> What tranny did you run? how did you do in
> scca racing? what tranny did you run? what
> rearend? any u-joint problems? what about
> cooling? any info would help.
Has anybody used the Buick/Rover 215ci aluminium
V8 in a conversion? I've heard that they dont weigh nearly as much as a Chevy or Ford V8.
> I have used the JTR conversion manual to install a .030 over 350 SB Chevy (355ci) in my 76 280Z 2+2. The driveshaft flange adapter from Stealth (available through JTR) is an excellent piece which permits use of a shortened/balanced chevy driveshaft (I used a shortened Vega unit for its constant diameter). The recommended parts in the JTR would be quite good, but I assembled mine from parts on hand. Lakewood scattershield/bellhousing containing a 12 clutch/flywheel assy. Saginaw 4spd with Hurst Comp Plus shifter. The clutch is actuated by a Wilwood 7/8 master cylinder which is a direct bolt in swap (minor shaving on lower right aft corner of side mount for brake vacuum booster clearance. The stock slave cylinder works quite well when bled right side up then tab mounted upside down. Just install a 3/16 brake line flare nut on the stock clutch line with a double flaring tool and necessary adapter to master (available at parts/hardware store). gotta Go.
> P.S. My 355 ci Datolet is my daily driver here in Colorado Springs. The engine comes in over 300 hp. Mega torque. The rearend is holding up just fine. No reinforcing in my car. I started with a cancer/rust free California car. mikey
I got rid of my V8Z on a trade for an 86 vette convertible I didn't mind letting go since I still had a 75 Z. For the rest of your questions I ran a 700R4 (for the lower first gear) and the stock rearend 3:54 (car was auto to begin with). For the radiator I used a Motorsport V8 radiator with no problems. Never experiance any drive line problems the two years I drove it daily and race for two seasons. I ran Takico Illumina adjustible shocks and Motorsport front springs and big swaybar. Leave the rear stock or do away with the rear sway bar all together for racing. Strut braces are a must for autocrossing. I was competitive with most classes but couldn't hold a candle to a well driven MR-2 turbo.