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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just rebuilt the motor in my 82' 280
now it will not start!
all the parts are new that could be replaced
IT JUST turns over & over it will crank
for a second, but then dies.
I put a 418 Lift, 300 Dur. CAM in it and shaved the head, it has the stock intake.
>Could this be the timing chain off a notch
or a proplem with the ECU of FI????
Im getting fuel & a spark

Thanks,
 

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Some things to check:

Fuel pump; make sure you have adequate fuel supply both during cranking and running.

Make sure that the spark is good w/the key in the run position. It sounds wierd, but I have seen this happen. Spark is good while craking, but not when the key is in the run position. This also goes for the fuel pump and ecu power relay.

Also, do you have enough fuel to run the motor w/the mods you have done? What have you done to the F/I system compensate for the upgrades you have done? You may need to recalibrate the AFM or run a higher fuel pressure.

Good luck!!! I hate to see a brand new motor that won't start. I am working on a 510 w/this same situation. No spark. The points had a little bit of oil on them and wouldn't work. Owner couldn't figure it out. Unfortunately, it's not so easy in your case. Let us know!!!

Ian
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
3 Words, timing, timing, timing.
1. Make sure your cam is lined up properly on the timing chain.
2. Make sure your distributor is in the right place.
3. Typically you only have 10deg. of adjustment by moving the distributor. You must pull the oil pump, move the distributor locking pin, and reinsert the oil pump to gain more timing correction.
4. I'd bet money your problem is #3. If you are 2 gear teeth off, your car won't start.
 

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The most common problem on startup is getting the distributor spindle 180 degrees off.

Make sure the engine is at TDC, both #1 cam lobes pointing straight up, and the dist. rotor pointing at 11o'clock.

Bryan
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I agree with mike

> 3 Words, timing, timing, timing.
> 1. Make sure your cam is lined up properly
> on the timing chain.
> 2. Make sure your distributor is in the
> right place.
> 3. Typically you only have 10deg. of
> adjustment by moving the distributor. You
> must pull the oil pump, move the distributor
> locking pin, and reinsert the oil pump to
> gain more timing correction.
> 4. I'd bet money your problem is #3. If you
> are 2 gear teeth off, your car won't start.

When I repaced my head gasket on my 79 and put it all back together (being very careful to everything lined back the way they were) my car would start, but no power. I spent several hundred dollars and many hours on injectors, fuel pump, distributor, fuel filter ect, finally took it to a mechanic and after trying a few other things tried the timing and sure enough good as new.
 

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Re: I agree with mike

Distributer drive gear installation is critical.
First, alighn the timing mark on the pully with the tdc mark with the nr one cylinder on firing stroke. There is a dot stamped on the collar of the distributer drive gear that must be lined up with the vent hole on the neck of the oil pump. Make sure that the oil pump is alighned perfectly with its mating surface on the engine. Use one of the long mounting bolts in one of the holes for a short bolt. If everything is lined up correctly, when you insert the oil pump and shaft into the engine the drive gear will be in the correct position. The drive lobe on the distributer is off center on the shaft so the distributer will only mate with the shaft in one position. Set the distributer about half way in the adjustment slot and tighten until you can just move the distributer. The car should start and allow you to set the timing correctly. Hope this helps
 

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Check a few things first

This is much easier to check.
#1, that the rotor is IN the distributor, not on the fender. (seen this before)
#2, Your wires are in the correct firing order on the dist. cap, CCW!
#3, if these did not work and you have fuel and spark, pull the bolt that retains the distributor to the little timing plate. This lets you rotate the distributor around and around without moving the oil pump shaft yet. Have someone turn the car over while you hold and turn the dist. Do this until it starts and runs. If this does not work, it is not your ignition timing most likely. The dist. drive shaft is a pain to keep trying to line up, esp. if it is not even that. I would bet that it is off 180 degrees also, easy to do. If you get it started, and running decent, figure out where the timing really is, advanced too much or retarded, and then change it in the drive shaft. Don't bother touching it though until then, too much of a pain. have to remove the bottom cover, sway bar body mounts, etc.
If it is none of these, let us know.
Joshua L.
 
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